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Street Build '97 Eclipse AWD GS-T (2006 to Present)

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Sure did and you're the first person to notice. My only hangup on the EDM tails was the light distribution but when I realized it was only a divider and it could be removed I bought the EDM tails. I never cared for the look with the divider there because (to me) it looks like there's a burnt out bulb.

Nice attention to detail man. :thumb:


Ahhh, gotcha! Yeah I saw that they were removable as well. The dark spot doesn't mind me. I may copy your re-wire. I did the old Spidey method on mine. But for some reason they started blinking faster LOL. Idk whats going on with the resistor in mine.
 
I ditched one of my dividers, just wanted something a little different and it seems to work ok and has a fade effect which is nice, mainly notice that in the day light though
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It's currently a garage ornament, shooting to get it drivable by the New Years but that might be stretching it with the amount of work that needs to happen and my current level of busy. Here's to hoping though!


Another year in the books sir. :)
 
You know I read this build and don't get me wrong it's great matter of fact even a super build thread for a super determined individual who deserves all that his determination and great work has rewarded him for all of his perseverance throughout all and everything his car his journey and all life's hacks have thrown his way and I break down crying more and more. Yes I've seen my baby and cryed more times than I can count. I've had three dsm's and still have nothing to show for them other than complete mis fortunes a great example of a stock car ruined by tree and dream of my son's and build and update of our street strip purpose built race car being flushed down the drain everytime I see my car and think about what could of been and what should be here. Sorry to thread jack bur it's having buddies and friends like yours that help and really push your dream forward always there no matter what. I'm in need of help with my car and build but I have nothing and no one to help. Your thread and car are truly unique thanks again for everyone's time...Heeellllppppp
 

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Ahhh, gotcha! Yeah I saw that they were removable as well. The dark spot doesn't mind me. I may copy your re-wire. I did the old Spidey method on mine. But for some reason they started blinking faster LOL. Idk whats going on with the resistor in mine.
Yea, that resistor method was something I looked into but wanted a simpler install.
I ditched one of my dividers, just wanted something a little different and it seems to work ok and has a fade effect which is nice, mainly notice that in the day light though
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That looks good, Bobby.
Another year in the books sir. :)
Yep, you're not wrong there man. The car hasn't ran since my last update either. LOL Not funny but I've been working on it and, of course, taking photos as I go. Just too busy to work on it AND post updates with everything else I have going on. Maybe someday I'll comeback in here and do a massive update.
You know I read this build and don't get me wrong it's great matter of fact even a super build thread for a super determined individual who deserves all that his determination and great work has rewarded him for all of his perseverance throughout all and everything his car his journey and all life's hacks have thrown his way and I break down crying more and more. Yes I've seen my baby and cryed more times than I can count. I've had three dsm's and still have nothing to show for them other than complete mis fortunes a great example of a stock car ruined by tree and dream of my son's and build and update of our street strip purpose built race car being flushed down the drain everytime I see my car and think about what could of been and what should be here. Sorry to thread jack bur it's having buddies and friends like yours that help and really push your dream forward always there no matter what. I'm in need of help with my car and build but I have nothing and no one to help. Your thread and car are truly unique thanks again for everyone's time...Heeellllppppp
I appreciate the compliments on the car and the build and you're right, I've had a lot of support/help with friends through out the years. If you need help then I recommend posting out on the open forum with what it is specifically you need help with. I also recommend posting a build thread for the DSM(s) you've still got so you can update your progress.
 
AUG2016 to FEB2017 - Water pump Replacement, PS delete, Kevlar Timing/BS Belt, SS Boost Lines, Found An Issue with the Old BC Cam Gears, & bought a set of RPF1 wheels

PS Line Delete - AUG2016
I had always wanted to clean up the engine bay, drop a few pounds off the front of the car, and work on my biceps while I drove so installing a Miata Mod depowered steering rack was a no brainer. I pulled the IM and started disconnecting lines/PS pump/PS cooler to prepare for the install of the depowered rack from Eaton MotorWorks. I didn't take any photos of me ripping out all the old PS lines/reservoir/pump but in the photo below of the WP replacement you can see how much it cleaned up that side of the engine bay.

