Should I then assume I just had bad luck twice in a row and I have nothing to worry about?

Anyone else experience this before?

Any idea if the GM ones are all plastic on the sensor side in the airstream?

Not at all sure how this is happening but the element in my GM IAT sensors is getting destroyed causing the sensor to read negative 40 degrees. I verified wiring and narrowed it down to the sensor which I have replaced once already. This is the 2ne sensor that has died this way. sensor came in...

That's good info, thanks. So I have a good battery and a good alternator now. Rebuilder told me the old one appeared black inside. I'm wondering if I have an exhaust leak pointed straight at my alternator now. I'll investigate that and fix what I find if anything.One thing I am interested in...

I took the alternator back to the remanufactured to have them test it then I was told that the alternator was not charging at all, he suspected the regulator was destroyed. Luckily I'm getting it warrantied out. I wonder if there can be any issues with my ECU that contribute to the alternators...

I'm on my way to take the battery in right now to have them test it. I know there tester doesn't really count for much but I stop by AutoZone 1st and they confirm that the battery is bad. Hopefully Firestone warranty this thing for me. I feel like I might have been a victim of the vicious...

This all started a couple of years back. First thing was the typical 3 lights that illuminate to tell you the alternator is dying. I had an oem alternator at the time and replaced it with an oreilys one, and yes I know those suck. Anyways it was like clockwork, in about a month or 2 the voltage...

Us

I know I'll be labeled a necromancer for this but sometimes I'm blown away by how hard it is to decode some people's sentences...

Look herehttp://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/injbatadjI am adding 10ms in the fuel tab to my injector deadtime to adjust fuel trims. The only real change you need to make is the global setting so the computer knows what % to adjust for the difference between 450cc and 680cc.

There should be a data sheet that will tell you what the deadline is at different voltages for those injectors. You have to get it as close as you can reasonably. If you do it right you should only need small deadtime adjustments in the fuel tab to get fuel trims in line.

Did you change the injBatteryAdj in the direct access tables to match you injectors?

Ya, that thing. Thats it, the COOL AIR BYPASS lever haha. I still dont really know what it does but whatever glad you found your answer.