I'm not familiar with the fitment issues on the stock piping, but I can say that I didn't have any trouble with my RS valve on a Dejon pipe.

I would guess that you are already aware of your options if you're looking to install it now before upgrading your UICP.

well I do know my options but I don't want to cut the adjustment screw on my bov or dent my hood. Should I just wait until I get the dejon piping? My stock bov is already leaking.

That's a tough call. I'd be a little wary of cutting the adjustment rod, and I tend to be pretty anal when it comes to irreversible mods that involve cutting (or especially denting ). If it were mine, I would probably hang in there until I could get a pipe that wouldn't require any additional modification. How you proceed is obviously up to you.

I am very anal about that stuff too. I think I will order the piping and wait until it comes to put the bov on. Its better to be patient than cutting or denting stuff up. Plus i'll feel better knowing I didn't have to dent up my car or cut my bov.

mjstruck said:

I am very anal about that stuff too. I think I will order the piping and wait until it comes to put the bov on. Its better to be patient than cutting or denting stuff up. Plus i'll feel better knowing I didn't have to dent up my car or cut my bov.

Click to expand...

Good idea. When I installed my Supra SMIC, my Greddy Type-S was hitting the hood. After a few times opening the hood and dropping the hood to shut, the BOV started leaking at the adjustment screw area. I am suprised that you have not experienced any leaking with your Greddy as of yet.

However, if it does start leaking for some reason around the adjustment screw, take an allen wrench and adjust the BOV so you do not experience surging. Next, take some JB Weld and cover the area with it. Let it sit for at least 36 hours, install it and do a boost leak test. You should not experience any more leaks. This is what I did. Do what you will.

You could cut the adjustment screw, but I also wouldn't recommend that.

DSMunknown said:

However, if it does start leaking for some reason around the adjustment screw, take an allen wrench and adjust the BOV so you do not experience surging. Next, take some JB Weld and cover the area with it. Let it sit for at least 36 hours, install it and do a boost leak test. You should not experience any more leaks. This is what I did. Do what you will.

Click to expand...

A better idea would be to just put pipe dope on the adjustment bolt threads to prevent any leaks as it isn't uncommon for the bolt to be the source of a leak. This way the BOV will still be adjustable. You should also be sealing the pressure/vacuum nipple as well.


Depending on how badly your hitting, I would probably just cut some of the adjustment bolt off. 99% of the time it is alot longer then you need as most people run it basically backed all the way out. If you do cut it, make sure you round of the corners on the bottom like factory with a grinding wheel.

daren_p said:

A better idea would be to just put pipe dope on the adjustment bolt threads to prevent any leaks as it isn't uncommon for the bolt to be the source of a leak. This way the BOV will still be adjustable. You should also be sealing the pressure/vacuum nipple as well.

Click to expand...

Wish I knew about this stuff beforehand...


http://www.herchem.com/products/thread_sealants.html
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/5...pipe-joint-compound-and-pipe-dope-673073.aspx

Just cut the adjustment screw, what's the big deal, when its set its set (full soft )? Even then you have to notch the hood though. Denting it isn't going to cut it, you need to cut on opening in the hood support for it to go through.