by John Derrington a.k.a. cucumber
I decided to put the 14B on my 2G Spyder due to the fact that I got it for free, and I installed it for less than 40 bucks. Im sure youre wondering, how did I do that? Thats what I hope to explain to you through this write-up, how you can install a 14B/16G /20G for less than 40 bucks. You may not want to cheap out on some things like I did, but hell, I got over 100 CFMs for less than 40 bucks. Here is my write-up, and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Tools:
Basic Craftsman Tool Set
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Liquid Wrench (Youll need it)
Breaker Bar (Would be very HELPFUL, considering I didnt have one)
Install Kit:
I ordered my install kit from KrazyKorean off of DSMTuners.com, and it had a SS oil feed line, new water lines, and a new oil return line. I already had a 1G J-pipe, and I was determined to use it. I paid about 30 bucks for all of these items from KrazyKorean. I reused all my gaskets, except for the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, which I ordered from an OReillys parts store near me. They sell a very good Fel-Pro turbo gasket set if you need some gaskets for the install. This is all you need to put in this turbo, hell, you can probably reuse the T-25 water lines. The oil feed line is what youll really need, as the old one got bent all to hell as I pulled the t-25 off.
The turbo, note the polishing I took to it.
The install kit. The black pipe is the 1G j-pipe that I used.
Install:
1. Jack up the car and drain all coolant and oil. This will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.
2. Remove Driver side fan. Its simply four bolts and its plugged into a harness. This will give you more room to maneuver as you try to get some bolts out.
3. Remove downpipe from 02 housing. This was a pain in the ass.
4. Remove upper and lower heat shields. Simple.
5. Remove intake pipe, unplug MAF.
6. Take out your old 02 sensor. Mine was ####ed, so I replaced it with a new BOSCH unit from an OReillys parts store. They are fairly expensive. Taking out this 02 sensor was a MAJOR pain in the ass.
7. Now its time to remove the upper water line from the turbo. Youll only remove the rubber hosing. Its very simple.
8. Next, remove the lower coolant line. You will get sprayed with a ton of coolant, so be prepared to get soaked.
9. At this point, the turbo should have no water lines connected whatsoever. Now, you want to remove the oil return line. Its just two bolts on the underside of the turbo and two bolts to the oil pan.
10. Now, remove the old oil feed line from the oil filter assembly. It might be a hassle to get out, it was for me. I didnt disconnect the old oil feed line from the T-25, since I didnt need it, and it was a big pain in the ass to get off.
11. It should be time to pull the turbo out from the exhaust manifold. There are three bolts and what stud. This is hard as hell. You want to be careful that you dont mess anything up, but these bolts are hard to get out. Youll want to soak them in Liquid Wrench to get them off. I didnt have a breaker bar, so I utilized the good-old-use-your-biggest-wrench-possible-for-leverage-technique. After a ton of swearing and frustration, they finally came off.
12. Remove the lower intercooler pipe from the turbo.
13. Now, wiggle the turbo out. It should come out fairly easily, and you can go hook the t-25 up somewhere as your new hairdryer.
14. There, halfway done. The old turbo is out, and the new turbo will be prepped to put in. Place your new water lines and SS oil feed line onto the 14B. This is very easy to do. Just look at the t-25 and match the setup that the water lines and oil feed line is on it.
15. Remove the 02 housing and place it on the 14B. I reused the gasket.
16. Take the 14B and maneuver it up into place. The only new gasket I used was the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket. Tighten up the bolts and thread the stud.
17. Connect the SS oil feed line to the oil filter assembly.
18. Connect all respective coolant lines to their rubber hoses. You might do some bending and Magyvering, but its not too difficult.
19. Connect oil return line to the oil pan and to the turbo.
20. Put the new 02 sensor into the 02 housing. Once again, the 02 sensor was being a ####stick.
21. So, you spend 70 bucks on a j pipe. Shame on you.
You really dont need one. I took my LICP and took it off the intercooler. I then flipped it around, and routed it up to connect to the 1G J-pipe. VIOLA! It worked.
