Hey all,

Just wanted to share with you my first attempt at porting. Basically, I removed the step on the housing and went down about an inch. Below are some pics. Let me know if I should go further down or not, and did I messed up or anything like that. I used Sears craftsman professional electric grinder with a "tree" shape grinding stone with a 1/4 inch shank. I will be finishing it up with a sanding bit on a dremel. Thanks!

Last one.

I'm no pro at porting but that looks mighty nice compared to some of the other jobs i have seen. Did you crack your housing while porting??? Looks good.


Couple ?'s
You used the Tree stone for the whole job???
If yes how long did the whole job take
About how much did that Die grinder cost you???
Why didn't you use a carbide bit???
Thanks

I'm new here but do have porting experience...

www.harborfreight.com has an inexspensive die grinder with a 1/4" shank for $40, use a light dimmer switch to control the speed.

www.carbidebur.com has KILLER prices on burrs

Looks pretty clean.

1. First of all, I would suggest buying a nice carbide bit. It will make your life 10 times easier.

2. Second of all, show us the turbine outlet side. That's by far the most important part, when trying to get rid of boost creep.

Also, a close-up of the inlet would be nice.

Always get as deep as you can.
Carbide bits, as stated, rock.
Match it to the gasket.
I personally finish with a series of nice smooth stones, then hit it with the wheel polisher. It gives it an extrude honed feel.

TurBoGs-T
The crack was already on the housing when I bought it.
No, I used the tree shape grinding stone as well as other shape grinding stones (large cylinder and skinny tall cylinder) for the whole job.
Took me about 1 day with on and off breaks, if I went at it hardcore, I would have finished within 4 hours in my opinion.
The grinder cost me $100.00 at Sears, it pricey but I think it is a very good investment.
I didn't used a carbide bit because I found that it was alot easier to shape the housing with the grinding stones and I didn't want to risk of cutting to deep, that's my preference.

Anyways, I just finished the housing today and should slap it on tommarrow. I opened up the wastegate hole and ported enough so that the wastegate arm opened up 90 degrees. I matched it to the gasket that RRE gave me. As for the tubine exit passage, I really didn't port it out like the wastegate passage. I just matched it to the gasket (following the VFAQ for it). I finished it up with a dremel with a sanding drum. Here are some pics!

Another...

Last one..

If you have a boost creep problem, or expect to have on, that is not going to fix it.

1. Don't worry about making it so that the wastegate can open up 90*. It never will.

2. Port the wastegate inlet area more.

3. Port the wastegate exit wall, the seperator between the turbine and wastegate outlets, wider and thinner.

better job than ive ever done.

nice.

That is a nice a$$ job you did. i hope mine turns out like that.

I can't show you the pics yet (I'm at work, I'll post them if I remember this thread when I get home), but KPT4321 showed me how to port stuff, and I ported out my exhaust housing about as much as you have with a carbide bit (and I think the same craftsman powertool as you have) in about 30 minutes.

-Jesse

When my car was down due to crankwalk, I ported my head, intake manifold and 14b exhaust manifold like yours,..

I found too that carbide bit isnt used much, but only to smooth out the rough edges,..I found too just using the 150 grit sand barrels on my Dremel tool with extension the best to use,..Needs a lot of changing, but it just cuts better and does all the porting well,...I used the steel wire brush attatchment to "smoothen" out the ports afterwards and polished it with buffing (cone shaped) pad,..

This wont work on a EVO exhaust manifold though,..I started porting out that nickel content manifold, went thru $30 of sand rolls and gave up to have it professionally done on the exhaust side and divider and 7cm port(I dont have compressor and air tools which is the best/fastest way),..

Nice ports though,..

Kevin

Quick question, what are the benefits, if any to port out the compressor outlet to match my RRE J Pipe, or should I even do it?

You can move more air if you port the comp. outlet. Why not do it. especially if the jpipe is bigger.

Nice job...

You should spend a little more time on the wastegate side as KPT suggested, just be careful around the actual outlet as you want the best seal possible (leaks suck). GOod job though!! make sure to port match the manifold and you are set. Oh and you will not notice anything by making the comp outlet a tiny bigger to match.

KPT
I took your suggestion and ported the wastegate inlet a little bit more and I ported the wastegate walls wider and I tried to get it thinner. Anyways, here a picture of the final finish product . Let me know your opinion. Also, is there a downfall in porting the wastegate passage too big (wide)? Because the gasket RRE gave me doesn't fit anymore and I had to enlarge it a bunch to make it fit and now im worried that my VP o2 housing won't line up?! Well let me know, thanks!

Before pic....

That looks alot better!

Just curious.. have you installed this on your car yet and did it cure your creep??

Not installed yet, im waiting for my o2 housing to get here so I could port match it to my turbo. I will keep you update though...

Well, I finally got the chance to installed my turbo over the weekend and here is my update. If I set the boost to anything below 15psi, it would creep 2-4 psi. But the thing is, if I set the boost to anything above 15psi, it would hold steady maybe creeping 1 psi or so, not that much as I experiance when I set the boost to anything below 15psi. Any ideas on what is causing it to creep when I set the psi lower vs higher? I am currently using Greddy Profec B EBC by the way.

15psi is kinda like the magic number, any lower and the wastegate has a really hard time trying to get rid of all that exhaust flow.

Originally posted by kpt4321
If you have a boost creep problem, or expect to have on, that is not going to fix it.

1. Don't worry about making it so that the wastegate can open up 90*. It never will.

2. Port the wastegate inlet area more.

3. Port the wastegate exit wall, the seperator between the turbine and wastegate outlets, wider and thinner.

Click to expand...

I agree, The wastegate will only open so far. I ported it out so flapper would open fully and used a hand vacume pump to see how far flapper opens and it will never completly open. So don't waste your time.
Looks prety good!