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BSE Oil Filter Housing Relief Valve Porting

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colerongo

Probationary Member
12
0
Nov 8, 2008
Castine, Maine
I was looking at my oil filter housing after porting it for lower oil pressure due to my BSE. I noticed that the hole just upstream of the piston, which directs the oil into the relief valve, seems to be smaller (more restrictive) than my ported hole. Would porting this hole (the area circled in red on the second picture) aid in flowing enough oil to keep oil pressure in check? Does it matter? Or will the porting I have done be enough? Just an idea. Looking to get someone else's judgement/knowledge.
 

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I would leave it the way it is. Everyone else that I've read with the porting of the OFH has NOT touched the inlet hole. IMO it would change the whole setup similar to putting on a larger wastegate flapper on a E316G to solve boost creep. More surface area = easier opening and because of that your oil pressure numbers may drop too low.

Make sure you put on an oil pressure gague at the housing to see what the pressure is after you ported it. I'll try to post some pictures up either later or tomorrow of my port job I did.
 
isn't the idea of porting the relief valve that it will still open at the same psi (which i think is somewhere around 70 or 80psi), but that it will just allow the extra pressure to be blead off more quickly and not get backed up? If this is the case then you could never bore it too much and cause too low of oil pressure right? So the only way to make it open too early and cause low oil pressure would be to shorten the spring or put more washers on the bolt that holds the piston/spring in. Correct me if im wrong in how this works. thanks

I trust your experience as i have never removed balance shafts on an engine until now. Thank you, i will leave it as it is and install a pressure gauge.

I see what you mean now liquidx. if you port the inlet then a larger area of the piston head will be exposed and will cause it to open prematurely.
 
isn't the idea of porting the relief valve that it will still open at the same psi (which i think is somewhere around 70 or 80psi), but that it will just allow the extra pressure to be blead off more quickly and not get backed up? If this is the case then you could never bore it too much and cause too low of oil pressure right? So the only way to make it open too early and cause low oil pressure would be to shorten the spring or put more washers on the bolt that holds the piston/spring in. Correct me if im wrong in how this works. thanks

I trust your experience as i have never removed balance shafts on an engine until now. Thank you, i will leave it as it is and install a pressure gauge.

Its the same principle as I stated with the larger wastegate flapper mod done with turbos. The wastegate will blow open sooner because of more surface area regardless of the spring pressure.

Take that idea onto the oil relief valve. It's designed to open at 75psi which is based off of the small inlet hole. You change the size then you'll have a chance to blow it open at a lower psi regardless of the spring pressure. Too low of oil pressure is just as bad as too much. Enlarging the hole which you already did is allowing the same flow pressure through (which keeps the rest of the system in check) but it doesn't get backed up by the small out let hole.

Same way as a turbo feed and drain hole. The feed may need a certain amount of oil through but if the drain hole is too small then you'll back up the system and still have the same high oil pressure as before even if using a restrictor.

You are just removing a restriction to allow more flow OUT of the reliefe valve, not more flow into the valve if you understand what I was saying.
 
Just wanted to post how mine looked after I got done porting and assembled. The white goo is assembly lube.

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Does mine actually look good enough. It's not as much as Erics there, but should work quite well yes?
 
What does the hole look like before porting? I had (jusmx141) port mine, so I have no clue what the difference is.. Just wondering!
 
Have you ran it in the car yet, Scott?

The best way to tell if you ported enough or too much is by installing it and checking your various oil pressures.

I wish I have, it's all in my journal entries :coy:. I was mainly asking because after viewing Erics, you see more of the top lip and is straighter across where mine is egg shaped at top. It's not on the motor and I'm sure I can take it back from the shop to touch it up if I need to. I have an oil pressure gauge here that I"ll be able to test it with after everything is running good after the build. This is also to help with the pressure issues of no balance shafts and putting on an HX40 when everything else is setup properly.

Picture of the stock sized hole courtsey of KnochGoon24

92145d1235240711-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting-port_this_hole.jpg
 
In order to see if mine was ported enough towards the bolt (away from piston), I took the spring out and screwed the bolt in with only the piston inside. Without the spring seating the piston against the seal it slid all the way down until it was resting on the bolt. This shows you the absolute maximum amount that it could possibly open (not very far). I have seen that many people port it farther towards the bolt but this does nothing since the piston can never open that far. Correct me if this method is wrong but i dont see how it could be.
 
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