No. Just no. Get a 2g intake with the money you saved on the head.

For the love of god...DONT. PORTMATCH. THE HEAD.

if you really must, clean up the ports in the intake and use epoxy/vspal to fill and blend them into the 2g ports. But even then...Just get a 2g or evo3 intake. Please.

tametalon92 said:

No. Just no. Get a 2g intake with the money you saved on the head.

For the love of god...DONT. PORTMATCH. THE HEAD.

if you really must, clean up the ports in the intake and use epoxy/vspal to fill and blend them into the 2g ports. But even then...Just get a 2g or evo3 intake. Please.

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tametalon92 said:

No. Just no. Get a 2g intake with the money you saved on the head.

For the love of god...DONT. PORTMATCH. THE HEAD.

if you really must, clean up the ports in the intake and use epoxy/vspal to fill and blend them into the 2g ports. But even then...Just get a 2g or evo3 intake. Please.

Click to expand...

I have a 1G head too, should I just sell the 2G Head when I rebuild it?

Might as well. The 2g head works better for most street cars, kinda depends on your goals.

Just don't mix-n-match 1g/2g heads and intake manifolds.

Put it on and try it if the ports seal up. Chevy guys have been doin shit like this for years. Oval port intake on peanut port heads, is a really really bad mismatch, they seem to run OK. Ford did it too with some marine 429s, put the "correct intake" on it and it lost power.

bastarddsm said:

Put it on and try it if the ports seal up. Chevy guys have been doin sh** like this for years. Oval port intake on peanut port heads, is a really really bad mismatch, they seem to run OK. Ford did it too with some marine 429s, put the "correct intake" on it and it lost power.

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Not to be a dick, but really?

1. Old school v8s will run just about any which way you feel you can bolt on parts.

2. an N/A, v8 vs a turbo 4cyl? Cmon, that 429 can barely max out where alot of stock dsms can go with simple bolt ons, especially in the trim described.

3. A turbo 4 cyl that revs considerably higher, is likely to lose alot of power and efficency with a 1/2"+ air dam in the runner track.

Sorry, I'm not on board with the throw-it-on-and-see, and I think that's horrile advice to give someone who's learning about these cars.

OP,

As @tametalon92 already mentioned, match the intake to the head. Just upon visual alone, you can see how poorly matched the ports are:


Just consider the amount of turbulence there will be with the large step air would encounter entering the head. You won't find much information in the form of numbers other than port measurements. I do not believe you will find back-to-back testing of this idea because it is not a recommended match. If you must/insist on using this combination, like already stated, match either the head or intake. Recommending the 1g intake on a 2g head with no modification is not sound advice. Have others done it? Yes. Is it recommended? No. Keep in mind if you plan to stick with the 2g head, you will need to increase the the size of the head stud holes using a 1/2 in. drill bit. For intake choices, there are a few:

• OE 2g intake manifold.
  • Cheap
  • You will need to plug the top where the MDP sensor as this sensor is not used on the 1g.
  • Would need TB flange enlarged from 52 mm, to 60 mm.
• EVO1-3/RVR intake manifold.
  • A bit more expensive.
  • No modification needed for MDP sensor.
  • Considered upgrade for 2g head with shorter runners.
  • Need matching coil pack/bracket, or create own mounting option.
  • Some already have 60 mm flange for 1g TB and have no provision for EGR. (others have smaller port and smaller flange)
• Hyundai intake manifold.
  • Cheap.
  • Small 2g runners.
  • 60 mm flange for 1g TB.
  • 1g style coil pack mount.
• Aftermarket SMIM/Cast.
  • Expensive.
  • More volume (higher top end).
  • More options.

The only other advice is to just stick with the 1g head.

How do you know it will suck? Have you done it? Sure it's probably not ideal, but it's not like it's gonna cause the car to not run, and if it really sucks he's out $10 for an intake gasket.

Jeez you act like I told him to dump a load of gravel in his oil.

I think it's a great learning experience. First hand how important or not a perfect port match is.

Im currently doing similar, putting an evo3 intake on a 1g head. But hey, I don't know a thing or two about these cars...

bastarddsm said:

I think it's a great learning experience. First hand how important or not a perfect port match is.

Click to expand...

Can the OP bolt a 1g intake to a 2g head?

• Yes, using a 1g intake manifold gasket.

Can the OP try to match the ports?

• Yes, but the intakes are designed to work collaboratively with the head they were originally equipped with. The two heads are designed quite differently in regards to the intake ports.

I am totally not opposed to people thinking "outside the box", but as experienced members, we should provide the best and most accurate advice to new members.

I wasn't advocating port matching, I was simply stating that a 1g intake on a 2g head might not be so bad. I cited 2 examples of engines that have a severe port match and don't seem to be too affected by it. I never said it would be optimal.

I dont think anything i posted is anything less than good advice. As someone who has been playing with DSms for more than a decade, I've seen lots of things that should hadlve been good that sucked, and lots that should have sucked that ran good.
You never know this could set up some wild turbulence or swirl that speeds up combustion, and fights detonation. You'll never know unless you try.

So next we should put a big block right at the fuel rail, covering half the line up, because it "might work", right?

The examples you gave were n/a v8s, from a by-gone era. They were trial and error back then, and putting a mismatched port setup together netted them a fluke, most likely due to an oversized runner to begin with that caused fuel suspension to suffer. If they added a larger runner to a smaller port and made power, the tumble effect in the port most likely added to the atomization, causing more power.

I don't want to argue what was done 45-50 years ago. Telling some one to put on a part that is clearly not meant for their application in such a gross manner, is definitely NOT good advice, especially if you've been foolin with these cars/engines for that long.

If you'd done it yourself and had data, id stand behind it, but please don't tell ppl just getting into these cars to "try it cuz it might work". Thats how ppl ruin these cars, dump tons of money into them, part them out and scrap them.

All I ask I'd please don't tell anyone to do anything that you yourself wouldnt, as I'm pretty positive you wouldn't do the aforementioned. Rant done.

Caleb4G63, do as you see fit, but please research the subject more before you make a decision.