Water pump Replacement - NOV2016
I noticed that I was getting a drip out of the weep hole on the water pump and the last time it was replaced was in 2007 with a NAPA reman'd so I knew that I was asking for trouble if I ignored it. Living in AZ I decided it was best to get an OEM water pump but when I saw the price tag I thought I should do a bit of research first. I found that Aisin manufacturers our WP's for Mitsubishi and then Mitsu marks it up and sells them as OEM. The P/N for the Aisin WP for a 2g is WPM-048 and it's only $80, whereas the Aisin WP that Mitsu sells is $185. LOL I didn't take any photos during the install but here's a shot of it after I torqued it down, nice and clean.

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Kevlar BS Belt Install - NOV2016
My timing belt components had 20k miles on them since it was done in June 2009 when it skipped however, that was 7yrs ago. I verified that the pulley's were in good working order but wanted to replace the rubber timing belt/BS belt and tensioner since I had everything apart. The dealership did the timing belt job in '09 since I didn't have the garage/tools to do it myself so when I got to removing the crank sprocket to replace the BS belt I had to get creative. I tried my impact and got no where getting the sprocket off and, even then, needed to figure out a solution to torquing it once I did get it off so I built a tool to do it using a spare crank sprocket I had for my 2.3 on the engine stand and it worked perfectly.

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Defective BC Cam Gears - DEC 2016
I learned a valuable lesson, that you can't trust aftermarket manufacturers no matter how well their reputation is in the industry. When I initially installed my adjustable BC cam gears back in Sept 2014 I didn't notice anything strange however, when I started to re-install my timing belt after replacing the WP I noticed that to get the exhaust cam to TDC I had to put a wrench on the cam and rotate it to get the gears to line up and put the tool in between them. Something seemed "off" so I dug my OE cam gears out of a box and set timing with them (w/o torquing the bolts to the cams) then pulled them off making sure the cams didn't move and put on the BC gears, you'll never believe what I found.

OEM cam gears @ TDC (cam dowels @ 12 and marks lined up)
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w/o moving the cams I re-installed the BC adj. gears and this is how they lined up...
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Shocked and confused, I emailed BC with the photos and their response was that their old model 4G63 cam gears (that were advertised for use on ALL 4g63 platforms) were actually designed for the Evo VIII which has an offset dowel pin and that they had been superseded (because of this issue) with a new set of cam gears that have two orientations one for the Evo VIII and another for the DSM. I was pissed but BC agreed to send me a new revised set free of charge when I shipped them this set and I crossed my fingers that I didn't have any bent valves since I was running 3 teeth off.

I installed the new set of cam gears that BC sent me and timing looked like it should, as you can see in the photo below the new set had two different dowel pin locations one for the Evo VIII and the other for the DSM.

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RPF1 Wheel(s) - FEB2017
My funds didn't allow me to order an entire set but my car wasn't going to be up and running anytime soon so I figured I'd spread the cost out over the course of a year (1 wheel a quarter) and I'd hardly notice the money missing. I wanted a 17x9 +35 wheel that was as light as possible so I went with an RPF1 which weighs in at a light 15.5lbs a piece and doesn't look too bad either. I also ordered a set of black gorilla conical open ended lug nuts to install them on the ARP extended studs.

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Boost Lines Replaced w/ SS - FEB2017
I follow Eric's (@turbosax2) build thread and saw that he blew his motor because of a melted rubber wastegate line. He races in HPDE with his 2g which throws a lot more heat out into the engine bay then drag racing however, spending $100 on SS lines seemed like good insurance. Here's a link to Eric's post ---> Turbosax2 Build Post #773
I wasn't too excited about how they looked and wanted another layer of heat protection on them so I just mocked them up and would address them later.

