+1 Especially if you've been parking your car upside-down, such that the rain and mud can get to the switch, which is located near the top of the lever-arm for the pedal, behind the dash.
He said winter, so I'm thinking he wants AWD which rules out NA "DSMs." The ad has already been pulled from Craig's List, but it seemed entertaining; I especially loved the idea of having thick wheel spacers on a "rally car." In any event, the OP should probably just get a 15 year old Scooby...
It's not necessary if you don't lower the nose too much.As to availability of 17s ... maybe things have changed, but 17" R-compounds were a serious issue back when I autocrossed. We wanted something around 275/35/17, but they didn't exist.
If you get them from True Choice, then, yes, they can be shortened before they are sent to you. You could also have them revalved, if you wish.Note, however, that you have chosen the worst time - by far - to have this work done. Most good places are totally backed up at this time of year.
Yes. It's the rear springs and shocks that are key to ride quality. Another option, if you don't mind the risk the car-sickness on the highway, is 750-800 front and 300 rear with only the rear swaybar upgraded.
My Avatar is the car on 17x8 +40 ASA IS6 wheels with 245/40/17s, lowered about an inch on Konis. I don't know if I have any other pictures. The car is long gone.
It was something like $75 per shock to get them shortened. I think I used True Choice.As to 18"s ... wheel gap is from tire to fender, isn't it? The wheels are a side issue. Plus, when you lower the car with coilovers, that will take of it. Why make the car slower and less comfy just so a...
One of the cool things about having a huge skidplate is that it acts like a lower front tie-bar due to where it attaches to the car.The thing I said about a whole degree of camber was an overstatement, but I do remember losing a bit when I put it on. But you're only losing camber that exists...