So I'm still messing with this problem. I got the Palm logger, and it confirms that the ECU is controlling the ISC. I'm able to turn the BISS and watch the ISC count change. I've also tried adjusting the TPS based on these readings, and that hasn't helped either.I messed with the timing a bit...
I could block the FIAV, but I also still have a spare that I could try swapping on to the car. It's probably going to have to happen at some point here. I feel like blocking the FIAV is a band-aid fix. The car is basically stock otherwise. I shouldn't have to block the FIAV to get the idle to...
Also forgot to mention that it isn't throwing any codes. It runs great except for the idle surge while rolling. Immediately stops when the vehicle speed drops to zero. Starts back up as soon as I let the car start rolling (ex. downhill roll).
Hi all.I have a 91 2.0 NT MT. I'm driving myself nuts trying to fix this idle issue. It happens both while the car is rolling in gear with the clutch pressed in, and when rolling with the clutch out with the car in neutral. It has an idle surge from 1200-1500 rpm. Worse when cold, and less so...
When I worked there, I saw a mix of Moog, TRW, 555, and no-named parts boxed up as "Duralast". It was really hit and miss. As you see, they often have multiple suppliers for the same parts, shelved at the same time.On the rare occasion, something would come through as an OEM part re-boxed...
I was going to buy another ECU off eBay to have on hand for parts, and I've now had 2 deals fall through because they opened the case and saw nothing but acid damage. At least both pulled the listings.I'll pull the ECU and start ohm-ing traces. I suspect you're correct. I didn't check all the...
So all is not well in ECU-land. I've been chasing idle issues since the fix, but for most of the time, I've been able to live with a high idle when cold, and a slightly low idle when hot. When I autox'd it, I'd just turn the BISS to set a high idle (cheap dino oil didn't like autox, and pressure...
I've seen a system similar to what you're trying to build.As a complete turbocharger replacement, it's a bit of a stretch. But you can do low RPM torque fill, where flow rates are lower, with a reasonable amount of power. The calculations posted earlier in this thread are correct concerning...
You can get the surround off from around the inside handle with just 1 screw, without removing the whole door card. I can't recall if this gives you enough room to get to the pull for the latch or not.
Also check your ground cables. If you tried to start it in gear, it may have pulled a lot of amperage and degraded a connection. The starters on these cars are fairly robust.
But for the price, the OEM knuckle kit is the way to go, even if you don't use the knuckle.
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22827Pulled these numbers from ExtremePSI's site.
Driver side: MR325009
Pass side: MR325010The OEM kit is cheaper than the OEM curved arm on its...