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Techboy's 99 4G63

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-AN HP FUEL FEED LINE BUILD

With the undercoating done, now it was time to get going on all things fuel related. I wasn't originally planning to do this, but I decided last minute to order AN fittings and rebuild the HP feed line.

On the left is the OEM line, on the right is all the new parts.
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I first measured and cut the amount of fuel line I needed.

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Twisted the AN end onto the fuel line.

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Loaded it up in this holder I made.

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Threaded in the swivel end of the AN fitting.

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Installed!

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Repeated the process for the other end and then moved onto installing the metric to AN adapters.

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20 minutes later and I got a fresh HP fuel feed line ready to go!
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Since I see this car often enough I sometimes forget how much work you have done to it over the years. Really carrying the torch for DSMers these days.

-Erik

(I remembered my log in info on the first try!)
 
Since I see this car often enough I sometimes forget how much work you have done to it over the years. Really carrying the torch for DSMers these days.

I feel like this is the last/necessary step before putting down some serious power. Can't wait.
 
GAS TANK AND SHIELD CLEAN UP

We're getting close to the gas tank install now. If you've been following this swap, you probably noticed several photos back this is what the tank looked like when it came out of the Talon.

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Ain't no way I was installing that in the car looking like that, so it was time for a good cleaning. I was VERY relieved when I dropped this tank to discover it was just a plastic tub. On another (older) car I restored I had to have a metal gas tank restored. I had to send it out to have it cut in half, restored and welded back together and it wasn't cheap. This is much preferred. Hauled it outside for a Simple Green bath.

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Same tank I swear. :thumb:

I guess a previous owner was not able to get the metric 1.50 fitting off and so he just cut the line and left the fitting for me. Unfortunately for me, even with a good set of flare nut wrenches I couldn't get it to budge either and I didn't want to torque crazy on it b/c I don't want to break the feed line tube. Gonna have to get a torch on that later...

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While I was at it, I decided to work on the gas tank shield as well. It's been pretty cold here in PA lately, so I took this project to work with me to work on after hours in the shop where it's much warmer.

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what did you make that AN plate out of? I'm getting ready to tackle a few lines for my feed and AFPR with zero prior experience and that thing makes the job look easy!

I made it from scrap acrylic at work. I drew it in CAD and cut it out. I saved the file too. If you're using -6AN size I can make you one if you want.

If you've never used them, check out this 5 minute YouTube vid from Jegs - tells you all you need to know.
 
I made it from scrap acrylic at work. I drew it in CAD and cut it out. I saved the file too. If you're using -6AN size I can make you one if you want.

If you've never used them, check out this 5 minute YouTube vid from Jegs - tells you all you need to know.

If you could make me one that'd be amazing! I'm running -6 from the stock fuel filter to the rail, and again from the rail to an aem afpr. Been watching quite a few vids and it looks pretty straightforward, but any tool to make the job easier :thumb:
 
GST TO GSX FUEL PUMP REWIRING

With the tank just about ready to do it, it's time to get into some nitty gritty. I hope what I post up here helps some people in the future b/c I spent a lot of time researching this to make sure I got it right the first time. Electrical work doesn't really phase me at all, but every time I looked into what I had to do for the step I was having a hard time understanding what was going on. The most common diagram you see in relation to the AWD swap is the one below. What was throwing me off was this diagram below shows 2 wires on the 2nd AWD Sender harness, and mine had 4 wires.
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After a lot of looking and punching in different combos of keywords I finally found the diagram below. I'm not sure if there's a difference in different year wiring harnesses on these cars or what - my donor was a 97 Talon and the wiring matched this diagram instead. Mine had the 4 wires coming off the 2nd Sender harness shown in the lower right corner.

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I wanted to keep my harness looking as original as possible. So, I wanted to do it in such a way that it wasn't all hacked up and spliced back together with aftermarket connectors. My GST does not have ABS, so the first thing I wanted to do was get rid of all those wires. Because I wanted to keep the OEM connectors, it was time to do some de-pining. With a small screwdriver, you can remove this brown plastic clip/wire holder thingy.
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Using a small nail, or something similar you can release the tiny clip that holds the connectors in place. If you've never done it before, it takes a bit of practice. This wasn't my first time.

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Pulled out the 4 related to ABS, and kept the 4 related to fuel pump.

