If you really want to make several, rather than printing the whole part, I'd go about this by printing the gauge area and grafting it to a vent from a junkyard.Then make a silicone mold from that master and cast resin copies

So, many years later...the pics are back.Also, Don't use a pickle fork to remove the tie rod ends unless you plan to replace them. There are countless tutorials online about how to do this other ways. I like to flip the nut and apply some pressure from below with a jack then hit the side of...

You're unlikely to get the result you want out of 3D printed parts. FDM printers (like the ultimaker won't give you nice surface finish needed, and SLA printers use materials that don't tend to have great mechanical properties for automotive longevity particularly when it comes to temperature...

No...I was under the impression you were just waiting to hear from them regarding shipping. I was just interested in potential sources in Germany.Did you need some help with them or...?

Yup, thanks.

Can you let me know who you're contacting in Germany?

Surprisingly no. I just checked my notes (I've been working on a sunroof fix). The 99 I was looking at was a 300m.The avenger with the door vent was a 2000, sorry

It was a 99, but I didn't note the trim level, sorry.

Of course. Photos should be attached.Also, As I mentioned, if Germany doesn't come through, I'm happy to take delivery of the part on Ebay and bring it over in September to get around the US only shipping issue.

Was at the yard today and managed to grab a grey drivers side vent with screw bosses and no cracks. Passenger side was unfortunately cracked.Came off of an avenger. Part number on the part itself is MR190592, same as those from your 97 spyder donor...Mopar parts giant also lists them as...

From some google searching, mitsubishipartssource.com (part number search on top right) seems to have these parts, at least it shows them being available.If they really do have them, I'd be happy to take shipment of these in the states, and send them over to you when I'm in Germany in...

Driving a 2g, even with a properly depowered rack is no picnic at low speeds, but something you can get certainly away with for road-racing (not so much autocross). Are there cars from the 60's and 70's that are worse? Sure, but that's not really the point. Couple the effort with the horrendous...

Not sure I was clear. I meant only the currently plastic door handle part could be made as three pieces. The two arms could for example be easily cnc cut, with the now smaller and more simply shaped handle portion missing the arms could be more easily cast, and then the three parts tig welded in...

Ok, then what you originally wrote is correct, but...they may have said it won't be harder to turn, and it may in fact not be immensely harder to turn, but it will be somewhat, that's just not how physics works.A larger pinion gear means more linear motion of the rod ends per degree of...

Very excited to see these active threads. I just moved back from 7 years in Germany and I've got my 98 Talon AWD in the garage needing a bunch of TLC and was getting disheartened at all the things that are no longer easy to find.Don't know if you considered it at all in terms of the door...

I'd be interested in a manual rack.Just a comment though. Based on your description in the initial post, sounds like the ratio would be worse for a manual rack (less turning for more steering angle --> less turns lock-to-lock --> less mechanical advantage -->harder to turn)Surely you meant...

This cover: IMC 103 23006 066 Oil Pump | eBayFrom lots and lots of searching, for someone who has ecmlink is using a G4CS block with a 1g head in a 2g...This seems to be the right front case / oil pump. Still need 1g everything at that point, like oil pan, oil filter housing etc, but...

"worked at a mitsubishi dealership" :rolleyes:Humbly asking, what does working at a dealership have to do with knowledge about modding cars? I'm sure some guys that work at dealerships are into cars and may mod their own or others for fun just like the rest of us, but training has he gotten...

Thanks for moving it. Its all been taken care of.In the interest of people having things to search for and find results.The clunk was just in the passanger axle not being all the way in the carrier bearing.The engine movement is from one of the motor mounts.and yes i need to fix...

Okay, So I've got this 97 Camry project all back together and i've got a clunk when shifting from D to R and from R to D. Also, when I shift D to R to P, it grinds going into park.Looking for what the issue could be here. The torque converter and a little of the transmission was apart...

once the converter is installed and the transmission is bolted up to the engine. Is there any way to check if everything is installed correctly?try and crank the motor by hand, if that works, step one is good, right, not going to kill the pump?can any information be gained by moving the...

Well. It wasn't the torque converter. at least not directly.Heres oil pump housing on the transmission:heres the drive gear:and heres a little bit easier to see those cracks are pretty serious business.and a shot of the two DSM's in the driveway outside. The...

alright guys. Maybe you can bail me out of this one.I rebuilt a toyota camry motor which i had some questions in another thread. Got the transmission bolted on, installed everything, and the engine wouldn't crank.It was having an issue with the alarm, but then as my buddy was trying to...

yeah, the 2.2 is the motor of sludge. Hopefully, the smog guys wont be able to tell a thing.thats the plan anyway.The only thing to figure out is where to put the knock sensor, and if i use the celica head, there is a bolt hole missing but its just to mount something. hello firewall...

yeah, its a 2.2.The motors i guess have a lot of lubrication issues (especially driving by chicks, no offense, who don't check fluid levels or take care of oil leaks).I think ive got a possible solution worked out for using the entire celica engine. I think i've found a way to mount...

