After a very long hiatus today marked a truly significant day in the car's history.After being put into storage 3 years ago due to critically dangerous amounts of rust in the shock towers, two weeks ago with the help of JasonDSM the GSX and a donor car I purchased were towed to a local shop in...
The bolt threads stripped.In my personal experience every time a thread strips on a bolt it's because the bolt wasn't designed to handle high torque specs. I can back this up because when I use a bolt of higher torque specs it does just fine. The threads were perfectly okay and the class 11...
Oh trust me, I know I will ;)I've had my GSX for almost 5 years and it was my first turbo AWD car that started as a daily and then became a project. Since buying a WRX as a daily a couple years ago I fought every single day not to wind more power into it and instead to focus on reliability...
Not to clog up this thread but a wideband o2 sensor wouldn't be a bad thing to have either. I run one in both my cars both as a safety measure and for logging purposes :DAlso also I'd consider running an electronic boost gauge rather than an analog one. Again, I have one in both of my cars...
11Well, they have an '11' stamped onto the head of the boltUpdate:JNZ bolt kit arrived today. They're exactly what I need!Threads weren't stripped so the two short class 11 bolts each with a pair of conical washers worked a dream!However for a CX Racing manifold you need 4 short style...
I just ordered an OEM set from JNZ. I'm not sold on ARP's exhaust bolts, though I do like the bolt-head design and I have heard stellar things about their head studs. As I said I completely rounded one of their exhaust bolts off, and a rounded thread won't cause a rounded bolt ime.And I don't...
Hey, if it's pricey but it's worth it then it's not too pricey :DI'll have to cross my fingers and hope that those bolts along with a thread chaser are enough to fix my issue. I really don't want to have to a.) tap new threads or b.) replace the compressor housing :( part of my punishment for...
As with all things DSM both thanks to time and the EPA many aftermarket/ replacement parts are becoming harder and harder to find ....My issue is with the four turbo-to-manifold bolts. I bought a used Evo III Big 16G that came with a CX Racing manifold (not ideal but it was free) and a Megan...
INTERCOOLER NOT INCLUDED. This piping kit is now out of production by Punishment Racing, so this kit is truly rare! It has never left its box and has been kept in a safe and dry location. Comes with all of the piping, silicone hose and clamps you will need to install your own intercooler on your...
This kit is designed to replace the factory plastic kit with a polished aluminium kit that uses silicone hoses and shiny new jubilee clamps. This kit has never been used and never left its original box, and after installing this kit your engine bay will not only look sportier but it will...
Regarding the coolant temp sensor theory,I am using stock injectors so those are all correct, and the Boost reading is staying at -28.9 the whole time during cranking. However when the car was running and driving about a month ago the Boost reading stayed at -28.9 too during startup and...
I have used this MAP sensor before countless times and it has had 0 issues. It's possible that the sensor crapped out on me without my knowledge :idontknow: I don't see any way of logging any MAP values, but the average MAF value was 13.9 Hz, and I have the MDP locked since i am running speed...
The 30A ignition switch fuse and 20A motor fuse are both working. If you pull the IS fuse the car doesn't have any accessory power, after I put it back in the car gets accessory power, and if you pull the motor fuse the CEL doesn't power on for 5 seconds, after I put it back in it does.I...
Can that system be tested or logged without the engine running and with just a key in the ignition and accessory power on? It's a good point though because I've read that the engine sometimes won't run because it will lean/ richen the fuel mixture based on what it thinks the coolant temp is ...
I thought timing too, but none of the timing systems run through the engine bay chassis fuse box :idontknow: I guess I'll start by stripping the chassis loom out of the engine bay and checking over my work with the fuse box. Any tips or tutorials regarding removing the chassis loom? I don't...
I did, yes. I lengthened all of the wires and the large white power wires as well as the large black ground wires have all been connected properly as far as I can see. The only system in the chassis fuse box that would appear to make any difference is the motor (20A engine/ moteur) fuse. Would...
I'm embarrassed that I even have to post about this kind of thing because I have been working on DSMs for 3 years now, but it's blowing my mind that my '98 GSX won't start and I cannot figure out why :banghead:It started and ran totally fine about a month ago. I then did a fusebox relocation...
Definitely some really good tips, Chrysler Kid. I feel as though I rushed the process slightly and it has definitely come back to bite me :oops:As of yesterday nearly every system in the car works. Turning indicators, high beams and low beams, brake lights, ac and radiator fan controls, so I...
Good idea actually. How much does the fuse box differ from 2G to 2G? I'd imagine a Spyder might be a little bit of a different layout, but would the fuse boxes for say an RS or a GST be similar to that in a GSX?
I am attempting a fuse box relocation (emphasis on 'attempting' ROFL ) and I am looking for a wiring diagram for the engine bay fuse box for a '97 GSX. The information I really need is the color codes for each wire and what each wire leads to in the fuse box.I have a few wires that had their...
I removed my factory boost controller altogether and haven't gotten a CEL :idontknow: I didn't want it sitting in the way so I just have the disconnected plug tucked behind a couple other wires and secured
The only reason I have the EBC anymore is as a safety net, so if I want to drive the car in a 'limp mode' of sorts or want to enforce a boost cut-off I can do so without needing to have a laptop by my side. So in short, will the ECU care if it has control over a boost solenoid or not? And what...
