ACT 2600 or 2900. Make sure you measure crankshaft endplay before installing either unless you have a 6 bolt. A 2100 would handle your current power levels well, but if you decide to upgrade the turbo and add more boost, you'll need more clamping force. Just for reference, the 2100 is good to about 320 lb./ft. of torque so if you don't plan on going past that, it would also suit your needs.

ACT 2100 is good for you now ....but a 2600 might be in order for the future if you decide to higher in the torque numbers.

Well said Andy. I agree that a 2100 or similar from another company would be ample at this point. The 2600 will give you room to grow. As for the brand...you're going to find people who swear by each of them and people who say they're junk. I've been running an ACT 2600 for some time now. I like the pressure plate, but both me and my friend had the springs on the ACT clutch disc break and wedge between the plate and disc, not allowing for disengagement. I now use an Autozone disc and it works great.

2600lb because we all know you will most likely keep modding. Its a problem we all have

2600. Fullface if it's driven on the street and 6 puck if it's track only. Many will say that the clutch is stiff and a pain and yada yada yada. My 100lb sister doesn't have any problem with it. If you've never driven a car with a stiff clutch it'll take a little getting used to but after a couple days you won't even notice it. If you needed a 2900 you wouldn't be asking this question or any like it.

Hey thanks a lot for the info!! I'm thinking 2600 with a street disk to allow for more mods than the 2100 would allow for (which I hope to be able to afford during the life of this clutch) - and you're right, Jimmy Jr., not quite to the 2900 yet, but hey, maybe next time!

Of course having a ACT explode on me - I would say go with a spec
But as stated , opinions differ greatly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133330&highlight=act+explode

if you have to go ACT then go with the 2100. I would recommend something like a Spec Stage 2 or stage 2+. We have used that one on applications very similar to yours. The clutches hold up very well and the Stage 2 disk is designed for long life so you won't have to replace it as soon as you would with a regular organic disk. Pedal pressure is really nice as well.

best of luck to you.


Martin Ruiz

Two thumbs up for the Spec 2+.

Why doesn't anyone recommend the Centerforce Dual-Friction??

DGajre777 said:

Why doesn't anyone recommend the Centerforce Dual-Friction??

Click to expand...

I was wondering the same thing. Does anyone have experience with more than one of the listed clutches? I'd love for any input on the performance of a CFDF vs the Spec Stage 2+.

Thanks for the advice on what brand to get, prostreetdsmx1. Do you recommend a specific vendor (not that your being a vendor is a conflict of interest or anything)

I use a Spec Stage 2+ and it works fantastic (even though I'm not making more than ~225whp), but I have serious issues too. I blame the mechanic cause no one else seems to have such excessive chatter that literally bounces my ass out of the seat. It's so bad it actually created play in my transfercase/tranny/center diff. I haven't pinpointed the problem but I think its in the spider gears. I have a lot of slack now in my driveline.

Spec, nor other users, nor vendors on this site don't report much chatter at all with the stage 2+ so my case is probably isolated to a shitty mechanic.

I have the Center Force Dual friction clutch in my 91 FWD with probably an estimated 220 front whp, and it seems to work great for me. I remember reading something before about the CFDF clutch having about as much clamping force as an ACT 2600...anyone else know about this? Anyone else out their running close to 300AWHP on a CFDF clutch?

The CFDF's pressure plate is not a 2600 lbs like the ACT 2600. Last I checked it was closer to a 2100. Their friction disk is unique however which may be what you were talking about "having about as much clamping force as an ACT 2600".

This is great input, keep it coming!

SeeYaAWD said:

Thanks for the advice on what brand to get, prostreetdsmx1. Do you recommend a specific vendor (not that your being a vendor is a conflict of interest or anything)

Click to expand...

give us a shout bro. we can set you up.