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By doing so, I could get rid of all of this ABS stuff:

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When I pulled the harness out of the donor, I wasn't sure what all I needed at the time, so I just a cut a whole bunch. Now I had to splice out what I actually need. The 2 wires on the left will eventually go to the 2nd sender, the two in the middle are the other two that go to the 2nd sender, and by keeping the OEM connector and de-pinning what I don't need, I realized I could actually keep them as-is without cutting and they'll just plug in like OEM. The two on the right will power the actual pump, and everything on the far right can go.

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Here's what I was left with. Again, you can see the two you need, but don't necessarily have to cut if you retain the OEM harness.
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Now, let's take a look at the GST wiring. Here's what we got, there's 4 total connectors on the fuel harness. For this step you can ignore the tank pressure sensor and the evap solenoid. We're just gonna be working with the 2 pin fuel pump and 3-pin sender connectors.
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Just as a quick aside. My car is already running and aftermarket pump and injectors, so I had previously done the fuel pump re-wire mod. If you're still stock you won't have this relay and additional wiring. If you want to add it in (now's a good time), use the 2nd wiring diagram posted above.
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I cut the 3-pin connector first. You'll have a yel/blk, yel/blu and thin black (gnd).

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I just soldered those to the corresponding wires/colors on the AWD harness.

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Shrink tube applied for a secure connection.

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Then I moved over to the 2-pin fuel pump connector. This is pretty straight forward. There's a blue/blk that is your power, and a thick blk/wht that is your ground.

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Soldered them up.

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That's it. Everything connected up, should look like this. Both my connectors are the original OEM connectors from the donor car, other than the fuel pump re-wire MOD done previously, everything is stock, so anybody looking would be none-the-wiser. I'm not trying to hide the fact that this car has been swapped, I just like when everything is plug and play.

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FUEL TANK INSTALL

Cleaned up the pump hanger and sender. They were pretty rusty looking.

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Installed new fuel lines all the way around.

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Also took a few minutes to clean up the filler neck.

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A little wire wheeling ...

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A fresh coat of new silver paint.

Photo comparison: The 98-99 neck on top. The 95-97 on bottom.

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Use a square section of aluminum and a jack to put the tank up. It's not heavy with no fuel in it, but it was way easier to get the straps installed with the tank supported.

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With the tank installed I bolted up the filler neck.

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I poured 4 gallons of gas in the tank and got a little creative with a makeshift seat. Dropped the battery back in the car and turned the key for the first time in a long time. Happy to report she fired right up. I was able to check all lines for leaks and all was good. :rocks: Closer to GSX life everyday.

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On to rebuilding the rear subframe.
 
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On your fuel pump hanger...........not sure if that straight an6 fitting is going to fit under the metal cover under the back seat when you go to finish it up/put interior in at the end. A reg cheap 45 or forged 45 will work. Figured I'd let you know now so you can round up what you need. But yeah take a look into that.
 
On your fuel pump hanger...........not sure if that straight an6 fitting is going to fit under the metal cover under the back seat when you go to finish it up/put interior in at the end. A reg cheap 45 or forged 45 will work. Figured I'd let you know now so you can round up what you need. But yeah take a look into that.

Everything fit just fine. The feed line I built was pretty close to identical to the OEM line. Thanks for the concern and heads up though! :thumb:

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SUBFRAME TEAR DOWN

OK, so now I need to back up a little bit in time ... back to the summer. While everything that I've been posting has been going on, I've also been starting to chip away at rebuilding the rear subframe in the background. I started way back in the early summer by disassembling it first.

Here's a shot of what I started with once removed from the donor car.
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I immediately ran to trouble getting some this thing knocked apart. I'd say at this point in my life I have a pretty well established garage as far as tools go and what I'm capable of, but suspension components will often rust inside the rubber grommets and whatnot making them almost impossible to take apart. Lucky for me my father-in-law is a full time mechanic and owns his own shop. So I loaded it up on my trailer and headed over there for some heavier duty tools rather than fight with it.

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A few hours later:

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And back home we go:

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Time to start grinding all the dirty and grim off the subframe structure.

