If the timing belt was not tensioned correctly, it can cause a vibration. happened to mine, but mine went away around 2200 rpms. just a thought.

sounds like it could be something to do with your clutch fork. when you had your motor out did you inspect it? and also did you put in any new clutch? because I do know that certain clutch kits require the "extended" slave cyl rod.

Mine did something similar a while ago, and it ended up being a loose connection to the harness connector on the coil pack, picked up a harness and pigtail from the junkyard, and never had it again.I also have had a CAS fail too, it did sputter quite badly, but never had my tachometer...

It's not just condensation, its straight up blue smoke. it's definitely burning oil, you can smell it. Also when I let off the accelerator around a turn and come back on with power, it puffs out smoke. From what I have read:Head gasket= Coolant loss, White smoke, and "baby crap" in the oil...

Hello all, my car has recently started to bellow smoke when I start it up, and then clears up after about 5-10 minutes of driving. I have done some research and it leads me to believe that my valve stem seals are going out. I am curious if there is anybody who has done this before in my area...

I've heard the knock sensor placement was another tell- tale sign. I think it was if the knock sensor was above the freeze plugs, then, you have a 7 bolt. If the knock sensor is below them, then you have a 6 bolt. but I guess without removing your transmission and clutch to expose your flywheel...

So, I was driving about a week ago, and I noticed that my car was making kind of a ticking sound when I pressed the clutch pedal. I drove it for a little while, then the sound just kinda went away. Then a day later I noticed when I pressed the pedal again it would make 3-4 slight pops when I...

So, I was driving about a week ago, and I noticed that my car was making kind of a ticking sound when I pressed the clutch pedal. I drove it for a little while, then the sound just kinda went away. Then a day later I noticed when I pressed the pedal again it would make 3-4 slight pops when I...

glad I mentioned that then... :hellyeah:

True... unless he just likes the look of it. :) which I might add too, that don't expect the thing to look shiny past 30 seconds of running it. that thing rainbowed out within the first minute of idling and then turned bronze after the first drive. it turns unbelievabley hideous after the first...

Yeah, like I said, it's usually a hit or miss, if hes not going to be pulling out any crazy high horsepower I dont see why it would fail, but I just got mine because I was broke and needed a manifold, and the ebay tubular ones were cheaper than the oem replacements. I was going to get the FP one...

I know almost everybody is the "name-brand" or nothing type, but I have been running my eBay exhaust manifold for over 20,000 miles with no problem at all. I think it's sort of a hit or miss kinda thing, but it seems to be well worth the money to me. Although for anything else such as a turbo...

OK, so this is making me mad now, I put in a new speed sensor, and tested every combination of the three wires there is, and the speedometer and odometer still do not work. I have decided that I want to replace all new wires from the speedometer to the gauge. does any body have any advice or...

Thank you for your responses, I don't know about the BISS screw though. If it is that plastic screw in the throttle body, that thing has been destroyed since day 1. however there is that screw in the back of the throttle body itself that acts as a stopper for the throttle puller.

OK, so I noticed my pedal is quite loose and the throttle cable sticks out about 1/3 of an inch. I had a buddy floor it and it turns out that it is not going WOT at the throttle body. I tried adjusting the two bolts on the intake manifold, seeming how the cable is pushed as close to the throttle...

I understand that, however he said 6 speeds are for DD and low hp. I was pointing out that 6 speeds are not ONLY for DD and low hp.In other words, I was being a smart a$$.:p

:thumb: For Sure!

:rolleyes:If this were at all true, then cars like the Ferrari 458 Italia would be a 5 speed. Not a 7 speed, and I'm fairly sure that those are not DD's or low hp.

Rust, ANY modification (if it has any, you know it's most likely been abused) If it looks too dirty, and for that matter, if it looks too clean(if it looks like its brand new, chances are they are covering something up.)And above all else, do NOT fall for the classic DSM seller conversation...

yeah man, think about it, dirt, water, rocks, and other debris, could eat up every thing in that bish. Keep it covered,

I agree, If you get the correct size of tire for a 17 to match the diameter of the stock 16s, how could that throw off the RPMs and gear ratios???As far as I know with the width of a tire vs. compound of a tire, shouldn't both be used in consideration? With a wider tire, you are going to...

Yeah, all three wires are green, there is no black or yellow. I actually can make out which one went in the middle, so that will narrow it down to only 2 possibilities. put the other two on and if they dont work, swap them. Thank you for your quick responses. Also, I am not 100% on this, but the...

Ok. So, I was going to change my vehicle speed sensor, and I did not realize that the connector on top had a clip on it. So accidentally yanked all three cables out of the harness... Looking at the connector I see a problem... All three cables are the same identical color which is a lime green...

XTD TOB are iffy. they sometimes work, they sometimes don't. I would say go an OEM one for 20 bucks for the piece of mind you will get. because think about if the XTD TOB broke, your really going to wish that you spent the extra 20 bucks...I understand money is tight. I was there not too...

The ring gear is what is around the flywheel that feeds into your starter motor. And yes XTD clutches are awesome. Great clutch when you are on a budget.just make sure to get a OEM TOB with it!!! XTD's are noisy pieces of garbage!