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I like that tool for the crank, much more beefy then the other sold on ebay,

The camgears cant amways be right but thats bad, sure they sre real and not copys? How did you miss this when you first got them. Did you not hold them against the oem gears before installing? I know when i got both my skunk2 gears i checked both sets against oem just incase something was a miss
 
I like that tool for the crank, much more beefy then the other sold on ebay,

The cam gears cant always be right but thats bad, sure they are real and not copys? How did you miss this when you first got them. Did you not hold them against the oem gears before installing? I know when i got both my skunk2 gears i checked both sets against oem just incase something was a miss
100% authentic BC cam gears since Brian Crower admitted they designed them wrong and replaced them for free. LOL

These cam gears from BC also didn't come with TDC timing marks (notice my paint marker on them) so I did lay them over the OE gears before I initially installed them but I just lined the 12 o'clock marks up to get the alignment marks for TDC. I wish I could tell you what I was thinking when I installed them for the first time but odds are I wasn't, just fortunate to catch it later before I ever raced the car.
 
100% authentic BC cam gears since Brian Crower admitted they designed them wrong and replaced them for free. LOL

These cam gears from BC also didn't come with TDC timing marks (notice my paint marker on them) so I did lay them over the OE gears before I initially installed them but I just lined the 12 o'clock marks up to get the alignment marks for TDC. I wish I could tell you what I was thinking when I installed them for the first time but odds are I wasn't, just fortunate to catch it later before I ever raced the car.

Oh admitting they designed wrong is not good, but least they knew they mucked up and sorted it for you,

So i assume you drove the car with the cams set like this, if so did it throw it off at all when you did the timing? As if you used the side markers then it would of adjusted the cams some getting them inline, was good you ended up finding this though as im sure some it would by pass for many years and never be noticed
 
01MAR2017 - Staging Brake Line Install
Since I had never built brake lines before I had done a lot of reading/research on the fall backs of buying/renting the brake line flaring kits from Auto Zone. Not that anything I read was 100% true as I'm sure they work, I just wanted something that worked 100% of the time so I didn't have any hydraulic fittings leaking when I was done. I finally decided to purchase the following tools from Eastwood to do the job...
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I also took a bit of time drawing up the routing of the lines and what fittings I wanted to use at each connection. All the connections inside the car were AN, include the bulkhead connections at the firewall inside the engine bay, the only 10x1 (F) fittings I used were to the prop valve and BMC. I also decided I wanted to use nickel/copper hardline rather than SS because of how much easier it is to bend and flare. Here's the napkin drawing I used to figure out plumbing and the fittings I'd need...

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Here's the list of the parts I ordered to build the lines/fittings...

Since I had collected all the parts and tool's I needed I got to work, one thing I'll mention (since I was learning as I went) is that I built my hardlines backwards and had to do extra work. Before you bend ends of the hardline tubing you'll want to install the fittings and flare the ends or else you'll have to straighten it out after you bend it and do it anyway. With that being said here's a few photos I took through the entire process using my pre-bent wire as a guide for the lines inside the car and using the existing brake lines to build the hardlines routing from the bulkhead fittings to the BMC and prop valve under the hood.

Lines inside the car, from firewall bulkhead fittings to staging brake...
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Lines under the hood, from firewall bulkhead fittings to BMC and prop valve...
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12MAR2017 - New OEM Evo IX Kevlar Timing Belt
My OEM timing belt only had 20k miles on it but the last time it was replaced was 2009 so it was showing its age. I decided that with my upgraded Kiggly HP Beehive valve springs it would probably be a good idea to get a stronger kevlar belt. I'm not to fond of the colored blue Gates/HKS belts so I order the OEM kevlar black belt that comes stock on the Evo IX's.