Hey guys,Im good for now on DSM's, i got my talon running and my buddy just picked up a 91nt eclipse.the toyota guys are very non-responsive on this one, so here's the challenge:I have a dilema. My friend toasted a connecting rod and crank journal in her 97 camry (5sfe 4 cyl)...

Getting Your Revolving debts (credit cards, etc) to under 50% of the available balance is a good start. under 35% is best, but under 50% should work well. As soon as those balances are reported to the credit agency (may happen monthly), your score should get pushed up 3-5 points per credit...

well heres the scoop:I have been noticing a solid clunk in the steering/suspension which i believe is comming from the front right side. (98 tsi awd). Upon inspection, there are little bits of grease on the hub etc around the CV joint, so i thought it was that. well, after pulling the wheel...

running 235/40's would change the diameter more than the 225s and that seems like it would make the rim width worse in terms of being a little undersized.....minimum rim width recommended for 235/40's is 8".well. ive had 235/45/17s on the 17x7s for years. if running 225s makes more sense...

so. maybe this was a bad thing to have done but i did it at the tire tech's advice and it was before i knew anything about cars really.i have a set of 17x7 adr wheels (that i don't even remember what model) that are wrapped in 235/45/17 dayton daytona tires (yeah i know). they were on my 96...

I know they will work fine and I know they will save money, Im just curious as to what the advantage would be so I can decide if its worth it(although, I will probably go with the weiscos)the rods Id be using: ESP Forged Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Here is the part number...

Like the topic says, Im building a 2.4L g4cs 6 bolt. Im trying to decide on pistons and rods.I was pretty sure I was going to do a weisco/eagle combination, but a local guy tells me JE has redesigned their pistons and they are now superior to the weiscos and don't have the whole mess with...

It certainly appears to be a separate piece to me.....If this isn't what you meant, im fine with that.Notice the two different colors and the separation that makes it look like two pieces.Also note the hole on the side which also can be seen from the other side (which makes me think...

Im trying to remove the counterweight on the transmission without just cutting it off to test the car with a blank aluminum spacer.It appears to be held on by a pin, but before I hammer too much on this thing, If anyone knows what holds the weight to the shaft, let me know.I have a...

remove the spark plugs, then theres nothing keeping the pressure in, and if it is due to compression, it will stop resisting.

i used the end of a balance shaft with some electrical tape. the idea is just to hold it in the right place while they are attached.i would suggest you find yourself a true clutch alignment tool, but its not really necessary in my opinion.(i couldn't find one so i just improvised)

yeah, the transmission is really the problem in this situation. I was thinking about the geometry of spacing the wheels out just a bit to give more room for the angle. I think were pretty much screwed on the turning radius, but i'm still looking into it.Im also very much looking at...

2nd. And while your at it, make the turning radius just a bit better :) but don't hit the transmission. (im actually semi-working on this right now)

well, the pistons were in the engine, so they were braced against the crankshaft by the caps, but i didn't have to hit them too hard. just some decent force with a regular hammer. no sledge or anything.

i just disassembled an engine (granted i didn't care about any of the parts) but i just used a block of wood and a hammer to take out the rod bolts....worked fine (maybe it shouldn't have)

yeah, the piston won't clear going out the bottom, but thanks for the advice. I managed to get the ring past the bottom so it bent and then scratched the cylinder going all the way back up. :notgood:engines apart though, time to get it checked out. probably need another one because of...

i understand about the aluminum. The block is down to:block, crank, rods, pistons, and all the caps etc holding these together.problem is, i can't tap the pistons out yet because of all the buildup on the cylinder walls (don't wanna fubar the cylinders more than they already are)...

don't they usually remove the pistons etc before hot tanking?is there anything wrong with taking the block with crank, rods and pistons and hot tanking it?i figure any shop can handle hot tanking it without messing it up right, even a non-dsm specific shop right.i hear oven cleaner...

pulled a g4cs out of a 90 sonata from the junkyard but the cylinder walls have some really stubborn crud on them (probably a mix of oil. carbon and rust) that wont come off. Its not just surface crud really, its kinda built up and i wanna get it cleaned out before i disassemble it (really don't...

got hit in the drivers side door by a older bmw going about 45. pushed my door in to almost where my leg was but didnt hot me. Damage only to the door and rocker panel right infront of it.all four of us got out without a scratch. I was || this close to killing the ***ch who hit me when...

^^^ amkes me wish i had a white car to do that with. that looks really really nice.silly black cars.....(i think im going to attempt something similar in the tan to match the rest inside..)

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147353&highlight=joint+recalldefinately contact them. post and update on the situation.

not totally sure but im pretty darn sure its too hot for that.

wow....your car must have a huge body lift to fit 3 foot piping on there.....must have meant 3" not 3'that asside, I would check out possibly replacing the muffler.....you probably don't want to have it neck down right there. I wouldn't throw that on, it seems silly to have a full 3" very...