I distinctly remember those plugs in the door, and they were plugged in. I’ll dig further.What’s weird is when I opened the passenger door for the first time with the battery installed, the auto seatbelt retracted/opened. So it sensed the door opening. It just has never sensed it closed...
Jacked the car up and promptly got distracted.First up was this.Just a quick blip of the throttle. No transmission noise, yay! There's still some gremlins, but eh. One step at a time.After I got it jacked up, I got sick of the mismatched door cards for the door panels. So I popped...
For some reason I legit never thought of this. Doing it piecemeal over a period of time…mind blown. Gonna actually do that.Sounds sarcastic but I mean it. 100% gonna do that.
How do you like that TruBoostX? I know it's a waste of money since my gauges all work fine, but I 100% want to swap my old AEM digital gauges, for all AEM X gauges. TruBoost X, X-series wideband, and etc.
Evo guys use the iridium’s a lot, but they’re used to throwing money at their platform.I’m with Curt and spleen though, just throw some coppers in there and change them as needed. They’re cheap AF enough and well proven. Use BR7ES
Just for giggles though, what’s the symptoms of a clutch fork adjusted too far to the drivers side/an over-engaging clutch system?Also: God I'm so lazy. I would totally pay someone to come pull my damn transmission for me, if there was someone local and willing. ROFL
I’m just not ready to drop the transmission again this weekend so yeah, not happening until I feel like it. Probably a month from now. Lol. Or sooner if I can find a lift/air tools to make it a breeze.But in the meantime, I scored an SSQV IV for $35 locally. I bought it thinking it was fake...
Looks like a KM transmission but I can’t tell. It looks like someone stamped a custom code over the actual spot where it would normally say “KM123” or FM522 or whatever.
That’s why I had it shipped to Tim Zimmer. He measured every single bit. It’s .608” everywhere.Like…as in how I clean the holes? Or literally video me impacting them off?
Woohoo. It’s so new and purdy.Not sure if I’m gonna install it this weekend or not. I hate dropping this f*cking transmission. Lol. But it’s nice I have it.
To answer your question yeah it’s fine to use a 2G TPS. 2G TPS just has the idle switch and TPS in one. You already have that plug and wiring so use that one.
Randomly reminds me I tried playing with two step/als in link and it wasn’t activating. Need to address that.But this is all good info. Keep it coming.
I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. Reaaaaally hoping it's either the flywheel's fault, or the master's fault. Don't wanna count my chickens before they hatch.
Hey guys, I’ve had these for a little while but wanted to see if they would in fact fix the PS leak that I had. These are the two o-rings that go on the upper power steering pump(where the line attaches) to seal the line to the pump. Very common place to leak. These completely fixed the leak at...
I'll measure mine just to do it at this point and post it up. Might see if I wanna post a thread and have others all measure theirs. Ridiculous you can't just give someone a straight answer. I'm sure if ACT or other clutch companies wanted to copy you they'd just do what everyone else does...
Make 250whp reliably first, then step up to a 16G and do low-mid 300’s reliably first. Tuning yourself the whole way. By the time you’re done with that it’ll have taught you the nature of how to keep a DSM running and reliable, and you’ll know intimately what you’ll need to 400HP and beyond.
He actually CC’ed two other people and I think he forgot he did that because at the bottom was his email to two other guys asking “are we actually gonna tell him what the thickness is?” Like it’s some trade secret. lol
The MC is suspect to me, because I can’t prove it’s an OEM unit. It’s also adjusted almost all the way out(to the firewall, no threads left on the pedal). I may pull it soon and just inspect it and see if it’s OEM.I emailed southbend and they were thoroughly unhelpful. They didn’t give me a...
Fires in between the walls can spread quick AF. A lot faster than you can imagine, and without any real outward appearances of a fire. It's the reason fire dept will knock holes in any wall that looks even a little sus, just to make sure. I've seen 2500+ sq foot houses go from "hmm, smoke is...
Fair point.If I'm brutally honest, my worst fear is becoming arrogant or entitled. But I really do appreciate the kind words. It's just nice to finally feel like I'm doing what I'm supposed to do. I spent years jumping job to job, could never seem to hold one down. Even the Chef thing...
Randomly, I bought this a very long time ago for a better coolant overflow system.https://www.ebay.com/itm/355170080358It was like $8 including shipping, and came with the bracket pictured. Original thought was to just drill and tap a hole to mount it, but never got around to doing it due...
I know it's easier said than done, but just for giggles have you measured step height of the flywheel? Paul Volk and a few others have all had issues with new ACT Flywheels being out of spec and causing issues.I can't say for certain mine is stepped incorrectly, but if I get the...
Poked around a little today, and fixed the "misfire". I reset all the settings I could find in ECMLink back to OG(something I should've done a while ago, because this was bought secondhand with a tune already in it), and it must've been an enrichment or SD setting still messing with it, because...
Your clutch fingers look like mine. I am extremely curious what your fix ends up being. Does it fail the clutch drag test? Clutch in, flat surface, rev to 7k?I'm subbing to the thread so I can follow/steal advice and fixes.
I’ve got a bunch of flat rate boxes here (I always keep a bunch for when I sell dsm parts) so I’ll just toss it in a small flat rate box. Easy peasy.Whenever I find it that is. :P
Worth a try. I’m gonna pull codes when I mess with the tune. If it says injector fault, then I’ll believe it.These injectors sat in the car, for like 10 years straight. Lol. I honestly should probably have them cleaned and flowed at this point.
Gonna focus more on the tune this weekend. I feel like as long as I keep from using the clutch it’ll be fine in the short term. I just want to get it ironed out where it’ll idle like a champ and the literal only thing I’ll need to address is actually driving it.It’s got a weird intermittent...
I’m tempted in that case to just wait, and not buy a new master yet until I install everything and double check. Good thing is I can replace the master without pulling the trans. Really hoping it’s the flywheel though.I hope so brotha, for sure.
New flywheel has been checked by Tim Zimmer at .608” all over in every spot. So woot.I’m gonna buy a new OEM clutch master cylinder as well just to eliminate a future problem, and the fact that the rod for it is rusted to the point that I can’t actually adjust it any longer.
Should you bench bleed a new clutch master cylinder like a slave? Is that what you mean by priming?Asking because I plan on replacing my clutch master soon and was curious.