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2G timing belt help please

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mitsubro93

5+ Year Contributor
92
4
Apr 24, 2018
Bolingbrook, Illinois
Hi so I am doing my timing belt, water pump, cam crank sensors, tensioner pulley and balance shaft belt. So I already have the new water pump installed I installed the new crank sensor and I installed the new tensioner pulley. Now there are a few questions I have. For the tensioner pulley bracket with the 12mm bolt how tight am I supposed to tighten that? Also my crankshaft trigger plate right behind the crankshaft sprocket makes my balance shaft pulley rotate as in it touches it this cant be good right? my uncle told me thats not how its supposed to be I dont think it is either why is it like this? Another thing when I was trying to break my crank sprocket bolt loose which I have yet to do still I tried using that md tool to hold it but it didnt work because at tdc there is a small pin for the crank pulley in the way and I accidentally threw it very slightly off the tdc mark but I put it right back is this bad?
 
That was a tough read, but here is what I gathered. Also here is a link to VFaq: http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html specifically look at: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

For the tensioner pulley bracket with the 12mm bolt how tight am I supposed to tighten that?

Are you talking about the pulley that has the 2 holes in it for tensioning, or the bracket itself? There is a tool you can use to tension it, you can also pry it and tighten, you can also use snap ring pliers or a pair of 90 degree pliers. Obviously for the bolts, use a wrench or socket. If you do not own ratchet wrenches, get some. Fantastic on a DSM.

Also my crankshaft trigger plate right behind the crankshaft sprocket makes my balance shaft pulley rotate as in it touches it this cant be good right?

Can you post a pic of the area you mean? The BS is driven by the crank pulley, behind the trigger plate.

Another thing when I was trying to break my crank sprocket bolt loose which I have yet to do still I tried using that md tool to hold it but it didnt work because at tdc there is a small pin for the crank pulley in the way and I accidentally threw it very slightly off the tdc mark but I put it right back is this bad?

That's fine, just don't crank it very far so you don't crush a valve. As far as breaking the sprocket free, good luck without the timing belt on. IIRC, it has a 6 point outside and a half inch drive center. Could put a big wrench on the outside of the bolt against the frame then use a half inch drive breaker bar to break it open. Personally I used my old timing belt, wrapped it around the motor mount and vice gripped the teeth together then used a breaker bar, it was outside the car but you should be able to do it inside.
 

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Thanks for the response! Okay so to get started yes I was indeed speaking of that pulley with the two holes that you use as a leverager to apply tension to the timing belt. Well lemme explain how i did it I used that extreme psi tool which locks into those two holes abd attached a 8mm wrench to it spinned it counterclockwise and as my hand was holding it at a good tight tension my other hand tightened the pulley center bolt after that tight. Then i put auto tensioner in took the pin out waited fifteen minutes spun engine tried to put pin back in it went in perfectly so that job was done correctly. Also for that whole BS thing imagine this because the job is already done and im driving the car again so i cant show u a pic but imagine this. Know the balance shaft tensioner pulley? Basically you can move that up and down for tension on bs belt with a screwdriver or somethin as you know now when i FIRST opened my motor there was no tension on that bad boy causing it to just come in contact with my crank trigger plate. Oh and as far as that whole crank sprocket thing I dont know how you did it with a timing belt that thing is torqued 86 ft/lb I just used an impact wrench on it and it worked perfectly did the same thing to put it back on timing marks never moved. Another last note that md tool used hold the crank sprocket should have accounted for that small pin used to line up the harmonic balancer otherwise it would have been perfect that way too to remove crank sprocket.
 
Thanks for the response! Okay so to get started yes I was indeed speaking of that pulley with the two holes that you use as a leverager to apply tension to the timing belt. Well lemme explain how i did it I used that extreme psi tool which locks into those two holes abd attached a 8mm wrench to it spinned it counterclockwise and as my hand was holding it at a good tight tension my other hand tightened the pulley center bolt after that tight. Then i put auto tensioner in took the pin out waited fifteen minutes spun engine tried to put pin back in it went in perfectly so that job was done correctly. Also for that whole BS thing imagine this because the job is already done and im driving the car again so i cant show u a pic but imagine this. Know the balance shaft tensioner pulley? Basically you can move that up and down for tension on bs belt with a screwdriver or somethin as you know now when i FIRST opened my motor there was no tension on that bad boy causing it to just come in contact with my crank trigger plate. Oh and as far as that whole crank sprocket thing I dont know how you did it with a timing belt that thing is torqued 86 ft/lb I just used an impact wrench on it and it worked perfectly did the same thing to put it back on timing marks never moved. Another last note that md tool used hold the crank sprocket should have accounted for that small pin used to line up the harmonic balancer otherwise it would have been perfect that way too to remove crank sprocket.
Good grief your posts are difficult to read. Please reread them.
Crank sprocket is more than 86 lbs. Please get a copy of the factory service manual (FSM). It has all the values.
And what are you talking about twith the crank sprocket tool? Is there a question there?
 
