A dowel pin puller master set made it easy. Such as as this Cal-Van Tools 95400
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LUELJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rlyoFbKVYQ70CThere might be a less expensive trick, but I don't know it.
Did you bleed the slave cylinder as instructed here?
http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-bleeding/Is clutch fork making contact with transmission when the pedal is fully pressed?
Well it's not listed on their site. I called them up and they made me a set. That was about a year ago or so. They are local so it was more convenient.
I think the rod knock would be apparent through the whole rpm range. And there are no metal flakes in oil. I'm quite certain the noise is coming from valve cover as I lean over it to rev it.
Some background: rebuilt stock 6 bolt head. The head did come with the project car and had warped cams, and possibly bad lifters or stock springs which I swapped out (valvetrain was knocking at idle). So I put in used GSC S2 cams, new GSC lifters, and new kiggly street springs, and new kiggly...
I shipped a car from IA to CA. It was $850 cash on delivery. Plus the broker fee ($200 i think). They ask if the car is driveable. I presume they charge more if it isn't. They also ask if you want open or closed carrier. I chose open and the car was relatively dirty when delivered. Pickup and...
I've had a new gates rpm belt walk. So then went with evo9 belt and it was good. Do you have another belt to try? To help in eliminating possible causes.
That's basically what I did, trial and error. I went from missing timing cover tin, to pinching front case gasket, to two different tensioner arms, and I want to say the post had some wear but I dont recall the micrometer numbers. In the end, after redoing the timing belt several times in the...
As I understand the tensioner is fully compressed when the engine is running. And when stopped it pushes on the arm to take up the slack. So, in essence, the post and bushing would be most important for belt alignment.
A new one has a straight machined surface. it looks like its been used a lot. Its possible the bushing in the tensioner arm is worn too. You won't know until you start the engine and see if the belt off to one side on the cam gears. A new tensioner arm and bracket solved my problem.
Aem cam gears have nice big adjustment bolts. I think it's something to look for. There are also fidanza cam gears which have stud and nut instead of bolt which is also good.Also, I've read if not planning to degree cams, no need for adjustable cam gears. And degreeing cams gives slight power...
Couple other things to consider...Did you adjust the master cylinder rod so that its just far enough so that you can push back on clutch fork by hand?Is the clutch fork touching the housing when pedal fully pressed?
I think competition clutch pressure plates are the same but different discs for the stages. I have competition clutch stage 2 and pedal feels fine. The pedals was rebuilt with non turbo one without helper spring and welded. I haven't done much driving, 5 miles or so, none at wot. Will get it...
I have 1g ecu with ecmlink v3. But I guess it would make sense that it would work with evo8 ecu. The posts I've seen never mentioned using different ecu, maybe it was implied.
I replaced the stock 1g knock sensor with a new oem evo8 one, but now getting a knock sensor circuit malfunction CEL in ecmlink. I just got the car to idle and revved it a bit, and the log showed some movement on the knock signal. Any ideas? Do I need to configure ecmlink for it?
I installed the Aeromotive 340 stealth pump and have rewired with 10 gauge wire from the relay to the fuel pump hangar assembly connector. The wires for the pump itself are not 10 gauge. The question is, do I need rewire all the way to the hangar?
I just got ECMLink V3 used for my GVR4 and want to reset it to stock since it is all stock except 16g. I downloaded the latest app and updated to the latest firmware.http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3configs#stock_v3_ecu_config_data_files
In this link to reset it says "Remember, if you don't...
The pin was in the tensioner to showcase that its not loose.For the timing, I have the HF advance timing light. I set the dial to zero. On the pulley it shows 5*. Somewhere I read that if the pulley is separating it could move the timing mark. So, that's why I was wondering if the cam timing...
Thanks. It's about the fourth time I'm checking the timing belt through the progression of getting this gvr4 running. So, I already knew all that needs to be removed. Plus I have ps, abs, ac, and cruise delete to give it some space. The tensioner is new and not leaking. However, there was oil on...
I keep noticing that after shutting engine off, sometimes it stops in a way that timing belt is loose and feels like I could pull it off the exhaust cam gear. However, when I rotate engine by hand its tight all the way around. Sometimes I can get the grenade pin all the way through, other times...
I moved the link to the outer (softest) setting. It seems fine now. Car has different problems, but at least I can drive and diagnose those.I'm not sure how whiteline intended to use the other settings. The hardest setting would put the end link at a weird angle anyhow.
For my gvr4, I installed rear whiteline sway bar and their end links on medium setting. It's a really tight fit with kyb and some unknown lowering springs. On one side the end link is rubbing against the axle bolts. When car is in the air everything is fine. Anyone had this issue before? Should...
I'm getting about .610-.611 flywheel step height. As I understand it's within spec. I tested my rigged tool on a used flywheel which looks to be resurfaced and it was .615.
The slave rod is 85mm or about 3.34". Doesn't look like its extended.I'm checking the flywheel step height. The flyheel is aluminum one not sure on the brand and the clutch looks like comptetition clutch stage 2 i think. But all new.
Well it looks like there is too much freeplay on the fulcrum. Also it looks like the retaining tab is bent. Not sure what causes it. But I think a new fork and fulcrum are needed.
The subframe and mustache bushings are different from energy control arm bushings. Those require the outer shell to remain. So, they are easier to install.The energy bushings require the outer shell to be removed. Since I didn't have the proper tools. I dismantled the bushing by removing the...
I got the bushing pins out by heating them with a torch and using a big c-clamp from a basic press kit. Now onto removing the rest of the rubber and checking if the bushings require the outer shell or not.