This is awesome! I have one going in my 3D printer right now. What software did you use to model this? Did you have the OEM piece 3D scanned?

Hahaha unfortunately no updates. I’ve been busy with kids and other projects. The DSM is still there. I still have parts on the shelf that need to be installed.

Raspberry Pi4 is driving the screens. Using tunerstudio dash displays. The pi is hooked up to my megasquirt through a USB cable.

All depends on the material used. I have 3D printed a few pieces inside my car out of ABS and it’s all held up great for a few years now.

I made the switch to a mechanical tensioner years ago. It’s worked out great so far and I find it much easier to work with than the hydraulic grande pin style.

Yeah I use just a regular 2.0 gasket because it’s what I had off hand and it’s worked just fine. I bought 10 of them off rock auto when they were on whole sale for like $5 lol.Here’s a pic of the VC I used. It’s from the 2.4L engine but not the SRT engine as the spark plug bolt holes are...

I think they were M6x1.0. Not sure on length. I did it years ago.

I took the rubber grommets out and just use washers that fit and flange head bolts. Torque them per the sequence. I have never had a leak.

Also worth noting that the stock ball joint recall kits are still out there. These you get the front knuckle and lower arms for $170 a side. Just throwing it out there. I saw you mentioned replacing the front bearings. My axle shafts were so rotted I just pulled the whole front knuckle, wheel...

I used the Moog kit off rock auto. It was a whole lot that had everything. No complaints on the components themselves.

Borla pro xs I believe. It was almost 10 years ago now.

Just do this mod. I did this years ago and haven’t had an issue. https://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Front_Motor_Mount_Bolt

Removing the stock ECU all together works too.

We’re do you post updates on the FD? What did you end up going with engine wise? 2JZ?

I don’t have any sound clips but when my car was NA still I used an eBay brand catback to get new piping since the stock stuff was falling off and hacked the fart can off and put a borla muffler on. It sounded good without getting raspy like the Honda’s with fart cans sound.

Fluidyne (spelling?) used to make an all metal 420a version. You can buy a 4g63 2g rad and have a radiator shop move the inlet and outlet. Aside from that you are looking at more modifications to get something else to work right. Unfortunately the market for the bolt in 420a radiator is super small.

The first section of this is the easiest and is what motomattx is describing.https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/chrysler-dodge/megasquirt-your-neon/

I went through DIYautotune to purchase all the parts. You can purchase a fully assembled unit from them or you can buy a kit and solder it together following along with the assembly guide on msextra.com. I went with the kit because I like projects and found it fun. If you are new to soldering I...

You have to do all the wiring. Unfortunately these never made it to a plug and play for the 420a... was never a real market for it.

DIYautotune is who I bought all my MS stuff through.

On the block near the block to transmission bolt is where I had mine before I did the wire tuck. If you zoom in my the #4 cylinder runner in this pic you will see it.

Diyautotune is having a 10% off sale right now... just sayin lolThe wire tuck on my car was much easier once I had the MS.

Perfect time to do a wire tuck.... just sayin. Looks great man!

It’s honestly worth the money to get the galant front knuckles if you are doing the evo 5-9 brembos. Makes the whole thing a bolt on affair. This is the route I took.

Are the jams and engine bay getting repainted as well? If not and they are still OEM silver I would stick to that just for ease of painting.As for the headliner I used stockinteriors.com for the material and glue over 10 years ago. It still looks brand new. I believe it was 3M glue. You can...

I have found it to be much easier to drop both out the bottom.

Here are a handful from about 2009. I ended up abandoning them even after I had TONS of time into them to get them to fit right and I still had more to go around the headlight area.they looked cool but literally every body line, mounting position, etc needed to be modified. I learned how to...

Did you also look at getting the 2.7L rockers? Those also have oil holes that are aimed at the roller.https://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Rockers

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_tap_bolts_Zinc_plated_class_8.8_steel_8mm_x_1.25mm.aspx

The intake would also need to be flipped.

You should be getting spark during cranking using the 1 main board spark output. I am assuming this is a preassembled kit like biglady had. What solved his issue with spark was adjusting the pots on the main board to get the crank signal to come in appropriately. I would look at the tooth logger...

Donut Media actually mentions it in the video they just released today. Pretty crazy how they go about getting that color. It is a gorgeous blue.

Credit to Malcolmv8 on YouTube for the info on this setup.

Got the fan working on the new Ford PWM module. Works very well. Still need to test it on the road with the car running but it worked fine in the garage.

they do grow up wayyy to fast man. That is for sure.I made the base for the box to sit on so I was able to take a few measurements to make sure she could see inside the lid when I first gave it to her.

Nice! My 2.5 year old daughter loves to sweep up the shop. Today we put a new carb and spark plug on this Troy Bilt cultivator I got at a yard sale a couple weekends ago.She also has her own tool box too.

It’s under the intake manifold by cylinder #4.

I am sure you have come across him, but Bullett (I believe still holds) the record for the highest HP NA 420a. The link below is to what parts he used in that engine.https://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsmgood luck with the build man.

When you go to replace the valve cover gasket there is a specific torque sequence.https://2gnt.com/index.php?d=Replacing_valve_cover_and_spark_plug_gaskets

One thing I have just been living with for quite some time was the amperage draw of my radiator fan when it kicks on from a dead stop. It draws so much amperage when it kicks on that the car will actually stumble a few hundred rpms at idle. To combat this I would have the megasquirt add a few...

Are you going to turbo it in the future or leaving it NA?

An adjustable FPR will not solve the issue of it cutting out. It’s cutting out because the ecu is seeing positive intake manifold pressure.

If it still has the stock ecu controlling the fuel and spark then that’s the issue. The stock MAP sensor can’t read positive intake manifold pressure. It causes the ecu to cut fuel because it thinks somethings wrong.That’s a stab in the dark though. I need more details to help further. Like...

Are you going to run a water to air intercooler?

Yeah it’s a nice system once you get the hang of it. I got mine as a kit and assembled the whole thing so I set all that up as I went. I have had mine in the car for like 9 years now. Really no hardware/software issues.

Glad ya got it going. What’s with the paint? Or is it dirty?

The speed sensor signal is a yellow wire with a white stripe. The signal splits and goes to the stock ECU and up to the gauge cluster. As long as you are still feeding it with power and ground it should work... also depending on how much of the stock harness you have removed.also found this...

^thats correct. That’s how I had mine when I still had the stock gauge cluster installed. For the tach you can use of the of MS outputs and feed that into the stock cluster. I’ll check my old notes in the morning and post how I did it.

I did see that. Glad you at least have spark and fuel going now. Here are the fuel settings I use. Obviously the required fuel will be different for the one you are working on based on injector size.

Yeah you are right. My fault. Did you try it without the resistor?