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09JUL2017 - Eaton MotorWorks (EMW) Depowered Steering Rack
After having the depowered rack from EMW for almost a year, pretty sure I got it back from Brandon back in Sept. '16, I decided it was time to install it. If anyone's interested here's a link to Brandon's site, recommend it if you're in the market for a depowered rack.

Not a whole lot to explain, just dropped the old rack and swapped on a brand new set of MOOG inner tie-rods since they had never been replaced and the outer tie-rods and installed it back into the subframe only this time no hydraulic lines to hook up. :hellyeah:

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17JUL2017 - TS Solid DS Mounts, Undercoating, Whiteline Sway Bar Lateral Locks & Vamos Front DS Loop Install
Something that I overlooked when I did the AWD swap in '08 was getting Torque Solutions driveshaft carrier bearing solid mounts. I had no reason for upgrading to them but decided that since I had to drop the drive shaft to do the depowered steering rack that I might as well swap over to a set of solid carrier bearing mounts too. Now that I've done them it would have been just as easy to knock them out with the drive shaft mounted to the transfer case but, oh well. LOL

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When I had my Sparco seat installed the driveshaft tunnel had to be modified to drop the seat low enough and center it as much as possible on the steering wheel. This meant the floorboard was cut out and a new chunk of steel was welded into place and would start corroding if I didn't do something about it. I had already put it off while the car sat in the garage for a year and there were already signs of corrosion even out here in Arizona. The interior would be easy enough but the underside took some planning since some of the welds were up under a few seams from the existing driveshaft tunnel. Again I went to Eastwood's site and ordered a few things...

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To do the interior I just took a wire brush to the exposed metal since there was some surface rust and prep'd/sprayed it with the rubberized coating, easy enough. I was thinking about spraying red over it but I have carpet down so I wasn't too concerned about the appearance as long as it functioned like I needed it too.

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I used a caulk gun and sealed all the seams that I didn't think I could get very good coverage on with the rubberized encapsulator spray. Then I took a wire brush and hit the exposed steel plate with it to knock off all the surface corrosion, trying to hit the welds the best I could. After I was happy with how it looked I sprayed 3 coats of the rubberized encapsulator to cover all the exposed metal surfaces and welds. To say the least I was happy with the results and hopefully the bottom of the car won't rust out.

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I have yet to autocross or road race my car but I do like some spirited driving and when I was under my car awhile back I noticed that the sway bar looked like it had been shifting laterally looking at the marks on it. After some reading/research I found these lateral locks to prevent this from happening and they were cheap enough, not sure if I'll notice any improvement taking corners around town but the install was easy so why not?

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Another "while I'm under here with the driveshaft dropped" install was a Vamos Design & Fabrication front driveshaft loop. I know they aren't required for tech until you're running 11.49's (which I'm not) but not too many vendors I know build these so when I found that Vamos was fabricating them I snagged one quick before he decided to stop, it even came powder coated matte black. He still makes them so look him up on Facebook if you need one or think you'll need one in the future...

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Loving the build! I have wanted to delete the PS for awhile now, going to tackle this if that GB ends up happening for the new manual racks with the electric PS setup. It really cleans up that side of the bay and takes away the headache of PS leaks on the alternator(If you haven't relocated).

That DS loop is also interesting, great insurance to have!
 
Nice!

Also, I depowered my rack, and honestly can't tell the difference to before. :idontknow: I really wish I would have just gone with an electric setup and hid the pump back on the cross member or something.
 
Loving the build! I have wanted to delete the PS for awhile now, going to tackle this if that GB ends up happening for the new manual racks with the electric PS setup. It really cleans up that side of the bay and takes away the headache of PS leaks on the alternator(If you haven't relocated).

That DS loop is also interesting, great insurance to have!
Thanks. Yep, one last thing that can leak and cause more problems!

Nice!

