The helical cut causes separation at high rpms. 8.5k+ rpms. IF it has a balance shaft with helical cut gears idk if it'll move enough. Who wants to spin a balance shaft motor past 8.5k though?

Great question. Mine are straight cut. My buddy had helical and the gear walked out the pump lol. I really feel that for the helical they need the race shafts

Blows my mind. I street drive mine 9k rpms. I have used the gates blue and hks purple belt. Never a issue. Oil pump functions great too

Yes, beyond. If you can't slide that grenade pin in and out it isn't "technically" correct.

Most definitely, a common misconception. So I had to give a teaching moment lol

The rod bolt tq spec tells the difference. The eagle rods are stronger than the manley rods.

Normal. I was doing this the other day and to reach the .0058-.0063 stretch mark the rod bolts needed to be around 65lb/ft. I had three that were 70lb/ft+. The stretch is more important than the torque number. What lube did you use?

Keep the iridium plugs even though coppers will work fine. The way they fire is different and im anal when it comes to some of the facts about plugs. A set of BPR7es plugs will do you good. Or Br7es and even br7ces will do you good. IMO iridium will be fine. You WILL need a spark plug gap tool...

Your list is fine. Truth be told the 7 bolt block can hold a lot more power than 450whp. Torque is the enemy especially when you have a turbo that spools early and moves a lot of air. Im one of those 7>6 bolt guys and pushed the limits of both. Besides all that if you want 500whp reliable you'll...

Resolved. Remove the white pin from the ptu. Change the tacho output to 3. MAKE sure you press enter.

Im running the aem ems v1 with a 12 tooth disk. My factory rpm gauge is reading off by maybe 1800-2k rpm. I tapped the signal at the ecu from the crankshaft sensor(blue/white) but the car wouldnt start. obviously the signal bypassed and went to the cluster. I disconnected the wire to the ecu pin...

You really need to check your cam and crank sensor. They are responsible for spark and injectors.

I dont think the injectors are the issue, maybe injector latency could be the problem. You could have one of the injectors that flow a tad bit more than the others. Def could be the problem. No issues with driving or WOT pulls i wouldnt stress on it. Look at your spark plugs and see if theres a...

If its tuned on low boost, 240-260hp. If its built head, block and more boost maybe 320-340. Just depends on a lot of variables. If its just turbo'd with no tune and a FCD then it probably makes around 180whp.

7bolt with ecmlink 1g in 2g cas adapter harness utilizing a green top cas with yoshifab trigger disk installed.To correctly run a Yoshifab trigger disk or Triggerdisk.com disk Heres a couple of things to look for.The Triggerdisk.com setting are incorrect in regards to the spark teeth and...

Im using a yoshifab 24 tooth trigger wheel in my green top cas. Car is a built 7 bolt with the ecmlink adapter for the 2ga to 1g cas adapter. I used the Triggerdisk.com settings to set it up in the AEM ems V1. Im still using the stock coils as well so its still wastespark not sequential. I have...

Did you buy a legit set or did you buy a more expensive bosch set?The bosch ones i ordered didnt come in the bosch box, they do say bosch on them and everything aligns up to being bosch. When i bought mine the main thing i looked for was "Brand New" not reconditioned. I paid $300.Now mind...

TBH, thats not bad. Yes mine bounce as well but if you mean bounce crazily no! I was trying to find the thread on your Latencies and yours are kind of high. Message me so we dont cloud up this thread.

That sucks, Mine are still going strong even with dropping the ipw from the evo ecu. They flow exceptionally well.

Should pop up on the bottom as a download after you buy it. Check your download folder as well.

I use the regular washers. If you look at the torque spec without the arp lube you'll see its much higher than 90ft/lbs.I'll go custom age 625+ on my next set, they require a little or torque and ill leave them at what they call for.

Absolutely. Copper spray it as well. Well, at least i do.

