As evidence

Yes cars have an alternator but there's rectifiers (diodes) in the alt to convert it to DC (houses have AC). And with just a 12v battery (and engine not running to drive the alt), you will never have more than 12.6V DC in the car's wiring. A 10W-55W bulb is a good choice for a test light.

It's interesting that both the black/white and red/black cause the test light to come on (when jumpering to the white). Is the light dimmer using the black/red? I suspect so since it's connected to the starter solenoid (after going through the starter relay) which has very low resistance and so it would drop part of the voltage (resulting in less voltage across the light making it dimmer). That's why I want you to measure the DC voltage on it to verify. I suspect the short to ground is somewhere on the black/white circuit which would make the light bright. If you can find it, try unplugging the starter relay to see if the light goes out when jumpering the black/red. On the 98-99 it's behind the radio 2nd from right (99 manual shows it incorrectly swapped with the door lock power relay next to it. It has 2 black/reds, a green/black, and a black/yellow (which goes to the starter solenoid). [This is it on my 99: http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/starter-door-lock-power-1-relays-98-99-jpg.160706/]. The 97 is a 4 pin connector, not 5 but I'd think the colors would be the same - not sure on the exact location but try behind the radio first. Note that some people get fed up with the starter inhibitor switch and/or theft starter inhibitor function of the starter relay, and so just permanently remove the starter relay and jumper it's black/red to it's black/yellow.

BTW did this car ever run since you got it or was it like this?

I agree with you Gary, it's very strange. I have gone backwards and forwards through the wiring diagrams and the only common link I find is the Cruise Control System and even then I find it very hard to believe it would create a connection the way the wiring is.

I was looking on the left side of the intake manifold becasue I believe one of the early posted said that is where it was (my left or your left hahahahaha)

This noise thingy is on the right. I just looked for it. GGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!! This little bugger was broken off!!!!!!!! I just unplugged it. No test light came on! dash board lit up and started beeping like normal!!!!!!!!!!!! Better than Christmas morning!!!!!!!!!



I am not going to be able to sleep!!!!!!! There is no way I can reassemble the car tonight to try and start it. Remember i bought it not running and got a steel because of it!!!!!!

I will be up at first light!!!!!!!!!! I can't believe I tore apart the entire interior, stereo, ecu, dash, etc. for soething that I was so confident I didn't have on the car.

asexton6969 & Love2Ralleye - I think I will definitely owe you beers!!!!

I owe such an apology to you two gents! You both spent a lot of time on this to try and help me when it was something so simple that I overlooked!!!!

Yes looking for obvious problems and unplugging stuff is always the first thing you should do to save time. Don't feel bad about taking up so much time looking for stuff in this case. Think of all the future problems you found and can now correct on this unknown car you just got. Also all the new knowledge you now have. Another debug technique is to wiggle wires close to connectors which is often where intermittent problems occur (not making good pin connection in the connector).

BTW: The right and left side of any car is ALWAYS as you're facing the front (worldwide industry standard) unless someone says as you're facing the engine. So the left side is the driver's side, right side is passenger side. You'll need to know this when ordering parts or understanding car talk (that's why the previous guy said the capacitor was on the left side intake manifold). I try to just say drivers or passenger side to avoid confusion.

That noise capacitor isn't necessary for engine to run but without it you'll get engine whine/static noise in your radio (due to the coil's primary current being turned on/off to fire the spark plugs). Oh and BTW, that capacitor is on the black/white wire circuit (like I suspected), although it would have taken a while to find with following current draw techniques. That's why those techniques are the last thing to use. Looking for obvious things and disconnecting things are always way way faster.

Sweet! You may not be able to sleep tonight but NOW I CAN!!!

Thank you both again!!!!

SHE IS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!

This thread saved me hours of wire chasing! Never knew that noise capacitor would ground out! Had the same issues as the OP. #MakeFourmsGreatAgain.