At least one of the plastic articulating mount assembly is broken. Both sides have them and have to work in unison or it hangs up on one side. Pushing it forward on whichever side is broken as it attempts to close will keep it aligned. If both are broken you will have to apply force to both...

Check your power and grounds before you go replace everything. Widebands are very sensitive to sharing/loose grounds.If you haven’t read it yet, Ballenger’s downloadable documentation on the setup and features provides a pretty decent level of indication that they spent a good amount of time...

Figured i'd add a bit of useful info on this. I did this mod yesterday and added a set screw per the following instructions. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-filter-fix-for-water-cooled-housings.274917/Couple things to note: Depending on what size bolt you use to retain the modified m20...

Bobby brings up a good way to quickly try height settings. Going to the “tune” tab ( if your firmware version has it) and bumping the z axis down a little mid-print on the first layer will give you a quick and dirty way of determining if it is height based.What software are you using? Maybe...

Maybe I missed it but you never mentioned what type of printing surface you’re using or what brand and type of material you’re using.Don’t get an auto bed leveler. They’re not a plug and play ordeal most of the time because you have to go in and configure firmware and whatnot. It seems like...

I have an ender 3 pro and print pla and petg. People will say use hair spray or painters tape or alcohol. 90% of your adhesion is in your level height. Don’t use a piece of paper or a credit card. Get a set of feeler gauges and experiment. As an example, petg printed at .0025” adheres well...

After contacting gsc, I figured I would offer their response for future searches.“If your protrusion height of your valves is correct and the base circle of your cams is correct then our lifters will not hold your valve open at full extension. You also do not have to put them in at full...

Thank you everyone for your input. @steve ive always been under the impression that the diesel was just a cheap solvent to purge old oil and trash out. Though it does make some sense that it would give a little more than oil due to its viscosity and ability to creep out the lifter’s...

What if everyone has bled lifters down for the past 30 years for no reason (other than to purge contaminants)? Just going to present a scenario here, nobody hang me for it.Argument 1: The FSM says to do it. I don't have a fsm in front of me now, but does it say why? I mean it also has a...

I’ve bled down my lifters for years using various solvents, oils, ultrasonic cleaner, etc. Went to install a set of new gsc lifters today and noticed that their install sheet said something quite the opposite of the standard procedure I’ve used for 10+ years now...

Thank you for the detailed response.

Did you guys ever have trouble adapting to 321 stainless? I’ve been welding for several years and the whole 321/347 filler seems to just be harder to keep a consistent puddle profile. I’ve tried everything I can think of (angle of torch, amperage, flow, pulse settings, etc). For some reason...

The thread you revived is from before some of the forum users were even born. Not ragging on you, just think that’s wild.

Very unfortunate to hear. I learned a lot from him in my earlier days on the forum.

Here’s a few pictures of how I did mine. Moved down and closer to the center console to get away from the cage more. Just tilting the seat with the side nearest the door higher than the other is the fastest and easiest way to gain some clearance and actually doesn’t feel as unnatural as you...

The only way to make it work would be to machine a bronze bushing thinner than the bearing and then press in a seal. A seal alone won’t support the shaft’s load. At the end of the day, you’ll spend way more time and money trying to make it work than just buying another throttle body made for...

Well I’m not, but I just finished up my sim rig and figured I’d post it for anyone who is into sim racing. I’d be happy to share design, materials, cost, my experience with various parts( though it’s not much so far). I got really into formula 1 this year with the Netflix release and started...

From a restoration perspective, all these discontinuations are upsetting but the appeal of these cars has always been in their modification potential. Imo we can make better parts than mitsu for 95% of the things that are discontinued. When you look at it, their original tensioner wasn’t the...

@Paul@RTM @AndrexZI have probably done the most extensive work with ctsv brakes on the forum. It was years ago now so I’ve forgotten a lot of it, but it was significantly more work than expected. MOST of the problems I ran into were due to the 14” diameter though so turning them down to 13”...

This is just an informative post in the event anyone else is ever in a similar scenario to the one I am currently in. QTP has "data sheets" or drawings with some dimensions on their website. One dimension they do not include is the bore or opening diameter as seen below.I purchased a 3.5"...

I have assembled a handful of motors but I’m certainly no expert. I really think people overthink ring gaps. Their sole purpose is for expansion and there is no one size fits all to them. You want them as tight as you can get, but you’re chasing the .001% at that point. It’s like the type...

GMB has two forgings. From what I can tell there’s a traditional style similar to OEM which is the 220 series and the “heavy duty” which is the 215 series. The problem is they don’t offer the 215 series in our size in a solid form. They do have the 220 in our sizes which is the part number I...

