Uh oh, an oil debate is coming....

Use what you feel comfortable with. If you've been running Royal Purple 10w30, why switch it up just because someone on a forum/social media site told you to? Has the RP oil caused any issues? Are you happy with your current oil pressure levels? Unless you're addressing an issue with either of those questions, it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Well my oil light comes on at an idle. Not all the time but about 7 out of 10 times. Someone said probably the oil is too thin considering it calls for 20w 40. I intend on using RP but just trying to figure out if it should be thicker. Oil level is perfect, I did an oil change, pump is good.

Chapmanwired13 said:

Well my oil light comes on at an idle. Not all the time but about 7 out of 10 times. Someone said probably the oil is too thin considering it calls for 20w 40. I intend on using RP but just trying to figure out if it should be thicker. Oil level is perfect, I did an oil change, pump is good.

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Viscosity isn't going to cause the oil light to come on at idle, it's more likely a bad sensor. Do you have an actual oil pressure gauge? The dummy light is exactly that, and the stock gauge in the cluster is next to useless.

**edit** Also, it may call for 20w40 in extremely hot climates or harsh usage conditions, but considering you're in North Dakota, without even looking I can assure you that 10w30 falls within the coverage specs listed in your owner's manual for your climate as well.

I only have stock , pressure is good according to it so idk. It used to do it only at idle after it was driven on highway for more then 30 miles. Now it only does it when in town. It's really weird .

Chapmanwired13 said:

I only have stock , pressure is good according to it so idk. It used to do it only at idle after it was driven on highway for more then 30 miles. Now it only does it when in town. It's really weird .

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If your budget allows it, I would invest in a real oil pressure gauge. The factory gauges are great to show you that there IS oil in the system, but they're not very accurate to know actual pressure levels within the oil system.

As for your original question though, per the factory service manual, 10w30 is suitable for usage in the 4G63t motors with ambient air temps ranging from -23*F to 120*F. You CAN use 20w40 above 32*F as well, however based on the information listed 10w30 is clearly the go-to under regular conditions.

I cant really afford to do that atm. I just had to rebuild tranny and get new converter and pump for my 98 gsx 6 bolt. I have good gages in it tho. Actually plan on selling the gst spyder. Needs paint, it's all sanded and ready tho. Has lambo door kit and comes with body kit. Thinking about posting it on here. Has new tranny in it too and clutch. And only about 2 thousand miles on rebuild. Only 90 thousand original miles. I want 25 hundred for it.thanks for information.

Also has new fenders and new top

Chapmanwired13 said:

Also has new fenders and new top

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Damn.. if you weren't halfway across the country I'd buy it... I've got well over $2500 into my Spyder right now just working on converting it from a GS to a GS-T

Ya it doesn't take much to be into it for alot of $. I just posted it in classifieds with pics of body kit too if u wanna check it out.

I have a stock '91 Talon 2.0 non turbo and I've always used 10w40 but if anyone wants to know from the Haynes manual what's recommended, I have a pic from my repair manual.