Looking for a 2GB OEM front bumper cover in the mid-atlantic region. DC. MD, VA, DE, NJ, or Philly area. Or possibly willing to meet in one of these area.
Another fact in favor of steel rods is, the factory 1G big rods are around 700 grams. They obviously last forever under 450whp and don't wear out bearings fast. Most h-beams are around 150 grams lighter and most I beams weigh the same weight as factory 1G big rods. So not even a big I beam like...
Haven't gave up on this. I got the transmission back from Jacks. All gears are installed along with Evo III 3rd-5th. Also picked up another 2G GSX that it will be going in. Hopefully I will be able get it together by early next year.
I would choose Ti-6Al-4V over 7075 aluminum rod only for fatigue strength. The fatigue strength of titanium is close to steel's fatigue strength, and a little over 3 times the fatigue strength of 7075 aluminum. But at $4500 for a set of rods, you can replace 4 sets of Aluminum rods and still...
Figured I'd make a drawing to make it easy. I used a multimeter to confirm these connections were correct and when connected in this manner, the OHM readings match factory numbers. My tank is empty and it is reading 108. There are more connectors these wires go through on the way to the gauge...
I used this to cover my lines. solenoid located by alternator relay and ran lines all they way over to the gate. held 38psi. Can't see them in the pic but I ran them lower by the turbine housing and it never melted.
https://www.designengineering.com/fire-sleeve-tape-kit-0-625-id-x-36/
I believe I have read all of the threads involving fuel level wires and I have the wiring sorted out for the fuel level on the Passenger side. Fuel level is yellow with black stripe (mine seems to be just plain yellow) and small black wire is mapped to the black fuel level wire. I am not sure...
I am rewiring and replacing my fuse box that is in the engine bay. Based on the diagrams that are in the FSM the pin layout of the relay makes no sense, 1-3-4-5. Most micro relays are like the ones listed below, none are numbered like the relay in FSM. After figuring out the numbering I still...
There are many options for the DSM/EVO 1-3 drivetrain. You can even get a sequential 6-speed if you want. You just have to be willing to spend the cash.
In the late 90's to early 2000's cars weren't running that smooth compared to now. Compared to most economy cars I owned back then I couldn't tell much of a difference. Especially after the turbo-back exhaust, cams and motor mounts. Unless you plan on keeping the factory motor mounts, stock...
This is due to you running an oil pan gasket and not RTV ROFLROFLROFLBut, to be honest, I have seen this failure many times. Hence the reason I don't think it is worth it to run them. There is also a third option, you can run the race shaft to provide support better than the stubby shaft...
It's a common failure point, to me, it's not worth the risk. Balance belt often fails before timing belt. Balance bearings can fail and put metal shavings through your engine.
I went light on the RTV usage in that area and hoped that was enough but I was able to validate it worked today. Brought an endoscope and it fished it through the oil drain port, saw it was unblocked.
In the past, I've had issues with getting RTV in the oil pump shaft seal drain hole in aftermarket oil pumps. As you can see in the pictures below, first is a 6-bolt ACL oil pump and the second is an OEM 6-bolt oil pump. The OEM pump clearly has an offset drain hole to keep from accidently...
That's going to be a difficult task, good luck with your search. Probably be easier to get two 1G cores, put them together and weld end tanks on them just like Alamo did.
You can try this one out, It is the same size as a 1G core doubled up. The end tanks are close to the same location as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154953964722?fits=Model%3AGolf%7CMake%3AVolkswagen&hash=item2413f9dcb2:g:zIwAAOSwGn1f-UH2
Just got home last night and got some pics of what came in the mail. Everything looks good so far. This is how it was packaged inside the box. Nothing looks damaged. To confirm, it is a factory input shaft spline. Was able to slide an ACT street disc right on and it fit snug. As you can see in...
I'm not putting it together, definitely having it sent to you or Jack's for installation. Also WPC the whole gearset since they are so hard to find these days. There was no mention of the input shaft being larger in the description or during our emails. I'll check the input shaft thickness when...
speedgearracing had a close gear ratio for an evo 3 on their website back in the day. I emailed them the other day and they stated they still make them. Figured I'd ask before sending my money away, they do accept paypal so it's not a massive risk.Comes with 1st and second gear with input...
Looking to do an old school build trying to get my hands on a evo 3 o2 housing and possibly one of the evo 3 GT exhaust manifolds that used to be on ebay back in the day. or even a Hafe.similar to this.
http://www.gtpumps.com.au/manifold.html
I think I figured it out, most people don't run all the creature comforts in the chassis on the PMU. I think I'll just keep it in the engine bay. The confusion came in when I was calculating all of my outputs and it was around 30 and most PMU's are around 16. I was wondering how people ran the...
Has anyone done an install of a PMU like the ones listed below for their chassis harness? I would like to rewire my chassis harness to get rid of all I deleted separate it from the engine harness. Just wondering if anyone has already done so I could get some sense where to start...
Finally got around to it today, the terminal clip is 3/4" and the all start boot is not big enough top go around it. In theory it will still work bit it won't clip on the the terminal.