Time to make my shift to being an old man - getting out of the DSM game after about 25 years. I owned this car from June 1997 to May 2007, sold it and left the country. Came back and bought it back 6 years later (April 2013) and have owned it since. I have a detailed Excel sheet of everything...

Early on you mentioned permatex on the oil pan. I believe the permatex should go on the INSIDE of the bolt holes not the outside. If you put it on the outside, oil could be seeping past the oil pan bolts/holes.

Thank you for replying dexterhollad04. I should have been more clear when I typed my message. Because I am using SD and I have a WB, I am already using those three for WB, IAT, and MAP. So I am looking for another option or suggestions regarding how to set it up differently.

Reviving this thread because it seems like a decent place for the discussion. I have a 1G with Link, SD (IAT and MAP) and a WB. Which, I think, means that all of the open pins that I might use to log FP are taken up. Is this correct? Are their any other options that I am not thinking of to log FP?

Not mixing - thoroughly flushed Motul 600. Catching with a proper/official bleeder bottle. It looks as clean coming out as it does going in. 3G BB and MC, stock 1G ABS unit, Evo 8 Brembo front calipers with speed bleeders (but still the hose end is in fluid so they're not doing much of what they...

So I am a bit confused after making the adjustments per your recommendation (thanks by the way!). I made changes that were listed in the manual as "Brake Pedal Check and Adjustment" and it refers to changing the height of the pedal. I wish I would have measured (and I can move things around and...

I just got done doing a 3G MC and BB. I have had a 1G MC and BB with Brembos for a while and it felt like I had to pump the brakes twice with the 1G to get good brake pedal feel. After doing the 3G upgrade, the pedal feels like the first 1/3 to 1/2 of travel doesn't do anything, then it all of a...

Curiosity question: a given caliper will have more leverage the further it is away from the center point of the axis, correct? That rotor will have greater rotational force (more to slow down) because weight is further from the axis? Obviously all other factors would have to be held constant -...

Can you simply pull the fuse for the fans while you adjust the BISS?

Update for those searching or who care: Replaced all belts, pulleys, and water pump, because the mechanical timing was off (which was much easier to actually confirm by removing the lower timing belt cover). It appeared that the intake cam was advanced one tooth too far. My part throttle knock...

Then I guess that isn't from your log then, but from my settings - odd and not what I expected. Sorry - trying to help.

When I open your log and go to "ECU Config (log)" and then go to the "fuel" tab and then go to "calculate," it shows 9.8:1. I believe these are the settings from your log. Check it out and let me know if I am wrong.

Your stoichiometric ratio is set for E85 at 9.8 and you say your running 93 octane. If you switch it to 14.7 (for gasoline if that's what your running) you'll see about a -20% drop in global fuel. That might be a majority of your issue - you might have to re-adjust your deadtime.

...still looking at it...is your O2 sensor dead?

I am going to help a little bit: Check this out and look for 102 as well: Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off. If your really putting your foot down full throttle and ecmlink says you are at 92%, something is wrong there. I don't think that will solve your problem, but if you clear the 101 and...

Reviving an old thread to keep the content located in one spot...After looking for a long time and not wanting to bite the cost of the universal WeatherTech mats, I found some nice winter mats for the 1G on eBay that I am really happy with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331849836656The driver's...

It does automatically calibrate, but you do have to input some information.My car was tuned on E85 and I run only E85 with it - though it is rarely exactly 85% ethanol according to the sensor. I used the mathematical equation located here for the calibration...

It isn't $6. https://machv.com/products/1g-dsm-speedometer-cableThe lube would run downhill from the cluster to the tranny.

The failure experience I had was at the transmission end, so perhaps I am not too helpful your scenario - sorry.

Ethanol sensor is optional. I started without it and added it later.For reference, I went 494 hp (Dynojet) with an Evo 8 MAS before I switched to SD (stopped trying for more HP while I had the EVO MAS because the ACT 2600 street disc was slipping), so that might be another option for you...

Check the transmission end of the cable (can do without removing anything if you have skinny-enough arms) to ensure it's still screwed in. If it is, remove it and look at the end. It should have clearly defined tabs sticking out of the cable along the opposite axis. There is a possibility that...

Something unexpected I ran into was that local stores (recently?) started selling blue washer fluid that was labeled as "summer" mix (good to only 32 degrees) here in MN. Stoooopid! I used this back in June/July and just saw the container when I started having issues at -15. Who swaps their...

Kenneth Schlorf updated 92 Eclipse GSXView updates to this DSM profile...

Kenneth Schlorf submitted a new DSM Profile :91 Eclipse GSXRead more about this vehicle here...