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One of the first things I noticed about this subframe is the marking on it. Seems to suggest that it came from a junkyard. I don't know anything really about the history of the donor car I bought other than it was a 97 Talon and it came outta New York. Not sure why I would have had it's rear replaced, but those are the types of markings that are typical from a boneyard. Anyone know a "Todd Schafer"? ... :idontknow: ROFL

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My wire wheel has been getting a ton of use lately! My neighbors think I'm crazy.

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Time for a fresh paint.

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This "foreshadowing" picture was just a few days before I started to really rip into my car.

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LOWER CONTROL ARM REFRESH

When I disassembled the rear subframe, I had a difficult time getting the long lower control arm bolts out. Actually, I couldn't, they were seized in the rubber bushings, and I had to cut the bolts and use a torch to get them to come the rest of the way out. Of course, once you use a torch on rubber that pretty much destroys the bushing. So I had to order some new lower control arm bushings. I had a really hard time finding these to order by themselves. Maybe I was looking in the wrong places. But the usual STM and Extreme, or Mitsu didn't have them. You can get them in entire kits, or urethane kits if you want to go that direction. I didn't want to do the whole rear sub in urethane bushings, just select joints, so it took me a bit to track two of these puppies. Finally found them.

New and Old:

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Old bushings pressed out:

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Pressing new ones in:
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Then I did what I've doing with everything, ground them down and freshened them up.
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REAR DIFF REFRESH

Continuing with the theme of working on the rear subframe I turned my attention to the rear diff next. Like everything else, it was completely grimy, so I started with a grinder and followed it up with some Simple Green.

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You can see in this picture just how grimy it was.

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Here it is all cleaned up.

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Time for paint.

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I was going to just leave the diff cover alone, but I discovered I had some aluminum paint left from a previous project, so I figured what the heck.

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Last thing I did was jump on Extreme's site and ordered up some new fill and drain plugs and new axle seals.

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AWD REAR AXLES

While I was working on the rear diff I was simultaneously working on the axles. They were really dirty too.

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I wasn't sure if these were OEM axles or not, I was really hoping they were. After cleaning all the grim off, I could see that Mitsu axle green.

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One thing I am a tad nervous about .... on the axle on the right you can see a shield at the end of the shaft that makes a nice tight seal against the axle seal on the diff. The axle on the left is missing that for some reason. My car only sees nice weather and is garage kept so hopefully it won't be a problem, but I might to take that back apart down the road and install one if I can manage to get my hands on one.
 
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This post isn't so much a build update, but really just some pics of some of the things I've had powdercoated during this process. It probably seems like from the pics I spend a lot of time clean things up and painting them myself (which I do), but I also send some things out to be done.

I had the gas tank straps blasted and powdercoated:

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Had a set of 3G tubular upper control arms powdered in silver:

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All of the rear exhaust hangers. I hate when the rubber grommets are rusted on there.

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And the front and rear sway bars:

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And a close up of the finish:

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Also had both of the under car exhaust shield sand blasted and epoxy coated in a light grey. Epoxy coatings hold up against the heat a little bit better than powdercoating - not that these get real hot, but they just look nicer redone.

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This post isn't so much a build update, but really just some pics of some of the things I've had powdercoated during this process. It probably seems like from the pics I spend a lot of time clean things up and painting them myself (which I do), but I also send some things out to be done.

I had the gas tank straps blasted and powdercoated:

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Had a set of 3G tubular upper control arms powdered in silver:

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All of the rear exhaust hangers. I hate when the rubber grommets are rusted on there.

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And the front and rear sway bars:

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And a close up of the finish:

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Also had both of the under car exhaust shield sand blasted and epoxy coated in a light grey. Epoxy coatings hold up against the heat a little bit better than powdercoating - not that these get real hot, but they just look nicer redone.

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Who do you use for powdercoating? The finish on my valve cover is already chipping and I haven't even installed the motor yet (damn engine enamel...). I'm thinking about just having it done right before I finish this project up.
 
Who do you use for powdercoating? The finish on my valve cover is already chipping and I haven't even installed the motor yet (damn engine enamel...). I'm thinking about just having it done right before I finish this project up.

