Jmf bottom mount manifold v band - 850Archer fab t3 manifold black ceramic-1100(1325 plus shipping value)Garrett gt3582r (turbo lab gtx wheel) with tial .82 housing. Comes with oil and coolant feeds and returns-1500Silver Tial bov-130Aem Methanol flow gauge-1501g battery bracket jmf...
Group buy. Jmf bottom mount and garett gtx3582r for 2300. Comes with down pipe that exits driver side bumper. Made to fit with forward facing oil filter housing.
Have sound clips if interested
Jmf bottom manifold v band - 750Archer fab drag top mount- 900Garrett gt3582r (turbo lab gtx wheel)with tial ...82 housing -18006 bolt Jmf drag manifold mustang flange but also included is oem flange adapter-soldTial bov-100Ets 4 inch race fmic-550Fic 1650 high z-soldMethanol flow...
The only bushing you wont need is the trailing arm one. The upper and lower control arm bushings you will still need unless your running adjustable arms.
This is the only thing i could find talking about wire swaps to a 90 style ptu. Im not really familiar with a 90 wiring because... well i never had one haha. Ive had 91 92 and 94.
With the key on and the ptu unplugged you should have battery voltage at pin 6 8 1. Pin 3 should have no more then a few ohms of resistance (horseshoe shape) to battery ground. Pin 2 and 7 is what the ecu uses to provide ground and fire the coils.
Well to run only on two cylinders i would go after the coil for cyl 2&3 or the ptu. I would disconnect both and check the pins. See if any of the pins on the ptu or coil are bent. See if the female pins in the connectors are all the same or if one is damaged/opened up. Also check the wiring...
Do what i did and bent the dipstick tube. Leave it bolted to the block and heat it up with a heat gun. Then bend it outwards towards your p/s pump. Once you warm the metal up it moves around pretty easily and doesnt kink( unless you try to go 90 degrees).
You can play with your timing at idle and under it to help stabilize the rpms. Like i previously said i have no isc or fiav. I also delted the idle switch and simulated it through ecmlink. After the initial 30 second hold of the throttle it will idle 900rpms pretty steady. It only stalls...
I just went with a k tuned 80 mm throttle body. Throttle bodies pressure tested to 90psi. I know several honda guys running k tuned throttle bodies on big power cars (800+) and no complaints. They have them with mustang flanges which jmf and magnus make available to use.
Outer shell? Unless my memory is bad theres no outer shell. Burn the old bushing out and install the new one.Only outer shell i remember is in the rear subframe. Mine was pretty rotted so just left it out. Solid as a rock
I want to add unless your running a large turbo and going for 600 plus hp And are very good with ecmlink/any standalone leave the isc. It takes a lot of tuning to get it to idle stready and not stall out when coming to a stop
I deleted my idle switch with my wire tuck. Ecmlink can simulate an idle switch. I also have no isc or fiav. Cold starts you have to hold the throttle for about 30 secs. Then it idles fine at 900rpm with 276 cams.
Go with a high impedance injector. If pump gas id say fic high-z 1150. If e85 high z 2150.A 255 is a good pump but is limited. I say go big with a 450 and never have to go back in there. Plus if your running e85 its rated for ethanol.
The gsc shaft is nice. Id replace the bearing in the block for a peace of mind. For roadracing its deff a good choice.For everyone else
Ive always deleted the shafts for peace of mind and higher oil pressure. Ive also done it where i just removed the belt for the front shaft and left the...
When i tucked my harness i bought a firewall grommet from k tuned(yes honda company) Its made for shifter cables but it fits perfect on the firewall dorectly behind the ecu. You can cut a hole in it as big as you want. My harness went from like 12 feet long to 3. You cant see any wires...
Front subframe was a breeze. Came out with just a hammer. All the rear stuff.... torch. My secret to doing bushings ( ive done prob around 50 now) is heat the outside metal of the bushing. Keep heating it all around and keep tapping on the bushing with a hammer. Once the bonding glue...
Anyone watching the battle of the 7's? Boostin performance in the lead but steve from clm motorsports is coming in fast with his awd civic. They finally catching onto the awd thing haha
4gfun - you never messed with the tie rods so your alignment is the same. Only thing you changed is the angle of the steering wheel to the rack. If it drives straight and the wheel is straight then your alignment is the same as before
I love mine. Ive been contemplating trying the new gtx3584rs but for now gonna push this 3582 to its limits. 650+ whp on the street is plenty fast anyway lol. Once I find someone to install a rollcage for me then ill make it a full track car and go gt42. :sneaky:
If its anything like a 1g dsm then you can move the steering wheel all you want. The clock spring is behind it and seperate. I didnt even think about that. Prob a lot easier to just unbolt the wheel and move it
Maybe i didnt word it correctly. When ur driving down the road straight your wheels are straight. They align themselves to track with the rears. Your steering wheel though may be way off. so what you do isdrive down a parking lot going straight( no hands on wheel). Just cruise at a fee...
The wheels will center themselves when you drive(going down a straight road no hands on steering wheel). What i do at work when i drop subframes with racks is put the stering coumn back on the rack with no bolt. Drive in parking lot and let the wheels straighten themselves then pull up...
I love my quad quad turbo haha. I just swapped the ball bearings for muffler bearings. Full boost at 1500rpms. Hopefully now ill be able to compete with those damn prius and geo metro guys.
I ran my fp green over 30 psi for a year. Never had any problems. I did remove the snap ring once while in the car and i will never do that again haha. Either someone messed with that snap ring and dont wanna admit it or possibly in a long stretch the blow off valve isnt working and caused...
Thats not from boosting 30 psi. Looks like the compressor cover wasnt attached correctly and came off damaging the wheel. That large snap ring can be a pita to fully seat if the turbo is still in the car when trying to install it
What gauge are you using? Also where are you placing this gauge? It does seem high but id rather have high oil pressure then low. Mine hits 75 psi by 5k then holds it until 8k where it starts to creep up a bit. My ofh is ported heavily but i have no balance shafts or squirters