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Need emissions gurus

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kidmet

Supporting Member
217
21
Jul 23, 2012
Aurora, Colorado
Ok. Spyder gst to awd swap.

Gst had charcoal and whatnot in the gas tank.

New gas tank does not.

Car runs but won't pass emissions. I've tried all the tricks.

I bought a under battery charcoal canister system used. I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to hook everything up. (I know most people will say ditch it all, but I cant)

So I have most of the vacuum lines figured out. I have to drop my tank to figure out where the line from canister to tank will go. Wondering about solonoid on canister. Where or how do I get the plug for it. Where does it come from? I will try to get pictures soon. If anyone has the electrical diagram of the evap ventilation solenoid ? Also diagram of inputs outputs to awd (95, I believe) gas tank.
 
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Totally stock with link. (Upgrades on the way, but I'd like to get this figured out before changing anything)

Not worried about CEL. HC were high and I tried some Heet. The HC and Nox were high after that failed experiment.
 
High HC is unburned fuel. Does the car have the CAT on it? How many times have you tried to pass? Is it always high HC causing the fail? Post a pic of the sheet or your numbers.
 
High HC is unburned fuel. Does the car have the CAT on it? How many times have you tried to pass? Is it always high HC causing the fail? Post a pic of the sheet or your numbers.

I will grab the tests this weekend. It does have a cat. It passed emissions with the old gas tank and exhaust from gst and before I installed link.
 
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Does the ECU have the stock tune loaded into ECMlink? Have you checked for boost leaks? New plugs and wires are never a bad idea either.

If you failed, you should get a sheet with some graphs on the back. Those can help narrow down problem areas.
 
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First pass. Then I read heet could lower HC. So I got some. Second pass below with 1/4 tank of 93 and 2 bottles of Heet.

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Does the ECU have the stock tune loaded into ECMlink? Have you checked for boost leaks? New plugs and wires are never a bad idea either.

If you failed, you should get a sheet with some graphs on the back. Those can help narrow down problem areas.

I will grab the graph I have. Of course I didn't this time. I will do a boost leak test. I also did load the stock tune from ECM. The ECU I got had a tune for a heavily modded car. Started right up after loading. The idle seems off with the new tune. I'll see if maybe I can get a log. Working on this here and there since it's in storage and wife hates the car.
 
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Man you BARELY failed on that first one. Check for boost leaks and fix any. Make sure the oil is clean and FULL. Then test again. Make sure to go in HOT. Do a couple pulls right before you go in to make sure the Catalytic converter is nice and hot (burns excess fuel better).

If you need to borrow a boost leak tester hit me up, I'm in E Centennial.

Oh, and I'd go ahead and fill the gas tank back up full, I don't think that heet did any good.
 
Man you BARELY failed on that first one. Check for boost leaks and fix any. Make sure the oil is clean and FULL. Then test again. Make sure to go in HOT. Do a couple pulls right before you go in to make sure the Catalytic converter is nice and hot (burns excess fuel better).

If you need to borrow a boost leak tester hit me up, I'm in E Centennial.

Oh, and I'd go ahead and fill the gas tank back up full, I don't think that heet did any good.

Yea, the second one I had to wait about 40 minutes in line which probably cooled my cat. I tried to do pulls before.
 
clean your egr valve and make sure the passages (for egr) in the intake manifold are clear. If your oil isn't fairly new, changing it might help.
hydrocarbons are basically unburned gas so you can also try leaning out your A/F a couple points
 
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