Could be a number of things but I'd start with new spark plugs and wires. I had this same issue when I first bought my dsm and it turned out to be the spark plug wires.
Impact wrench will make quick work of that thing. After working on my dsm for so long without one, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it now. You won't regret buying one.
I agree, ditch the MAF. The stock SD table will point you in the right direction and should allow your dsm to start without any modification. If you're having trouble with idle, a trick I sometimes do is lock the ECU in open-loop and adjusting global fuel until your wideband hits stoich (14.7:1)...
Same here. What's worked well for me is locking in open-loop at idle and adjusting until my o2 starts cycling (narrowband sim)...edit: and for anyone thinking to themselves - "WTF c2ypt1c, stoich is 9.2343434238498573452234234234 on e85, your ecu targets 14.7 on gas!!"
To this I say, your...
Wideband manufacturers provide voltages that you can input into ECMLink. Better yet, ECMLink has many of them pre-defined. This is because these 'variances' are virtually negligible. My point is, a wideband (and therefore wbfactor) can be considered a known variable.I think some things need to...
Injector data is not the only real thing you can use. Widebands exist for a reason, which is why wbfactor is the preferred method to tune your VE table.Airflowperrev is a horrible way to tune since it is literally airflow (which is only as accurate as your ve table) divided by rpm. It is only...
I thought they run a tubular subframe from http://volkmetalcraft.com :hmm:
EDIT: nevermind, just noticed you were talking about the rear diffIt's still a dsm in my book...I love everything about this car
Oh wow, it's even easier than I thought. I was thinking you had to remove the cams to get at them. Here's a tech article on how to do it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-replace-lash-adjusters-lifters.265060/I'd definitely give the 3g lifters a shot...
This is dsmtuners, of course we're going to tell you to do it yourself :DI'm assuming your dsm is stock aside from the mentioned mods (afr and boost gauges) but you really should create a profile so we all know exactly what you're dealing with...Is it running rich while idling or at...
EDIT: actually, shimming is only required when the fork is offset toward the passenger side of center...it looks okay to me. It's hard to say though. http://www.teamrip.com/pivot-ball/Try the rod adjustment and go from there
Combustion engines need three things in order to start: spark, fuel, and compression. Fundamentally, this is your starting point.That said, I'll refer you to this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/
If you're able to bleed the lines without issue I would think the master/slave are okay.You mentioned it was all the way out (I forget which way brings the engagement higher off the floor) but have you tried adjusting the master rod? If not, I'd adjust that sucker completely in the other...
I've actually had some good results using the factory 2g timing map as a starting point for pump gas and the 1g map for e85.Thanks for posting this vegas
Fuel related, yes. Fuel cut related, most certainly not...The issue here was just plain old bad tuning - his AFR was either too rich or too lean because of fuel pressure, causing it to bog down, sputter, etc...A wideband with a datalog would have easily identified this. For the last time, Fuel...
It is a well known fact that fuel cut (in this context) is based solely on airflow, this is not my opinion nor is it debatable. Instead of spreading false information and acting like an authority on the subject, I suggest you do a simple search on the ecmlink forums for 'fuel cut' and maybe...
*public service announcement*
Fuel Cut is not dependent on fuel sufficiency. The ecu simply reads too much airflow and decides to cut injector firing.Couldn't help myself :sneaky:OP, I've experienced similar symptoms with old plug wires...might want to give that a shot.
Hey guys, so I'm (finally) finishing up my swap and didn't realize I needed the awd starter plate. I bolted the trans up and noticed one of the starter holes does not line up on the plate. My question is, can I just drill out the hole and be done with it or am I going to have to drop the trans...
Hey guys, I'd really like to do my own transmission rebuild (for the learning experience and the challenge) but there are some things that are not exactly clear from the FSM. I realize the FSM lists "special tools" but I'm wondering if there are any alternatives. So my questions are:Which...
Update - Jack's supply of EVO3 3/4 forged shift rails are unavailable from Japan, so their conversion kit is currently (indefinitely?) out of stock. I was able to snag a rail through my own means and will begin the tear down/rebuild pretty soon, once I get the rest of the kit parts ordered.
On the GM SD purchase page, it states: "This cable connects the IAT sensor to the factory Intake Temp input pin and the MAP sensor to the factory Baro input pin. So when configuring the ECMLink software, those are the pins you'll need to specify and use."I suggest you dive into the wiki and...
Ah, good call considering this is probably my least favorite part of the swap (drilling out and welding in such tight quarters is a pain).Just wanted to give an update on my progress - I'm glad I waited to weld the rear bracket because I was indeed too far forward. After looking at the...
Brackets welded in:At this point, all that's left is to swap the transmission and axles in. Time to pull the awd trans:Alright, so the plan is to install an evo conversion for the 3/4 hub and slider, weld the center diff, shot peen the gear sets, and set some tight preloads during the...
Yeah, that was my mindset when tacking it on but I decided to call it a night to let it sink in, just in case. My donor is literally 5ft away from my fwd, so I'm just going to check the placement on it tomorrow before welding it on permanently. After seeing some other pics, I'm actually starting...
Thanks again man, it really helped me out:I went with 3.5" x 0.5" for the fronts and 6.0" x 0.5" in the rears and they fit damn near perfectly :hellyeah:My next hurdle is welding the driveshaft carrier brackets. Right now, I have the rear tack welded and I'm wondering if the placement is...
I feed my HX40 with -4AN and drain it with -12AN lines that I manually put together with individual parts (hose and hose ends). Summitracing (among others) has all the parts you need and the lines are super easy to construct. I did the same with my fuel line as well...Anyway, the -4/-12 setup...
Alternatively, a vise could work. If you already have one laying around, you might want to consider this. The upper control arm bushings are fairly large and I was able to vise them in: post #18 This post is pic heavy so you might need to scroll down to find post #18...
Alright, after a nice vacation in Japan, I was finally able to come back and put some work in on the AWD swap.First, I replaced the excessively long front subframe bolts (see...
AWD SWAP TIME!!!Pulling the ebrake cables
Remove the rubber plugs from the cables before pulling, this makes it super easy.Subframe out
I was having issues unbolting the brake lines, even with vise grips, so I heated them up with a blowtorch and they came off in two seconds. Other than...
Alright, I plan on using these dimensions and will report back.
Front - 4" x 1/2"
Rear - 5.5" x 1/2" (maybe 6")My swap is currently underway :thumb: tank bolts are in, need to drop in the subframe bolts next.
Hey gofer, not sure if this was posted somewhere but what size bolts did you use for the subframe? I'd rather just pick them up from the hardware store than pull them from my donor.
Yeah if they're old I would definitely start there. I've had this exact issue and it turned out to be the plug wires. If you're up in the air on which ones to go with, NGK are highly recommended by nearly everyone on here.