I've never really ran into a ridge issue with 4g motors. The majority of them have a large amount of carbon built up at the top I'd scrub it off before knocking the pistons out. Then depending on if the pistons came out without breaking rings then check ring tension. If the two check out dingle...
Yeah I get that that's why I included my experience with the Hobart 140. It's made by miller uses all miller consumables and parts. I've been using it for 9yrs or better and have only had to change the torch liner. Parts are cheap and available everywhere.
Well I think if you read what's been posted you'll have a good idea. I still like and use my handler 140 I love it with .025 wire its great on sheet metal.
I have stripped PC with aircraft stripper also no issues.
But I really wanted to bump this for a good write up on the zinc yellow chromate that is awesome.
This question will always have different answers depending on who is asked.
When I painted mine I built a booth out of PVC and plastic sheeting along with some 2x4s in places it needed extra strength.Mine was a somewhat down draft cross flow designed sorts with 3 box fans on the top of one...
Is it lowered? Fwd 1gs use a track bar to locate the rear axle when you lower the car it essentially makes the bar longer causing one side to poke out further.
Well never mind w4a33.com has a great article about his kit. When I change converters that's the route I'll be going. I'd rather not gamble on the sinister seems like the first time you have an issue your right to the price of a j Bush unit.
Nice I was more interested in reading up on the kit first just to get an idea of what it's all about. I probably won't be swapping converters till next year after I get to that point.
I love my ahp but when and if it does die I'll be getting either an htp or an everlast. I like how the cheap Chinese welders have the extra knobs and controls so you can fine tune them. I almost got a Hobart tig but I didn't like how you just had a setting for whatever you were welding without...