This is definitely a helpful post, I went through the same ordeal but didn't want to deal with finding the correct seals and shipping individual tiny parts to Canada at $20/ea, so I ordered a MB526956 shaft rebuild kit from Mitsubishi instead (surprisingly still in stock at $60ish US). Then I...
Nice work. Are you dealing with Competition or Piston Ring? I just dropped off my Neon cylinder heads at PR today - they did my block & crank work, and they've done family projects for decades. In case you're considering selling the ol B16G, I'm not against taking it back in the future either...
I don't have seats, but I have a 65mm DBW throttle body from an Outlander that bolts to stock manifolds. You'll need a pedal from any junkyard Mitsubishi.
Amayama is notorious for this, and for overcharging on shipping. If anyone can get them in North America, it's JNZ. Also look into Evo 1 or 2 pistons (don't use Evo 3), which are 8.5:1 equivalents.
They spin in different directions, so you can't just change the turbine housing between them. They also have different flanges; the Evo 4-9 is divided, but the 1-3 housing isn't.
Considering converting my Evo to 5-lug, which requires non-ABS front hubs from a 1G DSM - either FWD or AWD. Looking for quality pieces, no junk please.
I've heard from a few racers that they're pretty finnicky, and they look really floppy and awkward in all the videos I've seen of them in use. They are absolutely not for usage on a synchro box though, they shift too fast for the synchro to do its thing, which will wear out engagement teeth.
Just doing something "to be different" is about the worst justification there is for a bad idea, especially when you don't have the know-how to do it yourself. There's no point in doing this. It's a very limited production, small displacement engine that is made for a very specific niche...
I've been a follower of G&G for a long time since the content is good and they don't take themselves too seriously, yet they're both good builders and phenomenal racers. They just have terrible ideas sometimes. The DSM/RX8 series has been entertaining, but I would've hoped that he didn't start...
Like I said, try a different FMU gain rate first, the 12:1 runs you out of fuel pump - you still have enough fuel injector. If you drop 10-20 psi of fuel pressure, you’ll have enough fuel flow to support your current boost level, but watch your AFRs very carefully as you adjust.
It's not so simple. Those Evo injectors are 550ish cc at 43.5 psi and stock is around 220cc at 43.5 psi. Remember - the ECU doesn't know what size injectors it has, it simply has a defined open/closed strategy given its known parameters. It will dump more than double the fuel at all times with...
You can either run the FMU plus a usual aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (my old turbo Neon had that when I bought it), or the SFMU, yes.
5 psi x 12:1 gain = 60 psi + 48ish psi base fuel pressure = 108 psi, just for 5 psi of boost. A Walbro GSS342 can support roughly 140-150 hp of fuel total...
It shouldn't be that rich at idle with stock ECU/injectors/fuel pressure, something is wrong there, but I see lots of issues. Are you on the stock fuel pump? If you're at 8 psi of boost, multiplied by 12:1 FMU ratio plus your base fuel pressure = approximately 140 psi fuel pressure at full...
Back in the 1990s, Chrysler and Mitsubishi used what is effectively the same 2.0L engine - 420A for Mitsubishi and ECB/ECC for Chrysler. Chrysler thought they were clever by pinching pennies and installing composite head gaskets on early Neons, whereas Mitsubishi went the MLS route on the 420A...
This forum tries to be helpful, but man this topic is honestly covered every single month. Overbore is determined by condition of the bores themselves, your machine shop will tell you. Ring gap as called for by the manufacturer. BOV make is largely irrelevant as long as it isn’t a cheap turd...
The Evo 1-3 indeed has a different shift lever/shaft than the DSM; I tried to get one so that I could use a DSM transmission core in my Evo, but Mitsubishi no longer had that lever in stock. For Evo 1-3 it's part number MD740893, and it shouldn't be too hard to find someone who needs it. You...
A couple weeks ago I found out that Bullseye (accidentally?) made a DSM turbine housing to fit the Borg-Warner EFR 8374 turbo and sent them to ExtremePSI. Problem is, it's also only a .55 A/R, which feels like a hilarious mismatch for a 79 lb/min turbo. Can anyone guess how it would perform? The...
A "Stage 3" clutch in an otherwise stock car is an awful idea. Don't make it drive any worse than it absolutely has to - a stock clutch is more than good enough for a 420A without a turbocharger.
The Evo is a different ball game. Factory two-piece, single hanger. Not expensive to rebuild at all.MB837576 - hanger bearing
MB505119 - boot kit
MB837300 - joint kit, includes boot (originally MB505101)
MR350138 - U-joint (2)
MR111611 - yoke (originally MB000408)
MA143517 - bearing nutMy...
