Looks like your car begin to have a lots of potential.
I think that i'm jealous of your build.
Really like the way your car turns since the beginning.
The rpf1 are bad ass and the stance of your wheel is top notch! Maybe with a new paint...;)
And do you like your zestino tire?
220 degree is very hot, when i was on track day, i experienced overheating, and the number of knocks were growing in proportion with higher temperatures.
Before ducting, due to my overheating problem at the track, my initial plan was to put an aluminum rad and 2 flex-a-lite fan behing the rad, because i know when they're placed in front, they become restrictive when in movement.BUT:
After some research, i decide to go the ''cheap way'' and put...
Some pictures of my ducting, i have a front section in front of my fmic and a rear section between fmic and rad. Once again, ducting makes BIG difference :sneaky:!Rear section:Front section:With bumper with dremeled holes each side of the missing emblem:When the fan are on, if i...
Also I'm thinking my ecu temp sensor may be reading off. What temp are the stock radiator fans supposed to come on at? My temp seems to be at 209 when they come on. ( Running stock fan control and sensor/switch)Mine come at 194 ? Very high compare to mine.
Maybe you need some ducting between your rad and
your fmic to improve your airflow to the rad.I had similar problem, except when on the track, i wasn't able to do more than 3 laps before overheating.
My temp was around 200 on cruising before ducting, and now it's around 176 (datalogger) and i...
I had hard times to adjust my idle even with a new isc motor, until i disconnected my coolant hoses in the throttle body (my summer car since 2006) and put the fiav block off plates:https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18576Idle is rock solid now! No surge or stall anymore.
Before somebody else post this before me:). And like pauleyman say: maintenance first!http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/
Wow, I love the guys that are not affraid to try something new, instead of staying in comfort of the already seen!!!
Big, big thumbs up :thumb:.
Would like to know your impression when you will try it!
I vote for continuing your 1g, an nice clean strong 1g for the street, the drag , and the show:hellyeah:. I know you can't perform well in all, but you already know your 1g.
Yes it's fixable, but:
Just to give you an idea; Two years ago I've just hit a dear with my VW jetta (1 front fender, 1 light, 1 hood, no rad or intercooler damage,no frame damage, no sterring components damage).
That cost $4000 (in canadian), i'm almost sure that your's will be more expensive...
It was just the lines.
I got my brake lines when i bought the Cobra big brake kit. They send me banjo style for the front, and oem style for the rear. And it was plug and play.
Look at the detailled image on this store:https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19535&cat=1835&page=1The rear brake lines seems to be different from awd to fwd.
I have the rear awd kit,so, 1 male and 1 female (x2) on each side.
Hope this help.
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/mits-partsMaybe this company could help you.
Your wife is very lucky! Nice looking car!
I bought my tranny from them, very satisfied.
If I remember correctely, When my o2 died, i got no cel on my 1g.
But i have an o2 gauge and data logger, so I saw that my car was running way to rich.
I give you the ecu pin out for 1ghttp://www.zeitronix.com/Products/O2Meter/O2Meter.shtml
Or
http://projectzerog.com/wiring_info.shtmlSave...
I fought for years with a problem that look like that, I changed EVERYTHING, including the motor, and the problem was a collapsed flex pipe for me.
I didn't take a picture of my flex pipe, but that was only three quarter of an inch of opening. So the car lost all is power.
Since then, my car is...
If that can do a difference, my bro have forge diverter valve in is vw mk3 swapped 1.8t, and nothing bad to say about this. But i'm sure that the turbosmart Kompact, is a great unit too. Choice is yours :)
When i got my head rebuilded, i has hesitation problem. I went with my car to the shop that did my head work and they made CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTING. Ended up by replacing all the lifters.
Heres a explanation how to do it here:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/cylinder-leakdown-tester/
Hope this help
You can't go wrong with RTM kit, Maybe this kit will allow you to save on the shipping charge, because your in canada.
I have the gates belts in my car and i'm very happy with it.
Your story is really touching me... I have my 1g since 1998, in 2002 this car became a lawn decoration for 4 years (for studies mostly).
After that a start to modifying it or repair it. 10 years later (today) i still have the same car, and i decided recently to be part of the dsmtuner...
What's your goal for this car? What you want to do? (street,drag,race)?
Tell me more
The first tips, like everyone on this site will tell you is: maintenance.
Change all fluids if you don't know the history of you car, check/replace all the timing components.
Check control arm, subframe, ball...
They tends to leaks in no time with after market heavy clutch.My car has act 2600 clutch with fidanza flywheel
SS line
OEM MC AND SC
Speed bleeder valve
And ... lastly, i have to put extended slave cylinder push rod...
Nice to see a nice 1g back to the road again. Reminds me when i decided to put back my talon on road 10 years ago.
I just changed EVERYTHING since in this car.
Good luck with your build!!
Looks like you got a well equipped car.
For the tuner, get the link (most flexible for tuning),
When i buy pieces,
Extreme psi = competitive price and great shipping cost.JNZ = If you look for oem, they are the best.Rtm = because i'm in canada LOL and I got my cobra front big brake from...
Understand too well whats you are saying, I know barely NOBODY that know this kind of car in my area. Even the chrysler dealer where i originaly bought it, is useless.
When i go to the drag, I'm the only one, when i go to lapping: i'm the only one, And when i'm in the street, i'm the only one...
If you push the clutch when you decel, is the noise goes away too? My drive shaft resonating and i got strange clicking noise too on decel when i let off gas, not each time, but sometimes.
Maybe my combo of lightweight aluminum flywheel , aluminum driveshaft and poly bushing motor mount doesn't...