Figured I would share this here to help spread some awareness for what might be happening for the auto dsm. We are down to 5 preorders left to fill spots for. This is a huge improvement for a converter option for the platform! If the is preorder succeeds this could mean more opportunities to...
sooo im looking to start getting parts together for my new engines cylinder head build. looking into parts for this and im not quite sure what if what i picked out is what i need or if its unnecessary. engine is going to be a aluminum rod 10.6:1 compression bottom end, turbo will most likley...
so ive been thinking about starting up a small business for myself doing custom an lines for people that arent able to build them and also possibly doing custom fuel systems installs, ect for local people as well. ive been trying to gauge interest to see if it would be worth putting my time and...
so to try to keep things simple i took my car apart to fix a few issues/ maintenance stuff. i took the intake for some more room to fix some brake lines that broke and also sent injectors out to be cleaned. the car ran fine before taking it apart. so i got the car back together and take it for...
so as a budget racer im not able to buy the top of the line products new all the time and find them used and in good shape is a hassle at best. we then have to turn to other options that will get the job done such as fabricating our own stuff to work. the bolt in fuel cell was one of them for...
this is something that we have done to my car and has worked great. 10 gallon cell and spent around $325 on parts to build it. i was thinking about making a complete list for people what would rather diy than try to find a used or buy new. not something that im selling or trying to compete...
looking to see where everyone mounted their solenoids. im looking to move mine so i dont get heat from track officials. i was already warned about the placement of them. ive since moved the fpr to comply as well with the nhra rule book.heres a picture of where mine are mounted
so we are putting in a 10 point cage into my car and obviously the dash is going to be cut/ trimmed to fit. i was curious to those that have done these already if there are any tips or tricks to it and also best option for tools to use to make it look clean.
so getting ready to put the roll cage and im going back and forth on how to do my rear down bars that go into the hatch. ive got them setup for a rear seat saver and im going back and forth on the best way to weld them to the chassis. ive found two different ways its been done and trying to...
so i decided to fire the car up after sitting a bit (week or two max) and the battery was dead. i threw the car on a charger and let it sit for a little bit to charge. fired the car up and it ran for about 5-10 minutes then it died and i noticed the fuel pump relay clicking and the pump trying...
http://special-carbonfiber.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=306stumbled across this searching around for carbon parts. ive personally never heard of them up until now. i was curious to see if anyone else has heard of them/ purchased from them and if its a decent product.
i didnt know where this would be a good section to post in so if this isnt the right one feel free to move it.im looking to get rid of all of my vacuum line and changing it all to push connect fittings. everything is super easy to run lines to except for the gm map sensor. looking to see if...
has anyone modified the stock evaporator box to fully get rid of the a/c stuff? trying to find a cost effective way to get rid of the a/c stuff under the dash and keep the heater.
so ive been looking into everything for my 1g to make my car pass nhra tech once i break into the 9.99 and under et range. ive been looking into the battery kill switches but since my battery is still in the engine compartment it was making things hard for me. ive seen a couple of solid state...
so as a tech rep for jegs we have vendors come in for "training" to show us some of their new products that they have. turbosmart came in yesterday and was talking about their opr (oil pressure regulator) that they designed to keep the oil pressure to the feed line to the turbo at a constant...
looking for some opinions on this one. i pulled the old headliner out of my car to get ready for the cage install (that and it looks like crap tbh) got all the old insulation out and was going to just paint the roof and leave it at that but got to thinking on putting some type of better...
been looking into slick options to possibly go to for my 1g. i know the most common are m&h, mickey thompson, and hoosier for the dsm but i seen i can get the pheonix slicks through work pretty cheap. was kinda wondering if anyone has ran them and how they worked out for you?
dealing with cars of this age and depending on your location, the bolts that hold the bumper to the fender ofthen rust, seize and then break off on your next round to take the bumper off. the cheap wasy fix to this would be zip ties: theyre cheap and quick but if you have to take the bumper off...
