I would say minimal pressure loss compared to anywhere else. If the gvr4 ofh ports are on the filtered side, the only drop you'll see is from the filter itself.

It will physically bolt on just fine, but you have to block a few of the oil drain-back ports. I guess I need more info on what you were told would or wouldn't fit.

Where are you going to get your feed from: oil filter housing from the head? For this type of setup, I'd recommend feeding from the OFH. So line from ofh to manifold block, the from manifold block to turbo feed port.

Modified stock intake, less modified evo8 intake, or custom.Is your 4g64 wide or narrow block? Find that out before too long to make sure your transmission choice is correct. If Bill Hincher in still making bellhousings, you can have one for either block made by him for whatever popular...

Looked at them under the car covers as I left for work, thought about getting the part out for the 92 started, dreamed about the resto-mod of the 94 n/t. Then I remembered I still have to acquire a title for it and that's going to be a PITA...

As @steve said, spool/welded center diff. Can also make a viscous coupler eliminator out of an old VCU. You'll want to leave the t-case output shaft in place or appropriately plug the hole if you remove it, though I'm a firm believer in leaving it in to help support the other pieces.

Played with them long ago as well, ragged edge type stuff. Still have a bunch of them that I doubt I'll ever use. I have a spool gun and have gotten pretty good with that, difference is staggering.Alumiweld does work, but it takes a lot of patience, trial and error to get right.

Lots of house projects: kitchen remodel, propane install for range, total plumbing makeover, barn shoring-up, shop shoring-up and organizing, etc etc. Haven't touched any of my dsms in about 2 years except to move them from one place to another.

Sad to see the old car got smashed up, such a sweet car... New one is looking awesome though! I like that you continue to try new things, keep it up man!

@Syclone#334 that piping and intercooler are long gone, sorry

There used to be a thread like this, couldn't find it.Hanging with the kiddo, watching Scrubs, and noticed a dsm in the background. S6, episode 21, couple minutes from the end as Keith is carrying Elliot off after her bachelorette party to what I believe is his car. Red 1ga, can't see any...

Look very similar to 4g eclipse rims...pictured are some on my gst spyder. 18x7.5 IIRC, perfect offset for the 2g flush setup.Turbine designs have a diminishing return for cooking effect due to potential high/low pressure differentials. Brake ducting is far more important and reliable.

Replace it now. 23 years on a belt is asking for destruction.

Apologies, that's not the name. I had written a post, then had to edit it as the info I posted was incorrect.I cannot brand these wheels for you unfortunately. Is there a reason you need the brand (need a replacement etc.) Or are you just curious?

Disregard.

It's been 9 years...

@spyderdrifter I was considering this for another project of mine, though the thickness of the bearing was my particular issue. Good thought though!

Personally I'd your max pressure is t over 90psi at full rpm, I wouldnt worry about it. My suspicion is clearances are tighter amd you're seeing some higher pressure as a result. As long as you don't go insanely high, no harm and enjoy the security of knowing your bearings have plenty of film...

If the dsm axles fit a Saturn hub, great. Custom axles are definitely an option if not. But I'd say the hub knuckles are close enough to try and mock up at least.Saturn DsmPictures not my own, grabbed from Google.There enough similarity I'd be looking at frankensteining that a lil...

What about using the entire hub/knuckle assembly from a 1g/2g? Might be easier to do that than custom axles.

May not even be a VC issue, I suspect I have a CAS issue, but I'll have to see when I dig into it. PCV issue may be compounding also.

I installed the CAS after the cover, as I did most of this work at the beginning of last year. Once I tear into it I'll try to reply back. That car is on the chopping block for selling/partout as it is.I am running a black top CAS. Hall effect. I've previously run the green top optical with...

Touching back on this. I like the cover, but I have a pretty heavy leak from the passenger rear corner by the CAS. Not sure if it's the valve cover or the CAS itself, haven't had time to dig into it. I know I'm having some crank case ventilation issues, but haven't had time to try my remedy at...

I mounted my Hallman pro MBC in place on the a/c switch...

Not worth the effort. The slightly shorter routing would be negated by the potential temperature increase. I'd be trying to cool it down more than shorten routing. Hard pipes would be slightly better, but even that is splitting hairs.Just make sure the core is clean inside, fins are straight...

Iirc, I did use some nippons in my mazda kl build, but it's been a while. They never had a problem as far as I saw, and I punished that poor thing.

Nothing wrong with npr pistons, used them a few times for various builds, including a dsm. They're made well, just inspect them like you would any other.

I'd be checking hard on how bad that rust is...I see alot just in the couple pics, and can only imagine what's hiding behind the rocker panels.If the chassis is solid, then move onto spending money on t-belt and engine management etc. But if the chassis is swiss cheese, find a solid shell first.

Thanks all, @503oneG pmd

I drove a 2010 crown vic I bought a couple years ago that hadn't run/been started for 6 years. Same gas, fired right up and ran fine. Put 91 non-e in it when I drove it home almost 200 miles, just to be safe, but drove it almost 20mi before that with no issue.My point is, if the tank is sealed...

Have you checked the coil pack? Sounds like an ignition related problem. Usually I'd say this a dead giveaway for a crank sensor going bad, but if your replacement is recent, of decent quality and not already oil fowled (and the wiring isn't oil fowled/shorting) then I'd start looking at the...

Iirc, you can run the awd auto without the t-case and rear driveline and it will function fine, but you may need to have the center diff welded to have it work correctly without burning up the viscous coupler. I'm not versed enough in autos to give you a definitive answer.

I did, and overall it's good. I got it installed, but had an issue with the catch can/pcv system I had, so bought parts to upgrade to a -10an/calan setup, but haven't had time to do any of the work.Moving, new baby prep, new job(s), otheraother priorities andland of time in general are in the...

I agree with Matt. Sounds like drivetrain bind from a welded or picked-up center diff.

It happens to the best of us, long as you are ready to go through the motor and redo it correctly, shouldn't be too bad!Keep at it!

Understood, I'm interested as my next plan is a tq build and cruising rpm being low would be great.

Awesome, thanks Hiroshi! Biggest reason I was curious is the auto front diff is vastly different from the manual, though I have considered seeing if custom work could be done to make it usable. Honestly I believe thetthe ringbring gear is too large in diameter, and a custom pinion would need to...