I installed a GMB 2200107 in my car over the weekend. I wouldn’t say that I have great faith that it is up to par with factory, and honestly I was too lazy to measure anything, but it is a solid, non-greasable option. My scenario is a bit unique since I have a carbon front half so my u joints...

I considered this also but decided I’d wait a few years. I’ve gone 30 years without it, why get this one when one 3x as good will be out in no time from these two companies battling it out.If anyone has a student email, look into onshape. I’ve used all of the big name modeling softwares and...

Depends if you’re worried about rules or safety. As far as safety goes, a 3 point and airbag is safer than 4,5,6 point on street. Head on collision snaps your neck, harness bar warps with side collision and you get what Tim described, and if you’re full cage you beat your head on the cage in...

Sadly a true Motorsport grade wiring harness is something people will never understand until they make one themselves.https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

What makes OEM so good?

Man I live for garage sales and people saying things like “ I have an old ps2 laying around if you want it”. Glad to see someone will be getting some enjoyment out of an old console!

This part gets DEEP.Some tv’s wig out and don’t produce a picture at all, some scale it horrible and it looks almost too bad to play, and some do just fine. If you’re dead set on getting one, get it and try it out first because any mods or other options are very expensive and probably not...

Goodwill are dang near impossible these days. Most people know their value now and raid goodwill’s daily. I live in a town of about 60k people and all 5 thrift stores are raided every single day by various groups of collectors who have no life or employees that know they can sell them for $40...

I would say video games are my primary hobby and I am relatively well versed in the n64. Probably it’s biggest weakness is it almost requires a crt tv to be worth playing. It only outputs composite so you not only have to solder in a rgb chip to get it compatible with most TV’s but they also...

And they’re a bit of a hassle to get anywhere but from the junkyard. I ultimately went on McMaster and got stainless bolts and some metal bonded sealing washers for mine.

Look into non projected plugs and try a few heat ranges. The idea is that the non projected tips are a little more knock resistant so they widen your timing window a little. Can’t say that I have any empirical data to contribute but I used to go through a ton of plugs cause they were cheap and...

Look into a better plug choice and you’ll probably gain more timing resolution to work with.

Most of the aftermarket companies, even everyone’s favorite “reliable” timkin included, use the same manufacturer for the cast inner race. Someone casts, heat treats, and machines the inner race/hub and sends them out to all the other companies.The other companies machine the outer races...

I built myself a set of ceramic wheel bearings last year. I intentionally bought 3 different bearings for the sole intent of testing the quality difference between each. On a 2g, front bearings are a koyo design, rear are a NTN. If it was me I’d just get any of the generics. They’re all...

A pot blaster from harbor freight is my preferred method.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed your knowledge over the years. I really wish the site was as technical as it used to be when we had vendors fighting to prove their products and people really giving technical input to their setups, but I’m just glad I can still log in regularly and see...

I bought a cheap 3d printer just to experiment around with interior parts and whatnot. It’s turned into one of my main tools for stuff like building brackets and jigs.

Thank you for continuing to support the platform. I’ve said it before so I’m sorry to sound like a broken record, but the main reason I still check into the forums periodically is in hopes of the compression arm release!Edit: a 2g spindle to allow a wider tire is also always welcome.

I have a set of retainers with a peen mark in them to help the indicator tip seat. It still doesn’t fix the problem but the results are more repeatable.

I am pretty confident they are not. The skin is installed and spot welded at the seams. I believe the point where the a pillars merge into the roof skin is brazed together. I know for a fact that the rear section around the quarter windows is brazed together at the merge seam. I took a...

If you’re willing to pull the fender, you could always run it discretely through the lower a-pillar.

https://streetcarrfabrication.com/collections/b2t-engineering/products/radlok-connector-bulkhead...

There are quick disconnect bulkheads for this. I would advise against running it through the firewall near the engine harness. Although unlikely, depending on the quality of your grounds and whatnot, you could introduce electrical noise into your sensor wiring.

Good job Paul. I’ve wondered why nobody had done this yet. You can get those diffs for dirt cheap, (like 700 bucks) brand new if you ever can manage to break one. The only downside is they’re huge and heavy relative to ours.I have a friend with a pretty heavy 70’s vette that dynod just...

I didn’t cause I’m on my phone. I will try and look at it in a few days when I’m back home. My capacitors failed twice and both times my ecu would just reset while driving.

Afrest is just what cell the car is currently targeting in the afr direct access tables. I would look elsewhere for the source.

I’d just bend a cheap set. They make wire style ones but they’ve usually got much less resolution than the traditional style cause they can’t fit 30 of them in one tool. I’ve only rebuilt a 4l60 which didn’t require bending them but that was my game plan.

Interesting point regarding the frequency. Sadly upon further research, it doesn’t look like I am going to find a black and white answer on this. Thank you for your contribution.