so Ive been looking into other turbo options for the aluminum rod motor im building for my talon (10.5:1 compression). Ive been looking into going to a twin scroll t4 housing and was originally looking into the s300sx series until I started seeing they have ths467. upon doing research I...
trying to clear out some room in my basement so some stuff needs to go. prices do not include shipping/ paypal but are obo. ill get pics posted up tonight or tomorrow of everything.3 bolt 5spd diff/ axles $200
extra set of 3 bolt axles $80Stock 1g auto converter: perfect for restall. $75...
so ive been looking into drag brake options for my 92. stm's kit is extremely nice but $2000+ seems a bit of a stretch for it. ive pieced some part numbers together that should work into building my own kit but I was curious to see if anyone had actually built their own to save themselves some...
does anyone still sell stock replacement fenders for the 1gb? been looking to get a new set for mine and cant really find any options. ive also looked for carbon/ fiberglass oem style with no luck either.
so this has been bothering me since shootout. when they came to tech my car they made mention that my fpr shouldn't be mounted to the firewall of the car. he let me run and said to get it fixed over the winter. according to the nhra rule book on a fwd style setup they only mention that it...
so I figured it was time to make a new build thread for the new car. my old 91 as I mentioned in its thread had started on a downward spiral. after finding all the rust on it I decided I needed to take a different route on my plan. I had a bud that had this 92 awd shell he had been looking to...
would anyone happen to know the total under flange length of a 1g awd pump hanger? im building a custom bolt in cell and don't have my car close to pull mine to measure it to see if the float will have enough room at the bottom.
so ive had this weird issue with my 92 awd were the running light fuse will pop while doing a pull in the car. im confused at where to start with this one. I can drive around normally and no issue but as soon as I go into boost or accelerate hard the fuse will pop. it has popped 3 different...
I recently bought a Mac 3 port bcs to use with link to turn the boost up on my 1g. Looking at the best way to plumb the system for my setup. I found two different ways to plumb it. I have a single 44mm waste gate and a holset hx 40. Any insight on this?
I'm upgrading the fuel pump and feed line on my 1g this winter. I have already bought the fuel line and walbro 450 but I'm unsure on how to get the pump to fit on the stock hanger. Has anyone modded their stock hangers to fit the 450? I know calan sells a pump hanger to accommodate the 450 but...
I'm trying to finish up my build and noticed that the oil galley plug is missing. I've searched around and came up with a part number but can't find a thread pitch. I've found a few different answers but no deffinet answer.
Well I figured it was time to make a build thread of my own. I chose doing a street cat build because I didn't want a dedicated race car. I do want to take it to the drag strip and even try some autocross events locally but I don't want to have to trailer it anywhere.I bought my 1991 eagle...
so as the title says im wondering if the rear camber on my 91 talon is causing some of my rear diff problems. here is what background info i have,"slammed" on megan street coilovers
car has been 4 bolt swapped
first 4 bolt broke a couple teeth on the ring gear
installed secong 4 bolt diff...
I have looked everywhere only to find specs on a 91 rear diff and the only thing i can come up with is specs for a 93. would a 91 and a 93 rear diff be any different? i have a big 4 bolt rear diff. any help is greatly appreciated.
so ive been in the market for cams so i can put them in this winter. i was really interested in the forced performance fp2s until i found out that they are just the comp cam 272 with a $530 price tag. i even went as far as going on to forced perfomances website and looking up cam specs, which...
is it possible to rebuild the lobro? if so where can i but the parts? the reason i ask is i had a clicking noise coming from the rear of my 91 tsi awd and a bad vibration as well. i took the driveshaft out and found that a carrier bearing was bad and upon inspection of the lobro i found that it...
just igured i would say hey to everyone.. i picked up a talon awd from a buddy of mine... ive already got a few plans for it.. i used to be in the honda game for a while but always had an obsession with a dsm lol....