I see what you were talking about now, not going to lie I am going to borrow your idea(s) here as this is exactly what I am looking for to retain the front end (without chopping the frame up).
I have hopes of getting this done in the next few months, if I have it "rolling" by then I will post here about the results of pedal feel (no engine though) - should stop like normal since it is a booster delete and contains a tandem 1" master cylinder (bigger than the 3G).
According to them, it can work up to 6-pot front and 4-pot rear combos, I will be running 4-pot front/2-pot rear so it should feel normal (if not better). It also has an individual rear bias adjust as well (lower spin knob).
Hopefully, it will do a few things:
1. provide a dual system in which if the front fails I still have the back and vice versa.
2. Give me the same pedal feel as if I had a brake booster.
3. Resolve the potential cam idle issue of fluctuating vacuum. On that note, it should give me consistent...
Could be the detergent in the petroleum, I have seen similar stuff in mine but I wasn't using any octane booster. Or it could be the cast iron breaking down from the heat (rusting).
I had a similar situation but I don't think you would want to do what I did, I wound up removing the whole engine, transmission, and transfer case because it was stuck. Oddly enough the shaft is still in the transfer case. It did take a bit of hammering but I did it outside of the engine bay...
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-dsm-circuit-diagrams-electrical-factory-service-manual.517377/This will be your best friend. Read it, learn it, and commit... once you start you definitely want to either create stopping points or at least have all of your notes written somewhere. Wiring is...