Pressurize after turbo to check for leaks and do you have your bov vented?

If you joust the car meaning press down on the center of the rear bumper hard and let it bounce. It shouldn't bounce more than 1 and a half times that'll let you know if either strut needs replacing and repeat for the front bumper to check the struts.

What about exhaust leak from exhaust manifold or the down pipe?

That'll work for the 2g. But first gen just heat sink the o2 it'll be fine.

It's a dust cover.

Get some kiggly springs and along with there hla regulator. It helps with valve tick.

To break the tie rod from the knuckle get a ball ping hammer and hit it horizontal after taking the nut off and it'll pop off. The tie rod is tapered so by hitting it makes it vibrate loose. It's better than hitting the nut on top.

Are the plugs stock or did you go with a colder plug? Colder plugs for higher boost. O yeah take a fresh set of plugs with you to the dyno.

P04 or P06 on the aem wideband simulates narrow band for the ecu. You've got to turn the dial in the back of the gauge.

If you pull off the oil pump/front case use a very small amount of rtv just to help keep in place.

So are you getting better gas mileage now?

How much boost are you running what type of blow off valve?

Use a heat sink for the sensor in the stock location. I've had it there for over a year an half. Still accurate. I got mine off of a Chevy equinox it was on there o2 sensor. It was warrenty work so didn't feel bad.

Did you push the cv shaft all the way in till the snap ring engaged. It could have popped out and caused the vibration. Or it could be your wires causing a miss. Don't really know what you mean since there is little detail for vibration. Is it vibration from right Side of car, passenger Side...

No it just started happeningChecked and it's seeping at the master cylinder on the push rod.

Your post is what made me think of DIY thanks.

So you recommend me rebuilding instead of just getting it warrantied?

See that's what I was thinking damn autozone master cylinder.

The clutch is soft on start up but once warm it is back to right hieght and stiff again.

If you can find a justice brother distributor get a bottle of fuel injection cleaner and run it in your tank or some BG injection cleaner. You could also get a fuel hose the same diameter of the injector and fill the hose up with injection cleaner. Use a hose clamp on the injector fill it up...

I have the Hyundai oil pump on my 6 bolt but I think it starting to cause noise and will probably try the new ACL/orbit oil pump and use the straight cut gears. Because if you think about the helical it would seem like it will put stress on the case. Its diagno so you would think it'll start...

I wonder is this a big problem with the first gen dsm?

That's a good move switch them and let us know what happens.

Maybe you've got a dirty injector have you thought about cleaning them or sending them off to get cleaned?Wait was the car still cold when you start to get on it?

Have you done a compression test? How this system works is through the lowest resistance 2 and 3 work off the same coil so when the cas sends a signal it you have fuel in cylinder 3 that would have the least resistance so it fires but if you have low compression in that cylinder it won't fire...

Could be your injector relays in ecu causing intermitten problems but if it was transistor it would just go out and be out. But you didn't say you changed wires. You might want to change spark plug wires. Taylor's are some good wires.

Did you solve the problem?

So what did it end up being? Im having a simulor problem.

Did you ever find out your problem?

Yupp got it from pick and pull. It was 2 years ago and haven't had a problem and its a daily 5.0 puller.

I replaced the connector and the unit. Mine went out 2 years ago and no problem yet.