Cryo treating is not going to add 50% more strength to your gears, unfortunately. Shot-peening and cryo are fractional increases that might buy a bit more time against a lot of torque, but they won’t make your gear set stronger than one of the better sets out there. The 93-99 3/4 set is...
Reposting my ads to only include the stuff still available. All prices include shipping within North America; can ship worldwide by CanadaPost for the difference.Borg-Warner EFR 7670 turbocharger kit with 0.92 divided T4 IWG housing. This is the absolute ideal turbo kit for circuit racing or a...
Just to be clear - the issue isn’t that it won’t run right, the issue is that it’s going to destroy your engine very quickly if you don’t do those additional modifications to control fuel. Do not just slap a turbo on your car without addressing fuel and hope for the best, it doesn’t work like that.
...and of course it's awful. I'm curious to see how far they can take this car, but I don't have high hopes for it given what's wrong with it. I genuinely don't understand how or why people will dump thousands of dollars into an engine to make power when there are serious, fatal flaws in the car...
I see the logic behind people using stock stuff for the smaller turbos and getting bigger turbos for pieces they have fabricated, it makes sense. I don’t know enough to guess what the 5757S on a vband setup would do against the equivalent Green on a cast manifold, though. That would be an...
Thanks for this. The actual Evo OFH likely has more clearance to the downpipe than what you use for mock-up without the cooler attachment, so that heat issue might be overblown for us. A shield for the alternator would be desirable to keep it alive the longest, though.I like the idea of a...
Adding to my previous sale, I also have the following for sale. All prices indicated are in USD and include shipping within North America by CanadaPost. Will ship worldwide for the difference.-Pair of Bride seat rails for Evo 1-3, Lancer GSR, etc. I had my pair of Bride Ergo 1 seats mounted on...
The 5451S might be a good time, but finding any information about the smaller turbos in the line is nearly impossible.
Do you have much experience with the new Garrett G-series turbos? They look tiny, which should help the downpipe clearance. How would a IWG G25-550 or G25-660 package up in the...
This video is quite informative on the subject. I'm not sure someone would actually crush a Tomei BOV, but the IX & X variations are pretty close to each other.
There are a lot of threads about this already, but the general impression is that it's not worth it. It needs a motor mount fabricated, the oil pan heavily modified to clear the exhaust, modification to the cooling system, custom brackets for the alternator & power steering, possibly oil filter...
The 6 speed in the RX8 is made of glass, it’s not going to stand up to the torque of a 4G63. The 5 speed of the FD RX7 has awful ratios, so it’s out too. I’d want a Tremec TKX or T56 variant behind it instead of dicking with a bunch of dodgy old transmissions.
Further to the point, if you have a lot of cylinder or ring wear, as indicated by poor compression, I'd be highly suspect of the crank & main journals, since these engines don't just wear out one component. Most used Neon/420A cranks need at least a 0.010" grind to even them out, and the...
For reference, my Neon (equivalent engine) had 215 - 200 - 125 - 200 on a compression test. The 125 is from a head warp from overheating, and that cylinder isn’t running right.The 200 is what a healthy cylinder should look like for you, and 150 is the lower-end service limit according to the...
I've had a bunch of people who have seen my sell-off thread send me messages expressing their condolences about the end of the car, but that’s definitely not happening. I'm married to the car and can't just get rid of it after 15 years. My plan was well thought-out for anyone with a bigger...
I know it's 2023 and these questions are still being asked, but looking around on the forum, the question of Evo 1 & 2 still hasn't been concretely answered.I have what I'm fairly certain is an Evo 1 or 2 exhaust manifold, which both share part number MD187529. The manifold has "529" cast onto...
Phase two of my offloading is underway. All prices include shipping within North America; can ship worldwide by CanadaPost for the difference.Borg-Warner EFR 7670 turbocharger kit with 0.92 divided T4 IWG housing. Has Turbosmart IWG75 dual port wastegate and Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port BOV. I...
The money is all from Evo owners overseas, mostly Asia and Australia/NZ. They are the ones willing to spend to maintain and upgrade, and the US/DSM market is an afterthought now, believe it or not. Despite that, almost all of the clowns talking down pricing come from North America for some...
There is no performance benefit to putting a 3" exhaust on a N/A DSM, it will likely be less powerful in the lower RPM range and gain nothing up top over a 2.25" system, which would have a better tone. And for $900+, it's a waste of money.Oh, and don't buy anything from Andy's Autosport.
I'm looking at selling off all my Evo 1-3 stuff because the car might never get done. First up is my seats - if these sell, the rest of my Evo parts will be listed. This is a NEW pair of genuine Ralliart carbon/kevlar racing seats (part number RA652303S1), likely the most desirable Mitsubishi...