OK, so I tore off the timing cover and sure enough, I had a bad tensioner, it was leaking a thick oil out of it and you could press the push rod in completely by hand, so I went to pick n pull and got one off of another car that seems to be in good condition. Also my water pump was leaking a bit...

I had Bridgestone Potenza G019 grids on there, they were good and sticky, but wore down relatively quick.Currently I am running the BF Goodrich G-Force Super Sports, They are a good, sticky, decently priced z-rated tire and I am very happy with them.The size I am running is 225/50/ZR16...

Yeah, thats what I get for not reading.:p

I saw one on a Dodge Viper that said, "this IS my other car"My buddy's plate frame says, "my other ride is your mom." ROFLLOL:D

I am having the same problem with mine too. I'm running off of my little speedometer from my GPS. lol. It actually happened after my throttle body coolant pipe burst and got all over the speed sensor. I don't know if there is a fuse or not.

That is actually what I meant to say, lol, I just did a compression test today, so its still on my mind.

If you want 50/50 weight distribution, just find out how much heavier the front half is, and then equalize that with bags of cement in the trunk. 50/50 distribution!ROFL(forgive me, it's late, I'm at work, and I have had too many Red Bulls) :D

Wait a second, wouldn't the better idea here be to do a compression check first before assuming he blew the head gasket?:idontknow:He says the oil looks chocolate brown, that doesn't mean any thing. My F-350's oil is chocolate brown, and the head gasket is fine.Now I'm not saying that...

I believe with the 4g63 N/T you can use that as a replacement, can't you? or are the 4G63's different then the 4G63T??? I think the only difference is the turbo.and intake set up. The 420a's are different for sure though. I believe that actually is a Neon engine.

If your engine is fine, do not take it apart. As stated above, the engines stock can hold 500-600 horse power safely. If you are wanting to learn how to work on it, you will in due time. The way I learned is just fix it when it breaks and learn during the process. Give it time. Things will break...

not sure if you were still wondering what that was, but it is definitely from the turbo, I rebuilt mine recently and found those same pieces. The bronze piece is from the thrust collar, and the others are snap rings. if you are not running the stock turbo any more, don't even worry about it.:thumb:

I did not replace the tensioner, but I had it inspected. However, I'm not sure, I think it may just need to be re- tensioned, I am still not 100% sure I set the idler and tensioner pulleys correctly. but it isnt jumping teeth at all. If it were, the timing would be off, and the car would run...

I just checked the timing belt again after running it, and it seems tight. I checked the allignment marks on TDC and it has not skipped a tooth. I just changed my timing belt about 4000 miles ago. I am thinking maybe the idler pulley maybe bad?

Hello all,I have a 95 Eclipse GSX that has started making a very loud knocking/ vibrating noise. I had thought it was the exhaust leak I had from my down pipe to exhaust dump flange, but I just fixed that this morning and it seems not to be the case. It makes kind of a knocking sound like a...

I am running an aftermarket master and slave cylinder, the only difference is the push rod on the master cylinder is slightly shorter. but it drives fine. the slave cylinder is identical to the OEM one.

OK, yeah I just wasn't sure if it was different in the t25 vs the 16g, and I don't think it has a housing clamp, it has two half rings that uses 4 bolts to hook up. do you know if scribing is important? I heard that with Garrett turbos they balance the shaft and the wheel separately. is this true?

I ordered a T25 rebuild kit from eBay, So I am driving it trying to stay out of the boost range to try and prevent damage to the turbine or compressor blades, until the kit arrives, I tried searching for some torque specs on the turbo, but have found nothing, does anybody have the torque specs...

So, I ordered the rebuild kit for the turbo off of eBay. And am just driving it staying out of the boost range until the kit arrives, not going over maybe 1-2 psi, in hopes that it will not damage the turbine or compressor. Now, I have been looking up the torque specs on the turbo on have not...

how imperitive is it that I fix this? If I check the oil level daily and there is not much shaft play, can I get away for now just topping off the oil until I can afford just to buy another Turbocharger?

I guess I assumed it was an Oring because I saw a big one and a little one in a kit for sale. is there a site on how to do this?and once again, does anyone know how far a turbo will last when it is leaking oil?

If they are just O-rings, I was just going to Match them up at a local parts store and pop them on.is it a terribly hard job to do?how long do turbos usually last when they are at this level of leaking oil?

okay, I have been having a smoking issue whenever I boost, and today it got REALLY bad. I need to get this sorted out.I am running a stock T25 turbo and I believe it is leaking out of the past shaft seal. it smokes whenever I accelerate with even like 5psi of boost, and then when I let off...

^^ +1 don't worry about doing a boost leak test until you figure out what the CEL is saying, just go to any Autozone or Kragen and they can scan it for you for free. don't waste your time on other tests until you look at what is causing it. Usually CEL codes are the best thing that can happen...

That's kinda what I thought, lol, I wonder if when Mitsubishi designed this car they knew it was going to be modified to the teeth by the people who bought it. LOL

Honestly, is there that huge of a difference in feel between the GST's FWD and a GSX's AWD??? I've never driven a GST, so I don't know, I have driven a 420a and it felt like a hamster powering the car lol.