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2G 2g AWD front axle removal (others may apply)

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2G removal of front axles

The factory service manual is nice to have to reference Bolt torques and such but I have linked to the section that relates to this (page 11)

This install was performed on a 1998 Talon TSi AWD. I believe the GST/TSI is the same but doesn't have the carrier bearing? Carrier bearing or not, that doesn't complicate the procedure.

Tools you will need:
  • Full set of wrenches (you need at least 12,14,17, and 32mm but i had a full set and may have used a few others)
  • 1/2" and 3/8" ratchet with full range of sockets, preferrably 6 point and preferrable another long 1/2" ratchet
  • Extensions for ratchets.
  • Hammer
  • 1" by 4 foot pole or other suitable cheater bar (unless of course you have an impact wrench)
  • Screwdrivers
  • Torque wrench for putting things back on
  • Jack stands: don't go under your car until you have these, and make SURE they are stable.
  • Impact wrench would be real useful, but I didn't need one. Instead I just used a four foot breaker bar.
 
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Time to start

I always disconnect the negative battery terminal when I'm working on my car. Since I was in the middle of engine removal when i did this, the battery was out of the car completely. Its probably not necessary but I just always disconnect it for safety. If you can't do this, don't go on...seriously


Next you need to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. (make sure you do this before you jack up the car...duh)

Then jack up the car and remove the wheels completely. This is where I had my jackstands for my engine removal and It didn't interfere with axle removal.

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Now you should be looking at a huge nut (32mm) on the end of the axle. Its probably all rusted like mine was (there is a cotter pin through the middle which you need to take out.)

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Do yourself a favor and get some PB blaster. This stuff is the best I've seen. Spray down the axle nut and let it sit a little before you go on to the next step.

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This is where the 1" diameter 4 foot pipe came into play. I stuck my solid necked 1/2" socket wrench in the pipe to give it a 4 foot handle. My buddy held the brake and I removed the nut without too much trouble.

I found that if I turned slowly, the rotor would turn with the nut, so I gave it a few quick pushes and it popped off. (If you don't have anyone to hold down the pedal, you can put the spare on or any wheel without a center cap that the socket will fit through. I would advise agaist using a socket extension for any reason as people have broken the wrenches themselves so I'm sure the extension would break.) of course if you have an impact wrench, that'll work too.

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Ah, the tie rod ends. These are gonna be pretty hard to take off without a tie rod separator unless you're lucky and you can tap them out with a hammer. Don't worry, you should be able to borrow one from Kragen or Autozone or wherever for no charge.

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First pull the cotter pin out of the nut on the bottom, and loosen the nut. DO NOT REMOVE IT because if you do, the tie rod may go flying when you are hammering it out. Put the separator in there and start whackin. I would advise against using a pickle fork!!!! it is very easy to rip to boot and then if you can't find a replacement boot you need to replace the entire tie rod. Instead, take a ballpeen hammer or any hammer really and smack the side of the joint. the molecular vibration should free the tie rod eventually. Save the hassle of fixing the tie rods. Check every so often or have someone watch to see when it pops loose..."um......uh.......I....I Uh..... think you go it" -my pal Amin (it will move up and the nut will be the only thing holding it on.)

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Then all you have to do is take the nut off and pull the tie rod out.

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Next, move on to the strut. Disconnect the damper fork from the knuckle. I would spray this down with PB blaster too. There is one bolt across the fork that holds it to the knuckle. (My drivers side was on really tightly and I used two 1/2" socket wrenchs. One to hold it still, and I actually had to put the 4 foot pole on the other to break it free. Just get them off! if you have a torch, you might wanna use it, but be careful. you don't want to melt anything over there.)

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This plate was in the way (on the drivers side) of getting my 1/2" socket wrench down there so I took off 4 of the bolts and swung it out of the way.
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This is what we're really after. The lateral arm connection to the body. Its a tough bolt to crack but it's sure a lot easier than getting the ball joint and nut undone. Forget that. Use two wrenches and lot of strength (helped out by PB Blaster of course) to break this bolt free. Once that's out, your pretty much done. (as you can see in the background, thats where the axle used to go into the tranny. Its already gone for this picture.)
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On the drivers side, you need to remove the carrier bearing. Its just a round sleeve around the axle with two bolts holding it to the frame between the axle and the tranny. In the picture, the bolts have been removed. They aren't that hard to get to.
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I found it quite easy to push the axle out of the wheel hub at this point because you can pull on the whole wheel hub to give you enough room to move. turning the hub really helped and then Ipushed the axle out. After you do this, pull the axle towards you out of the tranny. (you will have to pull where the CVs done just stretch. Just pull it out and the drivers side is done.
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The passanger side was a little less cooperative. I removed the two 12mm nuts holding the plastic engine cover and got that out of the way, but really didn't need to. (i took it off while trying to pry the axle out) I tried to pry the inner CV of the tranny but i couldn't. I managed to bend a screwdriver and even the end of my tire iron didn't work. I just went ahead and hammered a screwdriver in the middle, breaking the oil seal and popping the axle out. Others report the oil seal is 5 bucks and I couldn't figure out how else to get it out. not having to pry for 6 hours was worth 5 bucks to me!

There you go, the axle is out.

This is the front and rear suspension info from the factory manual. (torque specs page 11)
http://danleitner.com/Public/axlevfaq/2g_front_rear_suspension.pdf

For reinstall, if you have to replace the seals, just grab them with good pliers, vice grips or drill a small hole in it, thread a screw and pull that out. don't mess up the case prying. Then make sure the new seal goes in perfectly straight. use something to guide it don't just use a mallet. Then put the axles back carfully so as not to ruin the seals with the serated edges.<

Credits
Pics by: Dan Leitner (Leitnin)
Text by: Dan Leitner (Leitnin), Amin Rahimi (editing)
Special thanks to Amin, who watched the tie rod end and help the 4' pole
Thanks to James Oxley Martin Check and Tom Stangl for they VFAQ on which
I based Mine

Questions, suggestions, comments, constructive criticism and/or corrections?
pm me dsmtalk or dsmtuners username: Leitnin
 
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So, many years later...the pics are back.

Also, Don't use a pickle fork to remove the tie rod ends unless you plan to replace them. There are countless tutorials online about how to do this other ways. I like to flip the nut and apply some pressure from below with a jack then hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer to let the vibrations break it loose.
 
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