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From Slow To Less Slow

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The engine has been rebuilt and it runs!.. for now anyways.

I installed 0.5mm overbore NPR pistons with ACL Tri-Metal bearings and deleted the balance shafts. All specs are on the wider side of clearances to account for the increased oil pressure and increased boost pressure.

I ported the head oil feed to allow for more oil volume to the head while also reducing some oil pressure within the short block.

While the engine was out, I installed a small 16g, with FIC 650cc injectors and a Walbro 190LPH fuel pump.

The clutch and pressure plate was replaced with a Southbend Clutch Kit - K05048HD, for some increased clamping force.

I look forward to getting a decent tune out of this thing and taking it out racing. Stay tuned for an updated time slip that’s hopefully better than my mid 16 second best pass.
 
Before and after rebuild

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Finally getting around to updating and just hit 5000km on the engine. Did a bunch of work over the winter, switched to speed density, installed a VRSF FMIC, some Yonaka coilovers, and a 3" turboback exhaust. After the rebuild last year, I was running a really shitty "factory" exhaust with an AWFUL universal muffler which choked the poor little s16g. On a positive note, I did see good performance improvements, dropped my 1/4 mile time down to an unofficial blistering ~15.3 seconds LOL but I knew that was waaaaay underperforming what that turbo should be able to put out. After putting on the above for-mentioned mods, I found myself in boost city, creeping down main street scared I might send a rod through my neighbour's front window. To put it simply, she's an entirely different animal now that she can breathe. I can't wait to see what she'll be able to do on a proper tune with the creep issues under control. My next step is to port the wastegate hole of the turbine housing and switch over to a tubular O2 housing to try and make the wastegate much more freely flowing.

Here's the new engine bay look. I put some gold DEI reflective tape on the IC piping post compressor. I figured if anything it might keep the air charge a little bit cooler, if not at least it looks pretty snazzy. Can't see this, but I heat-wrapped the downpipe for two reasons; To keep as much heat out of the engine bay as possible, and to keep those exhaust gases hot and moving quickly. There's still some improvements to be made like cleaning all the crud off the shock towers LOL and maybe fixing that rust hole too, but I like prioritizing fast before pretty.
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Looks good, would look a little cleaner with the strut towers cleaned up, and help save the towers from some rust. Make them as vibrant as your valve cover ;) I'm not a big fan of gold colored items, but it actually looks pretty good on your intercooler piping.

What do you have installed for a MAF? Just noticed the oem one missing in your newest pic.
 
Looks good, would look a little cleaner with the strut towers cleaned up, and help save the towers from some rust. Make them as vibrant as your valve cover ;) I'm not a big fan of gold colored items, but it actually looks pretty good on your intercooler piping.

What do you have installed for a MAF? Just noticed the oem one missing in your newest pic.

Thanks :) I switched over to speed density so no MAF, but instead I put a 4" oval to circular transition exhaust pipe in its place to "lengthen" the injen intake. I didn't want to get a new intake because I wanted to save some money and stay recirculated. The transition pipe was the only thing I could think of without getting a ginormous air filter or leaving a gaping space where the old filter used to be. If you look closely under the air filter, you'll see a metal "box" that double duties as support for the heavier intake and as a weather/heat shield for my ingersoll-rand boost controller.
 
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