okay well I will for sure re check my crank sprocket torque specs. When I meant the crank sprocket tool I mean this https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI...Wn9qg:sc:USPSFirstClass!60440!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
Also no I did not have any questions about the crank sprocket tool I was just pointing out that when the engine is at TDC you cannot properly bolt the tool down because the pin on the crank pulley used to line up the harmonic damper is in the way.
 
okay well I will for sure re check my crank sprocket torque specs. When I meant the crank sprocket tool I mean this https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI...Wn9qg:sc:USPSFirstClass!60440!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
Also no I did not have any questions about the crank sprocket tool I was just pointing out that when the engine is at TDC you cannot properly bolt the tool down because the pin on the crank pulley used to line up the harmonic damper is in the way.
That pin is removable. Engine also does not need to be at tdc just to break that bolt free
 
Thank you pauleyman for the knowledge on that now I know for the future that the pin can come out. All i did to torque down my crank sprocket was use my impact and after I used the impact i put my cam lock in with the t belt on and i used my big breaker bar and i tightened it to about as tight as I would a lug nut so like 80-90 pound feet roughly.
 
Guessing at torque values on an engine isn't going to cut it, that only leads to parted out cars after engine failure, impact guns are not for torquing critical engine fasteners either.
 
After my crank bolt came loose, I will use some thread locker on it now and torque per the FSM.
You will have a bad day some day if you don't torque that down correctly, when the crank pulley walks forward enough to come off of the keyway.....then it's all over in a instant.
 
Thank you pauleyman for the knowledge on that now I know for the future that the pin can come out. All i did to torque down my crank sprocket was use my impact and after I used the impact i put my cam lock in with the t belt on and i used my big breaker bar and i tightened it to about as tight as I would a lug nut so like 80-90 pound feet roughly.
If this is a manual car you're working too hard. Put the car in gear, wheels on the ground. Turn the steering wheel so you can have access through the fender liner and torque that bolt.
 
Okay ill re-torque that but how do I stop the engine from spinning just use the cam lock? Also when I installed my new crank angle sensor I could not get the clips to go through their respective holes. Will this present a problem later like my crank sensor getting caught in the timing belt?
 
Oh to answer my own question pauleyman said put the car in gear thats how the engine wont spin thanks.
 
Do not ever try to turn the crank with the cam gears locked, it will cause the timing belt to jump at the crankshaft, its not able to hold that kind of torque.
 
Thats good to know but thats how i originally tightened it when i was doing my timing belt and it looked like my crank moved slightly but after I finished and rotated the motor six times i was still at tdc on my crank and everywhere else. Maybe the crank sprocket jst settled.
 
Okay ill re-torque that but how do I stop the engine from spinning just use the cam lock? Also when I installed my new crank angle sensor I could not get the clips to go through their respective holes. Will this present a problem later like my crank sensor getting caught in the timing belt?

Yes that is an issue, the wires need to be held back so they do not enter the timing belt.
 
Oh to answer my own question pauleyman said put the car in gear thats how the engine wont spin thanks.

Yep, that is your best bet. And...you don't want the car to move while you're tightening the crank pulley bolt - be safe! If for some reason you can't do it with the car all 4 wheels on the ground, then in addition to being in gear, also have someone hold the brakes down and/or chock the wheels that are on the ground. All 4 on the ground is safest.
 
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Yeah even if its in gear its gonna roll so ill just ask my brother or my friend to firmly press the brake while i torque that nut man but you guys were really helpful I appreciate the help.
 
Any tips to torque for the Auto guys?

Wedge something between the bell hosing and converter to hold it in place, I use a small flathead screw driver and bent the tip so I could insert it in the starter teeth. Screw driver stops the crank from turning and you can properly torque the crank bolt without messing up the belt or timing.
 
Remove the access plate on the bottom of the transmission and insert a long screwdriver or metal dowel rod in between the bolts in the torque converter to hold the engine in place, that or buy the flywheel holding tool and use that to hold the crankshaft.
 
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