I have removed my stock boost controller from my '98 GSX so that I can install a GFB G-Force II in its place. Everything works as it should and the boost controller has been plumbed-in the same way the stock boost controller is, however I am certain that the ECU has no idea what is going on and...
It is AWD, sorry I didn’t include that info :coy: I have the car jacked up and the driveshaft seems to be in the hub still but the rest of the shaft moves freely near the wheel hub. Will I just have to replace the whole driveshaft?
I just finished installing new coilovers, a new sway bar, a big brake kit and replacing my tie rods, sway bar bushings and upper control arm and took the car out for a very slow and very short test drive to check for any loose fittings or bolts/ nuts.Every time I’d turn the wheel whilst moving...
99% sure the front sway bars are identical. My new RM sway bar and the stock AWD sway bar look exactly the same and the RM bar mounts perfectly fine, so you can at least get halfway done if you just buy and install an RM FWD front sway bar. The rear sway bars are significantly different to my...
Wait wait wait ... the sway bars are different between AWD and FWD?? :coy::DIf that's the case, I'll need a rear AWD sway bar since I unknowingly bought the FWD kit. I've heard the front sway bars are essentially the same, however ...
First of all, a big thank you to zilo900 and DGajre777 for their effort in putting together a tech article on completing this install. But if you're like me, things need to be overly simple in order to make sense of what is going on. And this install puzzled me for some 3 weeks ROFLSo if...
Also thank you all for helping! This was driving me insane ROFL all it took was some luck in the end, but I still appreciate the help. I am going to run both RM sway bars and see how it feels, and if possible figure out some way of putting physical values to the difference in feel between a...
Here is a definitive solution on how to do this install. This is it. It shows exactly how the sway bar should be installed and maneuvered every step of the way. If you have any further questions, the details are still fresh in my mind so fire away! :thumb::dsm:
I apologize, I completely misunderstood you. I don't suppose you were able to quantify this difference in any way, were you? If it is true then I will only install the rear sway bar. But maybe I'll have to compare the two and figure it out for myself
I'm a step ahead of you and already have the full RM kit for both the front and rear sway bars specifically because I saw a sizeable group of DSMTuners recommended the RM bars over other brands :thumb: I also have coilovers and a drop in height which will hopefully help the car stay a bit more...
Is it possible to remove that crossmember on its own and keep everything it’s holding-up in tact? I know there’s a way of getting the sway bar back in, I’ve just no clue what it is ... :idontknow: i can’t get the stock sway bar back in either, so I’m clearly just doing something wrong
I know this question has been posted before and I have read many answers regarding this topic, but I have been at this for weeks now and I cannot get my new RM front sway bar to go in. I have attached a link to a video explaining my problem and I just need a set of steps to follow. Other people...
ROFL the stock suspension works well although its rather bouncy and the body rolls as doubleclutch pointed out.I was also making the point that if there is a certain feel you are trying to achieve or are worried about the ride being too harsh or too soft that tires make a considerable...
+1 @doubleclutch : tires make a big difference though which honestly surprised me. I just swapped from my Blizzak winter tyres to my Sumitomo summer tires and the tire noise is a little less than what it was but the handling is definitely more responsive now and the ride is considerably rougher...
If it's puking white smoke out of every orifice then coolant is obviously going places it shouldn't be going ROFL at this point if the problem keeps one-upping you at every step then I would consider taking it to a professional as suggested above or biting the bullet and either replacing the...
You can switch to a Toyota MR-2 power steering setup and that removes the rats nest of plumbing lines you have in that area behind the DS headlight. DSKAGR on this forum did that and his engine bay honestly looks gorgeous :thumb: definitely something I take a lot of notes on since his bay is a...
Jay Racing sells an alternator relocation kit that puts the alternator in the AC pump's position behind the engine and in front of the fire wall. That will clear-up some room for you :thumb:-Relocate the cruise control motor (I have a plan on how to do this) or delete it
-Remove the stock...
An embossed cover would be great, building off of your point ^This screenshot of a 300zx in a video I saw on YouTube shows a gorgeous dashboard with 'Nissan Fairlady Z' embossed onto the leather. You could surely do something similar for a DSM :thumb:
I want to be able to keep a clean and stock look to the car without having to go full carbon fiber fetish with a dashboard ROFLI just don't like seeing the airbag there. Especially since it won't sit flush with the dashboard. I'd hate to spend all the money on a carbon fiber dashboard and then...
A dashboard passenger-airbag delete. Not just a carbon fiber tray or a piece of plastic I stick in there to replace it. An actual delete. Like no more airbag and no more airbag slot. Just dashboard. Long, rolling, smooth, sensual dashboard :thumb:I can't be the only one who is sick of seeing...
The LED bulbs are significantly brighter all around and last longer than HID bulbs. Now that there are LEDs that are reliable and at an affordable price, I can see no reason that anyone should be using HIDs.I've seen people test the differences between HIDs and LEDs and even measured the...