This is from RRE. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

Advanced Clutch Technology

2600lb Extreme Pressure Plate with Full Face H-D Street (Organic) disc (includes factory plastic sleeved throw out bearing)

2100lb Full Face H-D Street (Organic) disc (includes factory plastic sleeved throw out bearing)

ACT clutches use either a 2100 lb or 2600lb pressure pate with a full face high friction organic disc. While there is no increased pedal effort for the 2100 lb clutch, you will need a big left leg for the 2600 lb unit. We like the 2100 lb clutch for stock cars and seldom raced 14 second 1/4 mile cars. It does not put up with much launching or overheating from abuse. The 2600 lb clutch is for guys bent on running 12's and faster. It is much more forgiving if abused but isn't magic. If you try hard enough you can kill it. The 2600 lb is stiff on your left leg, but has little or no chatter and is not grabby.

ACT parts are available separately but buy individual parts at your own risk. Most times when you kill a disc, the friction surface of the pressure plate will also be warped from the heat. ACT discs can be used with a Centerforce pressure plate if the pressure plate is in good condition.

Centerforce Dual-Friction, H-D Ball Bearing Pivot Clutch $ 395
For 89-99 Eclipse Turbo, AWD and FWD

This is the newer higher clamping load CF pressure plate (we tested it at 2500 lbs). CF is now using ball bearing pivots for the diaphragm for an easy pedal effort. The dual friction disc now has a larger friction surface. We recommend it highly for 13 second drag cars though we have run high 11's with it. While it is fine for going fast, it is perfectly streetable. Centerforce uses Marcel (wavy metal layer) between the layers of the clutch disc to make the engagement smoother.

If you are serious about drag racing and chasing a magic number, if you launch hard and often, get the ACT 2600. Excessive heat from repeated launches will kill the CFDF (and most other clutches). You will hear quite varied opinions about CFDF all over the internet. Some guys run fast with them forever, others have killed them in under 6 months. It is all up to you. If you make repeated launches and runs you will seriously shorten it's life. If you are disciplined enough to let things cool down between runs you will be fine. Just like overheating your brakes will give you no grip, the same thing happens with your clutch. Get it hot enough and you will turn the disc into kitty hair. The ACT 2600 has more clamp load, it won't slip as much and won't make as much heat. The Centerforce will slip a little more, but this can be safer. You choose your weak point...clutch or hard parts.

Price includes factory plastic sleeved throw out bearing to protect your transmission input shaft sleeve.

I'm aiming for about 320 whp and although the stock clutch is still in there (mods are sitting in my garage) I have an idea about the clutches and how they feel in DSMs. For that power level, your main choices are the CFDF, the ACT 2600, the Exedy Stage 2, and the Spec Stage 2. I would suggest either the exedy or the act because they make quality stuff. For many other cars spec is looked upon as having a shitty reputation. In fact, I can personally vouch for their stage 3 ceramic disc in my f-body being crap. I hear the organic discs are okay, but I have heard so many horror explosion stories I wouldn't get a spec clutch again. Exedy is an awesome company and they make quality products, but with 290 whp you will be pushing the limits of their stage 2. The CFDF is a good clutch... a lot of mustang people use them. That said I'd still get the ACT 2600 mainly because of its good reputation in the dsm community.

Ive had a RPS turbo clutch, ACT 2600lb, and a Spec stage 2. RPS was a good clutch. ACT great clutch for a over 300 hp awd DSM. Spec, didnt really care for. I was only making about 280hp and it started to slip. I would have to say anything over 300hp go with a ACT 2600lb. As for the Exedy, I know someone that said he would never get that clutch again.

I have put centerforce df in 4 cars 3 are dsms and they work great for street/strip use! I have made numerous launches in my current awd with no slipage and normal pedal feel. I was under the impression that an act 2600, or stronger, could actually encourage crankwalk on a 7 bolt motor so keep that in mind.

skinnykenny84 said:

...an act 2600, or stronger, could actually encourage crankwalk on a 7 bolt motor so keep that in mind.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this bit of advice (have a 7 bolt). Anyone else heard of this happening with the ACT or other clutches? Do you think it is even the clutch that causes the problem, or just inherent crankwalk happening and the clutch being blamed?

well its the added pressure of the pressure plate

I beleive thats why "andymoraitis" (whats up dude) was saying to measure the crankshaft end play first

go figure. i run a stock clutch on my 50 trimed gsx. ive been spinning it up pask 7k and hasnt slipped once yet. 13,000 miles so far on the clutch.