The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support STM Tuned

seafoam works! [merged]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cranky

Probationary Member
12
2
Nov 15, 2003
OhioUS
I have been using seafoam in heavy equipment engines for years and I have seen it make dramatic differences in performance and idle quality. I recently had a problem with low power from my 91 talon. It felt like the computer was removing timing. Normally what I do is find a secluded spot because you will smoke down your whole neighborhood. Start the engine and let it get up to opperating temp. I remove a vacum hose and put it in the can and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and suck the can dry. Shut off the engine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then start it back up and run it down the road, and run it hard. This will remove a substantial amount of carbon build up from the combustion chambers. :thumb:
 
I have no idea what chemicals are in it but you can get it at NAPA in a white and red can. It's supposed to be an engine cleaner. You can put it in the oil, in the gas tank and down the air intake.
 
You can also get Seafoam at Advance Auto and other auto parts stores.

Seafoam is a great product. You can buy it 2 different ways. In a spray can and in a pour style can. As he mentioned above, you can suck the stuff through your intake and then let it sit. It will smoke like heck as it's blowing all that old carbon out.
I've used it on other engines and it does work wonders.

The stuff is similiar to MCCC
 
I have also been wondering about this product. Because like said above, DSM's are just a bit tempermental. But i have heard many many good things about this stuff.
 
If you're sticking a 1/4" hose into a can, you WILL NOT hydrolock the motor, guaranteed.

The only way to hydrolock is by sticking the intake into a puddle or a pool or a bucket while the motor is running. I have squirted a hose into the throttle body of a four cylinder, and it didn't hydrolock.

It is VERY important that after you do any kind of process like this you need to change your oil. All kinds of shit is going to leak past the rings and contaminate it.
 
kpt4321 said:
If you're sticking a 1/4" hose into a can, you WILL NOT hydrolock the motor, guaranteed.

The only way to hydrolock is by sticking the intake into a puddle or a pool or a bucket while the motor is running. I have squirted a hose into the throttle body of a four cylinder, and it didn't hydrolock.

It is VERY important that after you do any kind of process like this you need to change your oil. All kinds of shit is going to leak past the rings and contaminate it.
That's like music to my ears to hear that kp.
I'll keep this cleaning method in mind when my 6bolt gets in and after a few k miles.
:)
 
I just used it on mine and I removed a line from the intake (after the turbo) and just reved the engine high enough that there was still vacum reading on the gauge and it sucked it fairly slowly but it definatly made a difference. The car runs like it did when I bought it.
 
As I stated above, I've used it on several engines, including my GSX
I also used it in a b18c5(type R motor) motor that saw track duty every week.
It always worked fine for me and I never had a problem.

As far as hydrolocking, do as kpt stated. You're not pouring the entire can in, all at once. You're sucking a little at a time through a vacuum hose. Then you let it sit.
I've got a can of it right here. It also states that you can pour a little through the spark plug holes and let it sit.(sounds just like the process for MCCC). I would think you should vacuum out the excess in the cylinders just like the MCCC(just my opinion).

Personally, I've only used it through the vacuum. I've never used it in the gas or the crankcase.

A few things the can states:
Use through carburetor or vacuum line, use in oil. Use in gas or diesel.
Use in injector cleaning machines
use in all engines in all seasons. 2 cycle 4 cycle diesels. cars trucks boats..........

100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline engines.......oxygen sensor safe
cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon...
removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
cures hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
helps pass emissions tests. EPA Registered.


No warnings on the can wit the exception of swallowing it :laugh:

That's just a part of what the can states. Just let me know if you want more off the can or a pic.
 
so during this 15 min sprint through the neighborhood to the local interstate, you are belching out a thick smokescreen?

I just want to know, should i try this, if my 2 neighbors down the road (who are both state troopers) would find this sudden influx of toxic smoke a) interesting, b) illegal, or c) normal (for me)?
 
my neighbors never bi*** about it...it goes away fast and it doesnt smoke much after its through..it burns right up...i always use it...it did wonders for my 350 nova
 
Another way to avoid the attention drawing smoke :D is to do it at night.
 
ohhhhh, at night! they would never expect a night attack. and since i am only 800 miles away from an oil change i think i will give it a try.

Is there something else that the average person should know that might be second hand to the more experienced dsmers might take for granted?

Just connect to the vacume line, run at 2500 rpm till it is gone, take a sprint for a few, then an oil change?
 
Don't forget: After it's all gone, turn the engine off and let it set for 10-15 minutes(just follow the cans directions). Then take it out and try your new fangled 007 smoke screen :D

Seafoam also has it in a spray form called Deep Creep. That works well also. You can take off the TB and spray all around the intake mani. This stuff is a little harder to find though.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out
 
what vacuum hose should be used? a picture would help alot. i am going to try this also.
thanks alot for the tips
-kyle
 
The best stuff i have found to clean out your engine and get rid of lifter knock and crud on pistons and such is called Mopar Combustion Cleaner. There are many different ways you could use it but what i do is just take off my intercooler hose that connects to the throttle body and it will try to die but just have someone else keep it at a low idle, and just spray it in there, it will smoke a lot and try real hard to die, but use the whole can which will take a while and then let it sit for lil while, 15 min or so, and then start it up and let it idle for a few then go drive it around the block then go change the oil. I had bad lifter knock before and now i only have it slightly when its cold for the first minute ot so.
 
I'm at work right now but when I get home, I'll try to remember to see which hose I used. I usesd one that was closest to the TB. That way you should get a more even distribution through the intake mani and the cylinders.
I'll see if I can take a pic
 
I have done this except I used auto transmission fluid. I even used the Valvoline high milage stuff! haha I also used a gang valve though so it would control the flow. You can get them at walmart in the fish department.
 
I used the vacuum hose between the TB and the sensor on the intake mani. It's the vacuum hose directly in the middle of the pic. Mine is a 2g. This hose runs to the BOV on mine.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0238.JPG
    DSCF0238.JPG
    65.8 KB · Views: 11,651
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top