https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Extreme-PSI-Oil-Cooler-Kit-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-6-Bolt-SALE.htmlI have this kit. Easy install and includes everything. Mounted behind the driver side fog light area as you suggested.

https://www.dsm3dcreations.com/ is working on one for 2Gs right now. And an elite series ecu mount to put the Haltech where the factory ecu resides. Not sure on timeline.If you are desperate for one right now...

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/injectors-and-fuel-pumps.244522/

12 vs 12-1 on the standalones. What about the -1 is better if the home signal is still provided by a modified CAS?

I hope for the best, but as enriquez has said, if the previous tune wasn't spot on, you will be messing with more than the data sheet settings. And that means even if your commanded and actual AFRs are perfect, but that is a result of two wrongs (fuel settings and VE settings both incorrect)...

I think in this case, assuming the car was really dialed in before the injector swap, the FIC data should be enough to get the car back to where it was. The data sheet includes all of the dead time information across the voltage range. The very specific fuel flow characteristics etc. But if the...

Step 1 of all wideband gauge/controller vs. ECMLink logged value investigations is verify your positive and negative wiring for the gauge, as Curt mentioned above. If the AEM controller and ECMLink don't agree on what 0V is, you'll be chasing your tail on this issue. Make sure they are both...

Awesome! Good luck on your tuning efforts.

"Displayed" values and "Captured" values are two different menus. You need to "capture" CombinedFT (or more precisely its component parts) before you can "display" it.https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecmlink101datalogging

In the process of getting my 2G with black top CAS running on a Haltech Elite. What do I need to look out for? Timing sync errors or actual misfires?

This covers essentially every boost control configuration you would ever need to consider and the benefits of each. See if this clears up your questions.

I'd start here.https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/bcsinstall

Windows 11 and ECMLink are fine together. No issues for me.

I have a 2G. I had to swap the MAP sensor from the Baro input that ECMlink uses through the factory MAF connector to the MDP input that would have been on a factory 2G car. I have also found that the PnP adapter default tach output seems to cause a very jumpy tach so I need to troubleshoot that...

https://www.fs.com/c/copper-patch-cords-960This vendor is favored by many of the 'homelab' YouTubers and Subreddits. Mostly for the optical stuff but they have a large selection of copper stuff. Might be worth a look to compare.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/This should help.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/e85-injector-max-lb-min-calculations.253452/Take a peek here for fuel Injector sizing questions when moving to E85. The fuel injectors/pump may be the one other area of focus when swapping to a flex setup.

With the sensor installed directly into the intake manifold, thus no rubber vac line to act as a filter, I wonder if the pulses of intake air are causing the jaggedness you are seeing. The intake valve events mean the intake manifold isn't at 12 psi flat all the time but is actually jumping up...

UPDATE #49 - 12/4/2022 - Interior Trim Refresh/Haltech First StartFinally took care of a few interior trim issues that have been lingering for years.A-Pillar trim piece has had a hole in it for the previously installed gauge pod.Driver side mirror trim has been missing a section. New one...

Is ECMLink not an option for you? That is what just about anyone on this forum will recommend for 98% of people.That being said, I did just fire up the car (literally yesterday) for the first time on a Haltech Elite 1500. Their PnP adapter and base map make the process as straightforward as...

Attached a set of graphs for HP/TRQ for my FP Race Manifold + TD06SL2 20G vs. 7 Blade HX 35, 12cm TS T3 housing, MF TS T3 Manifold. This was same dyno, same tuner, same engine/cam/intake manifold combo. The TD06SL2 20G is roughly the same as an FP Green. Full boost (28ish) doesn't occur until...

I am still on a 7-Blade HX35 with the factory 12cm twin scroll T3 housing. It works great and the car is super fun for autocross, highway pulls, and just cruising around. The availability of repair parts and the performance per dollar is still good I'd say.That being said, I'd be lying if I...

I got a set of lows and highs from them as well. They work just fine.

This is probabaly more helpful than my post above. Let me know if you have more questions.https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/nitrouscontrolwiring

The ecu is able to pull that FPR pin to ground based on your settings. So grab a 30Aish rated 12V relay. Connect one side of the coil to the ecu at that pin. The other side of the coil to switched/ignition 12V. Direct from battery with a fuse for the high power positive and then the other side...

I had this issue on my 1G. All new hydraulics and bled it to death, barely got the car moving again. Then a few days later, same issue. Ended up being a bent clutch fork. Easy test is just look under the car with the clutch pedal all the way in. Does the end of the fork contact the opening in...

Make sure you are logged in first.

See if this will work for you. https://rixracing.com/collections/3d-printed-parts/products/rix-timing-indicator

When you say factory PDM, do you mean the fuse/relay box? A simple generic fuse or relay block would suffice in trimming this down to bare bones if that is what you are after. But to be clear, the Haltech PDM and other similar devices cost what they cost for a reason. Solid state devices, CAN...

