gofer said:

Red - 12v switched power source (recommend using the 12v SW wire going to your cigarette lighter and not a 12v to your MPI relay)
Black - A good ground (this is important because it can cause the gauge not to read accurately)
White - Tape off
Yellow - Solder into a ECU input if you want to log your AFR's. You said pin 4 which is the front o2 sensor so you'll need to setup narrow band simulation in Link for closed loop operation.
Purple - Tach signal for shift light on WB, I believe it's 109 on at 1g for the tach signal or tape off.

A lot of DSMer's use the front o2 location with no problem. I don't think I've ever seen someone post about them killing sensors to be honest.

Click to expand...

1GASonny said:

Okay. Well the weird part is the manual says to go 2 FT from the turbo. Which is was further down compared to "stock" location. It said it wouldn't read accurately. Is that true?

Click to expand...

SCG-1 Installation Manual said:

Oxygen Sensor Placement

Optimum bung placement will vary from application to application, but using the guidelines below will ensure the longest sensor life with the most accurate readings. Using a bung is the preferred method for mounting the oxygen sensor in all applications.

•  Weld the bung at least 24 inches after the turbocharger.
  
  
•  Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00 o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating element.
  
  
•  A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the inside of the exhaust piping, this does not adversely effect the readings.
  
  
•  The bung should always be welded before the Catalytic Converter. Welding the bung after the catalytic converter will skew the readings toward lean. The skew in readings will vary with engine load and the efficiency of the catalytic converter.
  
  
•  Leaded fuel and two stroke applications will reduce the sensor’s life. There are many other factors that dictate the sensor’s lifespan so it is impossible to predict total sensor longevity.
  
  
•  Exhaust leaks, camshaft overlap, and open (shorty) exhausts will cause false lean readings at light engine loads. Typically, once the engine is under load and the exhaust gas volume increases, you will see accurate readings.
  
  
•  When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor must be connected to a powered, functional SCG-1 (no error codes) whenever the engine is running. An un-powered sensor will be damaged in a short period of time when exposed to exhaust gas.
  
  
•  Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, start the engine as you normal would. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the sensor from shock-cooling.
  
  
•  The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor mounting location) should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should install the Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 heat sink bung extender. (p/n 3729.)

Click to expand...

gofer said:

I'm not seeing where it specifically says that if it's not at least 24" after the turbo it won't read accurately in the oxygen sensor placement instructions out of the SCG-1 manual. The section I highlighted from the manual is a general statement concerning all the installation guidelines, it doesn't mean that each one depends on the most accurate reading and longest sensor life - each guideline is one or the other. The 24" recommendation only pertains to sensor life and has nothing to do with accuracy (it will actually be more accurate in the front o2 spot) but, like we mentioned, a lot of DSMer's install it there with no problems. Ff you're that concerned about it you can always get the heat sink (part number 3729).

Click to expand...

gofer said:

I'm not sure how many gauges you have or want to install in the future but a nice "clean" way to power them with a inline fuse is using a fuse block and mounting it somewhere behind the dash or under the center console. Doing so means you only need a single wire taping into a 12v switch power wire and a single solid ground point for all of your gauges.

I just installed one and wish I had thought about doing it years ago when I installed my first gauge.

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 circuit w/ cover and Ground
​

The bottom terminal is the (+) 12v switched power terminal so it feeds 12v switched to the (6) fused terminals. The upper (6) terminals are the grounds for each bank and the very top terminal is the hard ground for the entire fuse block. Very simple, effective, and prevents future birds nests of wires when you're doing multiple gauge installs.

​

This is what mine looks like...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

gofer said:

The 12v switched in the steering wheel column.

Click to expand...