Thanks jakk220. It's been too long, I guess, since I have had a completely stock DSM (20 years or so). I thought it could handle 87 if I didn't raise the boost.

First of all, not sure why you Hawaii guys have to rub it in my face by responding together and ganging on me...I mean...we have 4-6 inches of snow coming tonight (starting right now) and our high temp next week might hit double digits. :-) I am a little jealous.Base timing is right on 5*...

I just put in 8.8 gallons of 91 (highest at the station...going to look for 92-93) and I reduced the timing tables to the 2G (based on those on the Wiki by ECMTuning). This made a noticeable improvement; however, anything over 30-35% and the knock retards up to 11.6 degrees.I'll burn through...

This was supposed to be a simple post and a matter of the DSM community reading my post and merely suggesting (if someone felt so inclined): "yes...I have heard of timing being off causing lots of knock" or "no...timing being off a tooth wouldn't cause lots of knock." Because I don't know the...

I wonder what the diff is regarding the "Premium" label then...hmmm... you have a 1G Eclipse Turbo or are you referring to your GVR4? Anyway...Knock CEL is set at 3* and it activates at 2200rpm and 0% throttle (not sure if those last two are factory settings, but I have never messed with them).

JP, I appreciate you jumping in to offer suggestions. In my '92 GSX the gas door and gauges say "Premium" fuel, but the '91 doesn't - either way, it shouldn't be knocking like in the log at 33% throttle with 87 octane, so that is not the problem. This car has never seen a boost controller and is...

I appreciate your honesty and realize that few people may offer suggestions; however, I was hoping someone might be willing to say from their experience that the timing being off might cause the issues I am having so that I have an idea before purchasing parts and figuring which upcoming day...

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? No major leaks.2). Verified mechanical timing? Unknown - that's one reason I am writing this post.3). Verified base timing? 12/8/20164). Ignition system COP or Stock Coil: Stock Wire brand and Age: NGK - 2 months old Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK...

yw!

I believe it is: MV027263 (8x30)

After looking at bunches of pictures and never seeing a rotor with holes for the 10mm bolts holding the ABS ring on, I determined/decided that they don't exist. So then I decided to buy a pack of these to use in place of the 10mm bolts. That meant that I needed this to counter sink the existing...

It's just for heating/cooling the oil. It's not necessary to have it and many people remove it.

Did some digging and couldn't find the answer...I have a 1G that originally had the single piston front caliper and am upgrading to the Brembo set up from the Evo 8/9. Bought these StopTech rotors from Amazon: Power Slot 126.46064SL Slotted Brake Rotor. Went to put them on the hub and found that...

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/biss_screw.htm

www.clipsandfasteners.com

They are holding up perfectly. The weatherstripping and clips don't get much abuse, but they are certainly holding tight in the hole (in the door and the weatherstripping). I would not hesitate to order them if I were you - no issues even if they are not the original equipment size.

I discovered the same thing - opposite of what I thought would happen. I would expect the heat to loosen things up and not tighten things up. I would definitely recommend to everyone that the throttle cable be adjusted on a warm/hot engine, not cold. For reference, the vehicle has the non-cruise...

Just wanted to share a tip in case it is helpful to anyone searching through: I didn't properly tighten my springs when I reinstalled my throttle body. After having weird drivability and idling, I found that I needed to tighten the springs two turns. I was able to leave the throttle body on the...

New cable didn't solve the problem. New oil seal did. As tmoney20g stated, the MD730727 seal solved the issue. Removed the battery and box. One 10mm bolt held the speedometer gear in place. This was the toughest part: I had to take a long rod and lightly pound/turn the assembly clockwise about...

Sorry to bring up this old post, but I wanted to share what I found. clipsandfasteners.com sells this:PAS9560-50 Weatherstrip Retainers - Hondawhich worked very well and fit great on my 1991 Eclipse's door's factory weatherstripping.

Thanks tmoney20g (and for the seal number). I am aware that it has a seal, but am wondering what solves the problem of fluid in the gauge cluster. Does the speedometer cable have a seal somewhere built within it that prevents it from coming up or is the seal that prevents it from coming up the...

Hi! I have done some searching without success, so I would appreciate some thoughts.I know that transmission fluid can make its way up the speedometer cable and into the gauge cluster (firsthand). But I am wondering if a new cable solves the problem or if there is a seal at the speedometer...

I agree with checking the throttle cable and making sure it isn't too tight at the intake manifold. Have you considered leaks at the FIAV, too, or do you think your boost leak test would have caught that?

I don't intend to insult you, but I have to ask in the hopes that it helps you: have you rotated the engine so the valves are closed (per post 31 here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/compression-test-results-oil-on-3-of-4-spark-plugs-threads-hard-cold-starts-slow-spooling-etc.495371/page-2)?