Also, I depowered my rack, and honestly can't tell the difference to before. :idontknow: I really wish I would have just gone with an electric setup and hid the pump back on the cross member or something.
I'm assuming you had removed your PS and just looped the lines, then depowered it and you couldn't tell a difference? I can't comment since I only drove my car with the PS components and then installed the depowered rack but steering is noticeably more responsive but get the car to turn below 20mph takes some muscle. I won't be driving the car to the gym on arm day, I wouldn't be able to steer it out of the parking lot when I leave... With that though, I haven't gotten it down to the alignment shop to get it perfectly aligned I just did it myself with my DIY strings and toe plates to make it drivable. Maybe it will be easier to steer once the alignments perfectly square.



Thanks for the compliments, I've got a few more updates to get it back to present day so stay tuned!
 
27NOV2017 - Jay Racing Alternator Relocation Install and Wiring
Since I was already going to the extent of cleaning up the engine bay and removing the power steering I thought I should go one step further and relocate the alternator to the back of the block. Since I already had the IM removed from the brake line install for the stage brake this was a good time to knock out the alternator relo. I took a step drill bit and ran it into and already existing hole at the bottom of the frame rail. As you can see in the photo below I didn't end up using that hole because there was something inside the frame that kept me from routing the wires to it. So, step drill bit round 2, I ran it down an already existing hole at the top of the frame rail this time and hit pay dirt (you can see it's location where there wires pull through). After I got the hole drilled I extended the alternator wires on the harness and then I zip-tied the alternator wiring (on the harness side from the front of the car) to a 4' long piece of wire and threaded through the rail and then fished it out of the hole I drilled by the alternator. Then I soldered the wires together where they connect to the alternator. This isn't ideal because if I ever want to pull the fusebox harness I'd have to cut the wires going to the alternator so sometime in the near future I'd like put a connector on the alternator wiring. Not shown in the pictures but worth mentioning, I also installed rubber grommets around the frame rails where the wiring feeds through to prevent if from chaffing and shorting out to the chassis.

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29NOV2017 - Old School SBR HVAC Gauge Pod & AEM Fuel/Oil Pressure Gauges
I really needed to add to my gauge assortment so I could see what was going on with my motor, since my only gauges were AFR and boost. I decided getting a fuel pressure gauge would be really helpful if I added to my logs so I could overlay it with boost pressure and make sure it's rising 1:1. I'd also been putting off getting a oil pressure gauge, relying on the dummy needle gauge that came from the factory, and playing with fire not knowing what my actual oil pressure readings were. I was never a fan of the a-pillar mounts and I found a classified ad on DSMTuners that @Boostin Performance posted selling an old SlowBoy Racing HVAC center vent delete gauge pod, so I jumped on it.

Excited to get this stuff installed!

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28FEB2018 - DEI Heat Reflective Tape on Oil Pan, Deleting OFH Heat Exchanger, & Oil Pressure Line/Sensor Install
My DSM had been down for so long I felt like I was making stuff up to do to it while I had it all torn apart, so I started doing some reading and research on controlling heat in the engine bay. After reading a few threads on the subject I came across this post (EvoM Heat Reflective Tape "Gold vs Silver --- Page 3) from Dave Buschur where he mentions making oil pan heat shields using DEI heat reflective wrap when they were building the Evo BR330's/350's and I thought, if the muffler on my car is hot enough to melt the bumper plastic after a WOT pull I wonder how hot the downpipe is? The downpipe is almost touching the oil pan so I'm sure the heat transfers to the pan, etc. etc. you get the idea. So, I already had the downpipe off and decided to order this DEI heat reflective adhesive to keep as much heat out of the oil pan as possible. Don't mind the wrap job, I suck at Christmas gifts too.

