I think s1s are a great cam personally.. Great midrange. If you don't mind to give up some midrange you'll love the top end of the s2s. Just depends on what you are trying to do and what you prefer.

Twin scroll vs single scroll not to mention it's an evo vs a dsm. Apple's to oranges IMO

I have ran the FP2s, and I can tell you they will loose midrange torque/HP on a dsm... I don't see the GSC S2s being any better in that regard. The only way I could see a GSC S2 not loose midrange is on a Evo 9 MIVEC engine.

We both know you will make any attempt to mock and patronize anything that is said, because that is the game you play...so why BS. Quite honestly I don't have the time or inclination to explain anything to you. If it holds no value to you, then so be it.

VDs are "fairly" accurate when configured correctly vs a dynojet in most cases. With that being said not all dynos are created equal, so its a wash either way. The point is using the same variables and the same software you can give a good indication on how big of a difference in general (and...

50T at 3600 was at 15-16 pounds of boost FYI.

Didn't say mine didn't make power up top for what it was. It was just lazy, and did spool significantly slower.

LMFAO you can't read. We could have pushed it to 28-30 psi and broke 500, however owner didn't want to push it at that point since we were running out of intercooler on pump gas. Even at 30+ PSI at 500+ WHP it would not change the power delivery up to 5K...and that is the point for those that...

18g is not much different from a 16g, only 2MM difference on inducer. They spool almost identical. 18g just has a bit more peak flow. If the 18g sucks with a clipped TD05H, you think a slightly smaller compressor wheel that flows less will be any better? 10 degree clip cost me 200 RPM of...

got something for you twin scroll people and for those that are skeptical of the twin scroll evo turbos. Wanted to post something and show the difference between the ever loved Holset and a stock Evo 7 turbo VD. These VD's are taken at the same time, in the same city (virtually same road)...

I will be as well when I get some cash flow. honestly probably late next year... call it a winter project.

you don't want a clipped 16g in a 7cm housing. I actually had an 18g with a 10 degree clip on the turbine and it sucked for response. My T04E 50-trim actually felt more responsive and made more power from 3600+.

little bit of an old thread. however I have had the FP2s in my Evo 3 (similar to 2g dsm), and had GSC S1s in my Evo 7. What I an say it depends on what you value most. Alot of people dont mind the loss of midrange and value the top end pull of an aggressive 272 cam. However after having both...

There are actually quite a few Evo 9s making over 400 WHP on the stock turbo....That is actually true. I made 400 WHP on pump gas on my evo 7 w/10.5 housing @ 30 pounds of boost in Japan. However just because a twinscroll Evo can do it does not mean its apples to apples comparisons when...

I wouldn't try the RS-3 If you care about wet handling. They do not perform well in the wet. I went through two sets on my evo. For your price range I liked the Kumho XS, Advan Neova AD07s, or the Direzza Z2 Star Specs. I have also heard the Potenza RE050 is also a good choice.

I loved my 3-port grimspeed. I made 400/400 on my twin scroll Evo 8.5 turbo on my JDM Evo 7 with a power curve to die for. Good luck with the build!

I ran COP with CDI's for a while. I had 2 different MSDs, and a Dynatek CDI. Eventually all of those CDI's bit the dust. Just not a reliable solution IMO compared to OEM. I switched back to oem wires/coils and never had any issues at 32 psi. Stock works well for 99% of the DSMers out there...

even the larger turbine and housing doesn't seem to be holding power much better in higher RPM. ECU controlled boost solenoid helped a lot of my issues on my Evo with that.

Gofer is the man, and has an impressive build. I will admit I do think his also does spool quite slow but he makes impressive power. I hit 20 PSI @ 3700 with FP2s, JMF Street SMIM, DNP manifold, Q45 TB, 28x12.5x3.5 bar and plate intercooler, etc. However with all that being said I had the 7cm...

Ya it seems that the combination of the turbine wheel & 8 cm housing is most likely the culprit. I knew the 6sl2 sized turbine was going to create slightly more lag, but damn is that a lot. Honestly its about 400 RPM slower than my FP2, SMIM, 68 HTA TD05H build. Not much faster than the FP...

holy crap is that thing laggy.

Lol. Ya man don't post too much. Just don't want to deal with trolls here or on evo123. I just have better things to do with my time. Ya I had the s259 in a .55 bolt on housing. I did have the larger 74/64 turbine in mine. The s200sx-56 is a totally different turbo with turbine wheels...

Ahh ok you have the newer version then. fair enough. Still can't believe BEPs prices though.