J-pipe connected.
LICP ran over the intake pipe. The fit is tight, however it works and I dont notice any ill-effect on cooling, power, or turbo efficiency.
22. Reconnect the intake pipe and MAF.
23. Reconnect the fan and heat shields.
24. Go through the car, make sure every bolt it tightened. You dont want an accident.
25. Refill the car with the respective amount of oil and coolant. You dont want to start your car without these.
26. Disconnect the spark, and crank the car a few times to get oil running through.
27. Reconnect the spark, and start the car. Ill admit it, I was nervous. It should start and idle fine. Youll have a ton of smoke at first, burning off all the liquid wrench and WD-40. The smoke will eventually go away, and the car should idle fine. Check for leaks, I didnt have any, and Im continually checking for leaks, I dont want a major debacle to happen.
28. Take the car for a spin, and see how it feels. Youre done. Congratulations.
Engine, with the 14B installed.
Another good engine shot with the 14B.
The Afterglow:
This install took about two days, about 3 hours each day. This is counting all the random runs to the parts store and food and drink breaks. You will be dirty, and you will have bloody knuckles. It was a fun time, and Im definitely satisfied with the outcome. Im keeping the boost low so far, and the car pulls like a raped ape at 10 PSI. It pulls so much harder than the t-25. Im still checking the car for random leaks and sounds, however, all seems OK the day after. This is definitely a great upgrade for all of those tuners on a budget. I can generally say that any 2G driver can add 50 HP and drop a second off of their E.T.s with this turbo. Not bad for spending 40 bucks.
Credits:
Special thanks to vfaq.com for the nice diagrams and instructions.
Special thanks to my buddies Mitchell and Klinton Truett, and Eli Erb for their help during the install.
Special thanks to all that I bugged with questions via AIM and private messaging, namely, nine5raptor, so cali eclipse, tevenor, and all those who I forgot to mention, your help has been greatly appreciated.
I decided to put the 14B on my 2G Spyder due to the fact that I got it for free, and I installed it for less than 40 bucks. Im sure youre wondering, how did I do that? Thats what I hope to explain to you through this write-up, how you can install a 14B/16G /20G for less than 40 bucks. You may not want to cheap out on some things like I did, but hell, I got over 100 CFMs for less than 40 bucks. Here is my write-up, and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Tools:
Basic Craftsman Tool Set
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Liquid Wrench (Youll need it)
Breaker Bar (Would be very HELPFUL, considering I didnt have one)
Install Kit:
I ordered my install kit from KrazyKorean off of DSMTuners.com, and it had a SS oil feed line, new water lines, and a new oil return line. I already had a 1G J-pipe, and I was determined to use it. I paid about 30 bucks for all of these items from KrazyKorean. I reused all my gaskets, except for the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, which I ordered from an OReillys parts store near me. They sell a very good Fel-Pro turbo gasket set if you need some gaskets for the install. This is all you need to put in this turbo, hell, you can probably reuse the T-25 water lines. The oil feed line is what youll really need, as the old one got bent all to hell as I pulled the t-25 off.
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The turbo, note the polishing I took to it.
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The install kit. The black pipe is the 1G j-pipe that I used.
Install:
1. Jack up the car and drain all coolant and oil. This will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.
2. Remove Driver side fan. Its simply four bolts and its plugged into a harness. This will give you more room to maneuver as you try to get some bolts out.
3. Remove downpipe from 02 housing. This was a pain in the ass.
4. Remove upper and lower heat shields. Simple.
5. Remove intake pipe, unplug MAF.
6. Take out your old 02 sensor. Mine was ####ed, so I replaced it with a new BOSCH unit from an OReillys parts store. They are fairly expensive. Taking out this 02 sensor was a MAJOR pain in the ass.