Most definitely get both head and block machined when running any gasket but composite. MLS, Cosmetic, felpro mls etc. Also what Arps are you using? New arps i torque down to 110pds/ft. Im not recommending it if you dont want to chance it.Besides all that, i use a felpro composite...

I didnt mess with the anti-lag settings in the vehicle. When the cable comes in you can disable it. The 2 step will work without the anti-lag engaging. Im more than certain you will gain boost just from 2-stepping. Its super responsive.

Did you use the dowel pin on the crank pulley to install the damper.

Look on the EVO forums. They have a injector super merge page. Scroll till you see fic/ID 2150s and start with those latency and work from there.

Just twist it off with pliers. it'll come off easy. I use a evo ecu so its a little different setting them up on pump gas. 0 out your usec table. Use the values they give you in your battery latency voltage table. Also you may want to scale them down to around 1600cc. Takes a little more than...

If you dont mind taking a picture i would like to see. Not saying it doesnt work but i went against it as i couldnt get the to seat properly in the rail without the adapters.

yes sir, they are correct. I was just showing you the type you need. Not saying buy those directly. I did try to find some purple ones to match my bay but, only had red. I bought mine off eBay. The injectors are 48mm and you need the 12mm adapter to make them 60mm. The shorties are 36mm and...

Also what are you tuning with?

The adapter is the part that goes into the rail. Leave the O-ring on it and slide the adapter over the yellow o-ring side. The other side(side that goes into the head) take the purple o-ring off and that black disk off and it goes straight into the head through the seal you already have on the head.

No problem.

You'll need the short adapters as you dont have the "Shorties" injector style. The ones you have are the exact ones i have. You only need the top portion. You remove the o-ring and shelf(black plastic disk)on the injector opening side.https://injector-rehab.com/shop/EV14-11mm-Adaptor-Hat.html...

https://www.spoolinup.com/Stock-Connector-Metal-Retainer-Clips_p_85.htmlhere you go!

Spoolin has them. The company that makes Spoolin coil packs for COP has them in stock. Order a bunch of them.

They work just fine. You do need to run the adapters for them. I run them in my personal car. If you look at a FIC or ID injectors they are already pre-fit with the adapters. When you order adapters they come with filters already fit in them.

Ohhh yes. Once you dial them in your compression numbers should go back up.

No not the brand. Which type. 1g, 2ga or 2gb?

Do you have cams and adjustable cam gears? If so, your issue is fairly easy to correct. You may have some overlap where one of your valves are opening early.

Which cam sensor are you running for them to be failing like they are, supposedly?

Check your coolant temp sensor. Especially when its cold out and your having inconsistent cranking issues during whether change.

I understand to the fullest extent. I started here on this forum damn near reading till my eyes bleed. Tuning, building, the tech articles you name it. This platform(And forum) has helped me become the mechanic/Tuner that i am today. To the point, I am the recommended guy for tuning DSM's in the...

If you run constant pressure to the top of the wastegate (tee'd off to the top port of the gate with the pressure source) , when the wgdc is 0% it will keep the gate closed and your boost will increase. You tee off the bottom port. The ebcs will bleed the pressure off but because the bottom...

Agreed, a lot has to do with the ebcs your using as well.

The boost error correction can sometimes respond too slow and cause spike. Its best to disable it and tune the wastegate duty tables.

Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly. The bottom port on the wastegate should be the only one Tee'd off with the pressure sorce. So, your pressure signal should be tee'd off with the bottom port of the wastegate and the compressor housing on the turbo. The top port on the wastegate only has one...

Whats going on guys. Does anyone have the linear ipw(injector pulse width) patch. Not the minimum ipw patch to lower the minimum amount of ipw. The one with the correction without the latency. I have one of them but it wont show the graph. The one tephra made has a bug in it from the site where...

Double check everything. Brake fluid, (if your awd) tire pressure etc.

Thats kind of crazy to see knock at that amount of timing with medium boost. Try running a reach plug instead of a standard plug. BR8ces.

Reset the timing and see how it runs or, reset the timing and check compression again. If its zero or low compression its head built time.