I agree. The advantages in power delivery on a twin scroll setup are superior for a street/auto-x car IMO. For someone looking specifically for this, I think its a viable option, if they want to sink a bit more money than your standard DSM 20g setup.

The BEP S200 series turbos (aka S256, S259 etc) are a different turbo with different turbine wheels than the BW/Aierwerks versions the OP is talking about. The .55 BEP housing will not work FYI.

Jus..I understand the OP has solved his question. However I remember having a discussion about TD06SL2 turbine on how it was not as reliable as the TD05H, and it seemed you prefered the TD05H as a clipped variant over the SL2... Has your thoughts on the new SL2 wheels changed? Or for those...

on my 3 different early Evos (similar to 2g dsm), and my Evo 7 I could never get above 16 MPG with strictly in-town driving. My average was 13-15 MPG on 93 pump. My setups ranged from stock to lots of mods and fully mapped.

so it appears flares can be added, but the original fender cannot be flared? ...but can be cut if it does not pass the vertical plane of the hub into the chassis? If I reading this correct you can cut that 1" or so hanging part of the fender (but not into the unibody) and add flares? So why are...

after reading the rule book about modification of the rear fenders...it appears you can roll the rear fenders only (no pulling), but cannot cut the rear fenders and put flares on it because it is part of the unibody? I assume that is why all the SM DSM cars tires stick way out of the fenders...

not ALL JMF's sacrifice significant low end and midrange for higher end airflow. The JMF street manifold is a good compromise and outflows the Evo 3 manifold. I did not have any noticeable loss of low/midrange, and increased airflow above 6K even on the 16g (for the short time I had it on...

looks decent.

I don't know why people are going crazy over this manifold. A JMF SMIM outperforms, and outflows this any day of the week and twice on sunday. I have had both.

I would go with the 7163.the new EFR 7163 with the new MFT tech is really performing well. Apparently it spools like a 7064 but flows 60 lb/min. That is HX35 territory! I have seen 550 WHP on an STi, and 3500 RPM to 20PSI on a single scroll .85 housing already (on an EJ25, so take that into...

impressive to say the least.

take some measurements of the bracket on the cable. That will be your rough width, and length. Get an aluminum piece with those dimensions approximately 4-5MM thick. Choose a mounting location that is out of the way that is straight behind it (distance isn't critical as long as there is...

get all four wheels up in the air. Preferably a lift, put it in first and let out the clutch, and you can troubleshoot, and trace your noise or broken part(s). Honestly it could be just a broken driveshaft cage, or it could be as bad as a broken front diff etc. hard to say from your short vid.

if your car misfires the wideband will go extremely lean. The cylinder is pumping out mostly air and causes a spike in the AFR... It is a false lean indication FYI.

HKS hi-power has a deep mellow sound, and isn't too aggressive. However it isn't the best flowing muffler, but good quality.

Topline is generally substandard parts and not very good. I do not know any horror stories on their valves. However I don't know anyone who has ran them. I would use the OEM ones and have them recut or lapped as needed.

start reading the forum and www.vfaq.com. Let the education begin!!

+1 walbro 450

People are on crack if they think the HX35 with the bolt on BEP housing will make 500 WHP on 93+meth. Only fully supported maxed out setups on E85/e98/C16 at 35+ PSI are making that in the small .55 AR housing with the HX35. Definitely need the T3 .70, or 12CM in a true twin scroll setup with...

Just curious if anyone knows if there is any laws regarding exhausts that do not exit out the factory location in Alaska?

its been quite a few years, but if memory serves me correct soldave and I changed one on his car with the transmission on...and it was not a pretty sight but it held.The hardest part is getting the seal past the flywheel (or flex plate). You might be better pulling the transmission.

output shaft seal. not an easy change in the car, but can be done.

are you losing any fluid at all? Any leaks in your clutch hydraulic system (i.e. slave cylinder)? Has your clutch been adjusted properly? throw-out bearing changed?

if using a 4g63 head on a 86.5-87MM bore you "should" re-work the quench/squish area of the head...but you can do without I guess. Like I said not enough material to warrant doing an overbore....1.5MM isn't going to be any significant difference.

If he over bores a significant amount the head will have to be reworked to match the chambers. Not enough material and cost efficient enough to warrant an overbore in his case.

bore size doesn't really matter in your case. If you were boosted I would stay as small as possible in order to leave as much material around the cylinders as possible and ensure block flex stays to a minimum. As far as compression goes, if it stays N/A I would look into much higher...

just be thankful you aren't pulling an 80 pound x-fer case off of an Evo 8/9. Those are a PITA