After thinking for a while about doing a six bolt swap I thought to myself, "why?".


Why swap? Why go through the trouble? I have a 95 GSX that I have put 141,000 hard miles on everyday to & from work & for play.

What the hell good is a 6 bolt block going to do for me? Aside from consume more time & money, it would do nothing.

If my stock 7 bolt has gotten me though 141,000 miles and I have not a hint of end play worthy of mentioning what is the point? All so I can have a sig that says "95 w/ 6 bolt swap " ?

I have a Fidanza flywheel and an ACT 2600 that I planned to sell when I got my motor done. Why? Why would I start over?

After as many miles as it’s had and countless launches with the ACT2600 as it’s had any form of manufacturing defect would have shined by now. Instead I have a 141,000-mile motor with solid compression across the board.

I just think its funny that so many people go with a whole new block for zero reason, Now maybe if your going to build a full out race motor with a worked head and aluminum rods, etc then I can see going about it that way, but for a 13 sec daily driver to get you to & from work. I see no point.

Now that you jinxed yourself. I'll come over this evening and we'll check for CW again tonight.

crankwalk you bumbling idiot

Originally posted by thehyena
crankwalk you bumbling idiot

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posted by AW4G63 in original post:

"'If my stock 7 bolt has gotten me though 141,000 miles and I have not a hint of end play worthy of mentioning what is the point? All so I can have a sig that says '95 w/ 6 bolt swap '" ?

read up knoobie

i give it another 5,000 miles before he gets 1/8" of end play

I think not. If a motor makes it 140,000 miles and its still tight all around then anything in 5,000 miles would obviously be from something not related to the internals and there quality.

Anyone who knows motors would know that

Originally posted by thehyena
crankwalk you bumbling idiot

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After 140,000 miles and everything is still in tip top shape crankwalk wouldnt be from defects from the factory.

Any motor can wear bearings out by 140,000 miles asshat.

you're still a bumbling idiot

Classy response. As for the 6 bolt swap, most do it b/c they have the opportunity to do it during a rebuild, avoiding having to do it later if problems do arise from the factory 7 bolt. I am in the same situation and plan to drive my 7 bolt into the ground then retire it w/ a 6 bolt bottom end. For me its cheap insurance and it allows me to build a new short block while being able to drive my car until I am ready for the swap. It would be very brave to build a 7 bolt, but if you do, let us know how it holds up. Once I pull my old 7, I plan to keep it around just in case someone needs a stocker.

I would have a more confidence in a motor that I drove for 140,000 miles then some block I bought of the web.

I see no point in ever changing to a 6 bolt once a block has more then proven its self.

Ummm.

Look at 1g rods (6 bolt) then look at a 2g's rods.

My 7 bolt died at around 8k.

Bearings fine... No CW...

Cylinders and compression fine. You could still see the hone marks.

No HG problems.

What happened.... Broken rod.

Originally posted by MNGSX
Ummm.

Look at 1g rods (6 bolt) then look at a 2g's rods.

My 7 bolt died at around 8k.

Bearings fine... No CW...

Cylinders and compression fine. You could still see the hone marks.

No HG problems.

What happened.... Broken rod.

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And at 140,000 miles my rods are peachy. I see your point, yours crapped at 8,000.

That has nothing to do with my situation.

Well AW4G63, it appears that a lot of people just like to blame a hundred other factors on their motor being a 7-bolt or supposedly crankwalking. Poor tuning among other things can sling a rod on any motor. If we narrowed the cases of crankwalk down to the few cases where it was actually proven to be crankwalk, and where the person actually maintained and tuned their engine the way they should, I have a feeling that crankwalk would hardly exist. 7 or 6 bolt motors both have their stronger points. I'm using an ACT clutch and running 23 psi daily and my good ol 7 bolt is still running fine at 95,000 miles.

Wow, I really don't give a shit that you decided this.

haha, j/k. If your seven bolt works, why change right? Crankwalk percentage isn't that much anyway is it?

I'm with AW4G63, I"m rock'n 142,000 miles on the original 7bolt w/ great compression, no end play, everything is peachy-keen.

I agree 121,000 still running strong

/\ My peoples.

96K and still going strong

/me knocks on wood

Just turned 99K and still rockin' the 7-bolt

Herostar, what kind of wheels are those and what size? Nicest 6 spokes I've seen. I've been looking for some decent 5 spokes for a while, but all the ones I finally decide to like get played out by the time I find a vendor.

Rebuilding my spun bearing (decimated, actually) 2G 7 bolt would've been more trouble than it was worth.

Although it hadn't crankwalked @ ~92k or so, getting the proper sized bearings to match up with the re-machined crank and what not would've 1) cost as much as a six bolt swap. 2) Could easily crankwalk and make my life miserable.

I went with a safer bet.

And that my friend has nothing to do with my thread.


Its asking what is the point of doing a 6 bolt swap if you dont need to.

In your case, your block had a defect.

In my case , its perfect.
So whats the point in going with a 6 bolt?

Originally posted by Spoolin95GSX
Just turned 99K and still rockin' the 7-bolt

Herostar, what kind of wheels are those and what size? Nicest 6 spokes I've seen. I've been looking for some decent 5 spokes for a while, but all the ones I finally decide to like get played out by the time I find a vendor.

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Those rims are made by
Private Messaging Wheel Company
Use the PM, Oh 44080


Use PMs man!!!

Originally posted by AW4G63
And that my friend has nothing to do with my thread.


Its asking what is the point of doing a 6 bolt swap if you dont need to.

In your case, your block had a defect.

In my case , its perfect.
So whats the point in going with a 6 bolt?

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It's called a reason. If you ever have the internals open on a seven bolt, you'll never get it back to factory spec.

Yes, It was a reason for a beaten battered 7 bolt to get swapped out, but not a reason to swap a strong 7 bolt.

I see your point, It just had nothing to do with why I should swap.

heres why you swap a 7 bolt. Cuz you want too. i dont care if my 7 bolt is running perfect when i get it im sill gonna take the 6 bolt out of my 91 to put in it. why risk not being able to drive your car cause of crankwalk or rods breaking.