Yea ive asked around so far and the zip ties method seem to work pretty well if youre not touching the timing, I should be ok with just replacing the head gasket...hopefully
I already have ARP studs installed and did the whole timing job .Really ? I just watched a video and this guy zip tied the time belt to the cam gear after rotating them to tdc , can i do just that and put them back the way it was originally ?
So i had the timing done a while back at the shop without replacing the head gasket and now it's blown, rookie mistake, i should've placed it along with everything else when it was off. My question is can i take off the head and replace the head gasket without messing up the timing mark ? Do i...
Theres no spec sheet, the guy who sells it owns a shop call RIX racing in WV . What do i look for when buying a used built bottom end if the seller cant provide receipt for it ?
I found a fresh rebuild 6 bolt short block for $1500 obo
OEM Crank
Ross 8.5:1 Pistons
Eagle rods
MHI Pump
BSE Delete
complete deck down
I know its not a 2.3L stroker but what do you think ?
I dont know, its hard for me to try and piece a kit together since i barely know anything about engine upgrade . The easiest option for me right now is to buy the kit from MAP and a 4g64 crank and save up some cash to build the transmission and im good to go, i hope..
I know what you mean but i rarely go over 7000 rpm even when i race against people on the street and the closest drag strip is over an hour away from me so 2.3L stroker fit my driving style a lot more than a high rev 2.0L.
I guess i'll go with the MAP stroker kit and a 4g64 crank , that should...
Yea i just want to have a respectable street power for the car without having to hit the redline all the damn time lol . So is it ok to buy used parts to save some money or should i buy new ?
Im asking for suggestion on which parts to get, i know what the differences between the 2.0 and 2.3 , i just have no idea what to buy . I dont wanna waste thousands of dollars just to get it done wrong . Also looking for a reputable shop around NJ to build it for me.
I hardly race and i dont really rev past 7k anyway, for me its just unnecessary to hit the top speed, i have a motorcycle for that. My main goal is to hit full boost as early as my big 16g but with a much bigger turbo , and have fun driving it to work whenever i can thats all.
Should i try to...
Looking for recommendation to build my motor , i did researched but its been so long now so i was wondering if theres anything new for our car or people still use the same parts to build it. Also im from NJ, is anyone in the same area that can recommend me a good reliable shop to build the motor...
So let me get this straight. What i should do right now is to get the filter off and see if i can still save it, if not then go from there i guess . I honestly don't know how to flare lol
Does anyone know any other way to get this thing out ? I used pb blast and tried to loosen it with a flare wrench but somehow the freaking bolt was stripped...Can i still save it do i have to replace the fuel line ?
Any help is appreciated
Take it out and bring it to auto zone to have it checked. I bought mine there last time and had to return it for a different one right after because it was defected smh
UPDATE : Took the car to the shop to have everything checked out and it was the carrier bearing. Luckily the driveshaft is still in good condition, guess im still lucky haha
Upon inspecting the CV axle, the boots are still good. I didnt see any leaks or anything like that. How do you check the drive shaft ? By pulling it or twisting it ? If i still cant figure out whats wrong with it then ill bring it to the shop and let them find out whats going on and try to fix...
Lmao that sounds like me tbh, id rather do the work myself i could but gotta save myself at least one or two days in case anything goes wrong and it always does with dsm . The car is still run and drive perfectly if i dont go fast anyway so it can wait till sunday
If its only little then i wouldnt mind but its been raining all day and when i mentioned drive way it is still at the street level and full of puddles , it isnt high off the ground lol. AND another thing im not an experience backyard mechanic so it takes time for me to fix it :idontknow:
The weather in NJ aint helping, it keeps raining on my days off and i have no garage so i do all my work on the drive way which isnt possible when it rains haha. I gotta get this done before i can move on and start rebuilding my transmission and motor. :banghead::banghead:
For the last time , i dont need to balance my tires . I know exactly how it is to have unbalanced tires smh. Ive been trying to jack the car up to take a look but its been raining and works been busy so hopefully i'll have some times to spare this sunday to take some pics and have you guys help...
I'll check the cv axle and bearing and see whats going on. The car only got 90k miles i dont think its the shock, ive driven cars with bad shocks before and this doesnt feel like it
It is AWD but what i dont get it how i can floor it and redline the damn thing with no problem but as soon as i hit over 55-60mph it start to vibrates and get worse under load. And once again WHEELS arent BENT , ROTORS arent WARPED , TIE RODS are SOLID , BALL JOINTS are NEW. I just hope its...
I can control it if the cars going faster than 60mph. I can launch the car with no problem but as soon as the speed is higher than 60mph it starts to shakes like hell if i try to floor it.
Thanks for the help but i wasnt able to jack it up and check it out due to the rain so ill have to wait...
Wheels are balanced. The steering wheel is solid , the vibration intensifies as the car goes past 60mph and its the whole car , it vibrates a hell lot more if i floor it just to give you an idea. And wheels are not bent, tires are new too, they're stretched tires but thats not the problem. The...
Car drives fine if i stay under 60 but as soon as i speed up and go over 60mph it start shaking pretty bad , its more on the right front side . The faster it goes the more the car shakes , id say violently.
Things to be noted : i replaced the ball joints and the car shakes a bit less after but...
It really depends on the state and area youre in too. But if youre looking for a clean dsm with no rust, stock or modded will run you at least $6000 where im from and theyre still rare especially the ones with no rust lol