While 12AN is ample-sized, if the small hose section is kinked or misaligned it's potentially draining less-effectively than an unkinked 10AN. Another key ingredient is crankcase pressure...if there's anything causing the engine's crankcase pressure to be high, whether it be something like...

No ball bearing, no 9-blade turbines. Everything else is subjective to the build and the power level desired. Kinugawa is a distributor working directly with CHSH Turbo- their products are all made in Taiwan which means better than China, not as good as MHI. I've personally seen...

The Garrett TB2566 (recognized as the T25) was chosen as a way to boost torque and throttle response on 2G cars after complaints that 1G's were rather lethargic. Intake ports got smaller, throttle body got smaller as well, compression was raised, and rods were lightened to reduce reciprocating...

A fabricated tubular manifold and TD06 20G is not going to have better response than a TD05H 16G on the stock manifold if that's what you're asking. I'd work on cleaning up the issues with the setup, make sure all of the manifold / turbine housing / o2 housing transitions are smooth and the...

In second gear exiting a corner under load at 3000 you'll already be in the power range of either turbo...so I'd go for the one which would pull longer, and that's definitely the 14B.

Assuming it's one of the many Chinese Garrett GTX imitations on the market today which are all nearly identical yet branded under many small-name shops as "their own" product, you'd oil it the same as if it were a Garrett GTX which would mean no more than 40psi of pressure at the inlet from a...

TE04H 13C; factory turbocharger from a Chrysler 2.2. Compressor on these is 40/52mm making it a downgrade for anything which ever came on a DSM with the exception of a Garrett TB2566 on a 2G. The question would be why on Earth would you want to go through all the work of the install to...

If you plan on driving the car on the street at all, 2G / Evo III manifold w/ collector ported to 60mm. If you plan on doing nothing but racing, FP Race Manifold (hence the name). If the car is an auto, 2G / Evo III manifold for either type of driving.

That's an aftermarket actuator head, likely from a Holset or something much more-durable than stock. The stock actuator is weak and has trouble holding a peak beyond twice the spring pressure (roughly 22psi) so folks will do this in attempt to hold higher pressure into the upper RPM range.

It makes me nuts that they're still using bolt-on T04S cover tech all these years later with those six 5/16" x 3/8" bolts that yank the threads out of the housing the second time they're torqued.But yes, this is what you're stuck with...as mentioned the Morrison full-3/4" drain is what you'd...

Much truth to this. I've serviced a handful of these, mainly for the SRT4 community- and I've found a few things which I didn't exactly care for...one being the compressor tech is literally a direct copy of the cast 56mm wheel, which was disappointing considering billet is a more-dense starting...

If the turbo is worth rebuilding, I can service it...but typically a complete lack of oil on a journal bearing unit isn't promising in the sense that the oil itself *is* the bearing.

Is the car stock? Do you drive the car daily? Unless you're having low-pressure issues or dealing with oil consumption past the rings or valve guides with whatever oil you're currently using, do not just drop 20W50 in and assume all will be well. I've had turbo customers with catastrophic...

I'm wondering why there's about nine fittings on top of your turbo when there should be one or two.

The PCV valve I.D. is under 1/4"....it's designed to only handle evacuation when the throttle plate is closed and no load is on the engine (idle). Any other time the intake pipe should be utilized if negative pressure (positive ventilation) is needed.Running the PCV valve back to the intake...