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I also wanted to remove the heat sandwich plate that goes between the oil filter and the oil filter housing. I no longer had coolant lines running to it and it leaked and I had the opportunity to shave some weight (LOL) so I ordered a new oil filter stud from ExtremePSI and used this thread for info on the modification. Simple Way to Gain DP Clearance

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I had already dropped the oil to remove the sandwich plate so it was a perfect time to install my oil pressure gauge fittings and sensor. Here's everything I ordered in case you'd like to do the same...

Looking at the picture the routing is self explanatory but doing it this way removes the dummy needle gauge sensor from functioning on the dash but gives you a digital pressure reading on the AEM gauge.
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05MAR2018 - New Tool Box!
It's about damn time, that's all. I'd always worked on my car out of my portable fold open set of tools for nearly 10yrs so I pulled the trigger on this Milwaukee roll around from Home Depot. I did a lot a measuring to make sure that it would fit perfectly under my work table and I could roll it out if I wanted to. Now it's time to order some tools and fill it up! :D

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06MAR2018 - Using "The Punisher" to Press ARP Extended Studs into New OEM Wheel Bearings
My wheel bearings on the FR, RR,RL were as old as the car, I replaced the FL wheel bearing and did the ARP extended stud install on it back in Nov. 2014 so it was time to get the other corners too. When I did the FL wheel studs I used the 25 washer method and an impact to pull it through the wheel bearing. Doing it like this worked but definitely isn't ideal and, just my luck, my best friend from work built his own hydraulic press that he calls "The Punisher" which is fitting considering it's a 25 ton press. When he first built it we took an old bowling ball and it busted it clean in half... LOL

The press made quick work of pressing in the wheel studs, took less than 5 minutes, I wish installing them on the car were that easy.

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11MAR2018 - Heat Reflective Tape Around Water Pipe, Flame Guard Around Oil/Pressure SS Hoses, & Fuel Pressure Sensor Install
Back to trying to do all the little things while the car's down at least until the Fall, I decided it would be worth pulling the turbo setup and wrapping the water pipe that runs between the t-stat housing and the water pump as well as protecting the SS lines with flame guard. Eric (@turbosax2) has done this too which is what gave me the idea, which isn't a bad one if you think about what's surrounding the water pipe or what could happen if your SS oil feed line gets too hot. To keep the exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and engine block from heat soaking the water pipe and/or melting my SS lines I wanted the best heat reflective tape and flame guard I could get which wasn't DEI. As far as heat reflective tape was concerned, I kept seeing threads about Earl's Indy supplying the same stuff that F1 teams use, which was overkill but I'd rather pay a bit extra than have something that doesn't function. Earl's Indy - Heat Reflective Tapes I did a bit more research and found the manufacturer of the tape was Clarendon, the same company that produces the AeroCatch latches, called Aerolite tape and they had actual data and testing to prove it's performance unlike the DEI stuff. Clarendon - Heat Reflective Tapes & Foils (Tech. Data Related to Performance)
I emailed their technical sales rep. and they were able to sell it to me by the linear foot, with the roll being 15" wide, so I bought 2' of the good stuff which is their Embossed Aluminum Foil and it came to $65/shipped.

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For the flame guard on the hoses I needed 7' of 3/8" to cover all the -3AN SS lines on the wastegate, bov, and AFPR and 4' of 1/2" to cover the -4AN oil feed to my turbo and the oil pressure sensor off the OFH. The best stuff I could find was aerospace flame guard that only came in the fire red color so I compromised some function for aesthetics and narrowed it down to Holley Performance flame guard insulation in black.
I could have gotten away with running 3/8" all around but for the lines with oil running through them I wanted a gap between the outside of the SS line and the flame guard since air acts as a good insulator too. I also ordered a roll of black F4 tape to seal the ends of the flame guard to the SS hose so if oil leaked onto them it wouldn't soak the flame guard.

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The fuel pressure sensor I threaded directly into the mechanical gauge port on the AFPR, pretty simple. I hadn't decided what input I wanted to log it on, front o2 or baro, so for now it's only displaying fuel pressure on the gauge.

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