The RetroFitSource.com is definitely the best way to go! I did the FXR Stage 3 kit on my Tacoma exactly a year ago and have had zero issues with them. Hell, i even did my fogs with a seperate bulb kit. Tough job to do, but worth the money.

Well i got it replaced and timed using ECMLink and all is working well.Still trying to get the car tuned, or at least get idle down. Having trouble keeping AF/Per Rev down and running somewhat lean and getting way too much knock. Thanks for the help.

Will do. Didnt know that was in ECMLink. Thank you for the information.

Ok, so i read through all the CAS threads prior to posting this and could not find a specific answer to my question/concern.I am running ECMLink and in the process of replacing my CAS sensor on my 93 Eagle Talon and was wondering if i have to use the same process prior to ECMLink for setting...

You were right. I left it the way you stated above and they are registering the same numbers. Thanks.

Oh. I noticed when i used the setting above that the Gauge/ECMLink werent reading the same. I will revert back to its original configuration and leave it alone. Would it be wise to update the LM Programmer as well. I think the latest version was 3.3

Thanks. I will try those settings.

So i read through all the LC1 WIDEBAND threads prior to posting this and all say 1 to 5 volts. I calibrated it, installed the led with push button and ran through install and free air tests without a hitch.I dont understand what to change the parameters to in the LM Programmer using 3.15...

Hoping i can get some help as well with this LC1 business. So i followed the steps posted in another post as follows:Narrowband simulation install (DB gauge, Logging, ECMlink v3 setup) [LC-1 sensor placed in front o2 spot] Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or...

I would also look at the timing light. Is it an adjustable timing light? I know on mine it jumps around a lot when setting timing if i don't push the RPM/Timing advance button. Just a thought.

I have the same problem with my aftermarket radio. I found that my aftermarket speakers, Polk 4.5 in dash and doors with Kenwood 6x9s in the back are drawing too much power. I need to use a different spot to ground the radio as the one i used is not a very good one.

Have you changed the coolant temp sensor on the water neck? Ive read in the shop repair manual, that if thats bad, the car won't start.

Understood. Just hope we can resolve this without me forking out a lot of money.

I didn't install it. TMZ performance just did the work on it. I just couldn't get it to go into gear and obviously found out why. Waiting to see what Tim says. Hopefully something we can resolve quickly. Anxious to get her on the road.

Well, i found the problem and i am working with TMZ to resolve the issue. Not sure why the manual valve in the valve body seized but it broke with me trying to force it into a gear. Here is a link describing the issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ04n1wy2w8