7. Now its time to remove the upper water line from the turbo. Youll only remove the rubber hosing. Its very simple.
8. Next, remove the lower coolant line. You will get sprayed with a ton of coolant, so be prepared to get soaked.
9. At this point, the turbo should have no water lines connected whatsoever. Now, you want to remove the oil return line. Its just two bolts on the underside of the turbo and two bolts to the oil pan.
10. Now, remove the old oil feed line from the oil filter assembly. It might be a hassle to get out, it was for me. I didnt disconnect the old oil feed line from the T-25, since I didnt need it, and it was a big pain in the ass to get off.
11. It should be time to pull the turbo out from the exhaust manifold. There are three bolts and what stud. This is hard as hell. You want to be careful that you dont mess anything up, but these bolts are hard to get out. Youll want to soak them in Liquid Wrench to get them off. I didnt have a breaker bar, so I utilized the good-old-use-your-biggest-wrench-possible-for-leverage-technique. After a ton of swearing and frustration, they finally came off.
12. Remove the lower intercooler pipe from the turbo.
13. Now, wiggle the turbo out. It should come out fairly easily, and you can go hook the t-25 up somewhere as your new hairdryer.
14. There, halfway done. The old turbo is out, and the new turbo will be prepped to put in. Place your new water lines and SS oil feed line onto the 14B. This is very easy to do. Just look at the t-25 and match the setup that the water lines and oil feed line is on it.
15. Remove the 02 housing and place it on the 14B. I reused the gasket.
16. Take the 14B and maneuver it up into place. The only new gasket I used was the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket. Tighten up the bolts and thread the stud.
17. Connect the SS oil feed line to the oil filter assembly.
18. Connect all respective coolant lines to their rubber hoses. You might do some bending and Magyvering, but its not too difficult.
19. Connect oil return line to the oil pan and to the turbo.
20. Put the new 02 sensor into the 02 housing. Once again, the 02 sensor was being a ####stick.
21. So, you spend 70 bucks on a j pipe. Shame on you.
You really dont need one. I took my LICP and took it off the intercooler. I then flipped it around, and routed it up to connect to the 1G J-pipe. VIOLA! It worked.
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J-pipe connected.
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LICP ran over the intake pipe. The fit is tight, however it works and I dont notice any ill-effect on cooling, power, or turbo efficiency.
22. Reconnect the intake pipe and MAF.
23. Reconnect the fan and heat shields.
24. Go through the car, make sure every bolt it tightened. You dont want an accident.
25. Refill the car with the respective amount of oil and coolant. You dont want to start your car without these.
26. Disconnect the spark, and crank the car a few times to get oil running through.
27. Reconnect the spark, and start the car. Ill admit it, I was nervous.
It should start and idle fine. Youll have a ton of smoke at first, burning off all the liquid wrench and WD-40. The smoke will eventually go away, and the car should idle fine. Check for leaks, I didnt have any, and Im continually checking for leaks, I dont want a major debacle to happen.28. Take the car for a spin, and see how it feels. Youre done. Congratulations.
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Engine, with the 14B installed.
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Another good engine shot with the 14B.
The Afterglow:
This install took about two days, about 3 hours each day. This is counting all the random runs to the parts store and food and drink breaks. You will be dirty, and you will have bloody knuckles. It was a fun time, and Im definitely satisfied with the outcome. Im keeping the boost low so far, and the car pulls like a raped ape at 10 PSI. It pulls so much harder than the t-25. Im still checking the car for random leaks and sounds, however, all seems OK the day after. This is definitely a great upgrade for all of those tuners on a budget. I can generally say that any 2G driver can add 50 HP and drop a second off of their E.T.s with this turbo. Not bad for spending 40 bucks.
Credits:
Special thanks to vfaq.com for the nice diagrams and instructions.
Special thanks to my buddies Mitchell and Klinton Truett, and Eli Erb for their help during the install.
Special thanks to all that I bugged with questions via AIM and private messaging, namely, nine5raptor, so cali eclipse, tevenor, and all those who I forgot to mention, your help has been greatly appreciated.