I used Hoffman Powdercoating in MaCungie PA. https://www.hoffmanpowdercoating.com/ Check out his gallery page. The owner's name is Jeff. I've used 3 different powdercoaters since I really got heavy into cars. Jeff is by far the best, but that comes a cost - that cost being time. He is SUPER busy all the time, sometimes he can be 3 to 6 months out. So, you really have plan accordingly. Whenever I do I project I take the stuff I want coated immediately and drive it over to him so he can have it while I'm doing the work I need to on my end. His prices are fair and he's super particular which I really like. I've been with him almost 6 years now, he knows me well and I've sent him quite a bit of business.
 
REAR HUB ASSEMBLY REFRESH

After cleaning up the rear diff and the axles, I wanted to tackle the rear hub assembly. For some reason I was putting this off like the plague, but it really wasn't too bad to do once I got into it.

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Used some pliers to bend the rear dust shields back into shape in various places.

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Took them outside and started wire wheeling. My 2nd hobby ROFL

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It was amazing the amount of paint that just flaked off of these things.

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Time for a fresh coat of new paint.

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Last, I reinstalled the axles with some new grease and fresh Mitsu castle nuts & cotter pin I ordered up from ExtremePSI. Spent some time with the wire wheel getting all the rust and crud out of the wheel studs too.

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REAR SUSPENSION

The thing I really needed to button up before I could the subframe back together was the suspension. I've been running Tokico blue / Eibach combo on my car for almost 2 decades and it's been a great reliable setup. I figured rather switch out all my front suspension as well, I was just swap out my current Tokicos for the beefier GSX Blues and basically keep it the same as it's been. If anyone is curious - the GST version is the HU3534 .... the GSX version is the HU3533.

Strut / Spring combo from the GST: (I had painted the Blues red at one point in time)

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New Blues to the right along with new strut mounts.

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My bump stops were completely disintegrated to almost nothing. You'll notice I wasn't running a dust shield on my setup, I'm thinking maybe that was a mistake. So, I had to order new bump stops. I took me a lot of looking and research to find a set I thought would work. I couldn't find OEM ones available, maybe they are and I didn't look at the right places. I ended ordering some aftermarkets from 1A Motor.

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Here they are mounted on the new Blues:
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I had an old set of OEM dust shields laying around, so I put them on instead of using the ones that came with the aftermarket kit.

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All back together with my Eibach's back on.

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After I had them all back together I had the thought about whether or not I should have trimmed those bump stops down a bit. I know it's common practice to trim bump stops down with lower springs. I'm guess I'm gonna find out when I hit some bumps. I might have to take the rear shocks back out in the future and trim them. Hopefully not.
 
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My favorite active build thread! Love watching the progress and motivates me on mine.

Thanks for following along! Glad you're enjoying it. I finished installing the subframe this past weekend, so I'll have pics coming very soon of that whole process. Stay tuned. :rocks:
 
SUB FRAME ASSEMBLY - PART 1

So excited. The time has finally come to start putting this subframe back together.

Started off by making a few purchases first. I picked up Energy Suspension Poly bushings for the sway bars, Moog Greasable sway bar end links, and a new set of lower control arm hardware from Mitsu since the other pretty much got destroyed during the disassembly process. Believe or not, I think those 4 bolts cost me more than anything else.

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Here's a closer look at the greasable end links from Moog. Usually I try to stay with OEM parts as much a possible when it makes sense. The OEM Mitsu links where not greasable and I cut them during disassembly. I guess after 20 years of being on the car they were just all seized up.

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Here they are installed. The heads are bit "bulkier" than the OEM ones, so they were little tricky to get in there and bolted into place, but I managed after some wrestling.

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Now, before I went ahead and reinstalled the control arms, I took the time to thoroughly coat the new hardware in anti-seize. On the off-change I ever have to take this apart again it'll hopefully be a whole easier. Or maybe it'll be easier on my son in 40 years when he's restoring it again ... LOL.

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Here's the bolts reinstalled and torqued into place via the specs in the Mitsu manual.

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I was a little ticked to find out this pic was blurry once it was off my phone. Oh well. Here they are installed.

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Next up, I remounted the freshly coated sway bar w/ the new bushings.

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I started by bolting the bar up to the sway bar links first and torquing to spec.

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Then I installed the new bushings to the subframe.

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The last thing I did was flip the whole frame over and re-install the rear diff.

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It's only 10 pics, but it's a ton of progress. I'm real happy with how this is looking and coming out. In Part 2 I'll finish bolting everything up to the subframe.
 
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