The power graph tells the real story, the car "feels" slow until the turbo full ramps up but that is mostly perception because the peak is so much higher. Some of the magic here is the Morrison Fab manifold that I no longer see available on their site. But I am unsure if similar results have...

I found a log that sort of has a spool graph, though please excuse my throttle position, I assume I was on a back country road or something at the time. But once I go basically WOT, you can see the manifold pressure curve is not very 16G-like given the RPMs.

7 Blade HX35 with the OE 12cm2 T3 TS housing attached to a Morrison Fab Consolidated T3 TS manifold. Here is a dyno comparison between the Holset on 93/~E67 and the older TD06SL2 20G + FP Race Manifold setup on 93. This is with a 1G head/intake and stock cams for both turbos.My 1G is an Evo 3...

O... I missed the Cond. Fan too lol. You are definitely within the fuse rating at 13A per fan (assuming their inrush current isn't too wild). The HI and LO are connected to a resistor box (I think that is what it is?) on the OE fan assembly. This gives the fan a low speed and a high speed mode...

The factory fans are on separate circuits, and actually have 'HI' and 'LO' relays (thus the 4 wires to the fan). So if each fan is 13 amps running, you might be able to get away with the factory wiring and fusing, given it seems both fans run off of a single 30A fuse, according to the fuse box...

I would check the Spal data sheet for nominal current and compare that to the factory fuse value. As far as a "dual relay" setup. My recommendation would be to use the factory harness and wiring up to the fan and have the second relay switched by the factory wiring. It was meant for high current...

I think the porting would be overkill for anything near stock. I got the porting option for a 20G and regretted it. The manifold is already larger than the stock manifolds by a good margin. Save your money and skip it. I do recommend the ceramic coating though both for keeping the cast iron from...

I'd probabaly get whatever that is reconnected before chasing your tail on the tune itself.

I may need to be corrected, but with your WBFactor being so far off that airflow reading is likely inaccurate. The engine believes 39.1 lb/min are flowing at that point but your WBFactor shows that is not the case as you are overfueling by >10%. Get the target AFR and actual AFR to match before...

If that is the power goal, given the boost pressure you will need to make that happen on a 20G, you may want to consider a larger pump with a rewire. Even a rewired 255 is going to be on the edge at that power level.

General rule is to get a stainless steel element fuel filter, but I have seen plenty of posts saying they have had no issues on a factory or paper element filter. Something to consider.It is typically a good idea to run the car to near empty towards the fall and fill it with 93 for winter...

I'd be curious as well. The pricing is way better than AEM. Same 0.5v - 4.5v scale. They look identical which makes sense as I'm pretty sure AEM is rebranding an industrial sensor of some sort.

It's not that they don't work. They just don't seem to last. Typically you can tell it's going before it dies completely. Signals saturate to the limit of vac/boost for a couple samples. Then return to normal. Carry a spare and it won't be too much of an issue.

I have been considering the AEM as well. The Omni's have been awful for me. If you are running ECMlink can you send a log with your AEM sensor? I am curious how smooth the signal is given the signal width is the same (5V) but the extra 14.7 psi of range on the sensor means the overall resolution...

I am at a conservative 15* peak on E. Really removes that knock wall you will see on pump 93.

I am also TS T3 with an HX35, similar peak boost, on a 8.5:1 CR motor with the same Crower cams.Timing on pump 93 maxes out at 5* at 7500 RPM. That is all the car would take on gasoline. E really makes a world of difference at these boost/airflow levels.Depending on boost level, I am at...

I'll let others correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it is Weather Correction Factor. They were at very high altitude I assume, given their locations. Which along with temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors will affect the power an engine is able to produce. The WCF is a...

I think you have this in reverse. If we assume this is true and take it to its logical extreme, the lightest spring possible, or ideally no spring at all, would result in the most boost pressure with the least amount of influence (lowest DC) by the boost control solenoid. We know the general...

Hi All,Over this past winter I swapped the spring set in my Tial-MVR from ~10 psi of spring to ~20 psi of spring. After doing that, I have found that I require a lot more WGDC command to get similar boost levels. Nothing else changed in the system other than this spring change. Same turbo...

For what it is worth, I run Mobil1 15W-50 in my Talon. It is on FP's approved list and can be had for $30/5qt at Walmart. GM's High Performance Supplement for the track spec cars (1LEs/ZL1s/Z06s etc.) specifically calls out this oil for track use and they cover you under warranty even if you...

If you keep torque low enough the power up top won't hurt it too bad. Ricky tuned my car a couple times and kept the limit at 400 ft lbs. I bumped into Tim from TMZ at a show this past summer and he reiterated that limit on a stock trans. You can choose the turbo that makes the peak power you...