This year I promised my g/f I would actually tell her what I want for Christmas. Every year I end up returning all the useless crap she gets me for things for my car. So, while having lunch at Black Angus I wrote down the part # for the Aeromotive AFPR that I wanted (13109) along with a "B&M liquid filled FPG" . Are there better ones then the B&M? I've allways thought the liquid ones were the better of the Air/liquid options.

Ps. I've never seen the back of a FPG, will I need to buy a 6AN fitting for the gauge to mount on the AFPR?

Thanks! Scott

scottsee said:

This year I promised my g/f I would actually tell her what I want for Christmas. Every year I end up returning all the useless crap she gets me for things for my car. So, while having lunch at Black Angus I wrote down the part # for the Aeromotive AFPR that I wanted (13109) along with a "B&M liquid filled FPG" . Are there better ones then the B&M? I've allways thought the liquid ones were the better of the Air/liquid options.

Ps. I've never seen the back of a FPG, will I need to buy a 6AN fitting for the gauge to mount on the AFPR?

Thanks! Scott

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No, no extra fittings will be required. Most fprs come with an 1/8" npt port to screw your pressure gauge directly into. Liquid filled gauges are better for environments with vibrations, the liquid helps to stabalize the pointer/movement to prevent less wear and make the gauge easier to read. From time to time you need to vent the gauge to atmosphere by removing the little plug in the top of the gauge & then putt it back in as temp changes will allow pressure to build up inside the gauge case and cause your reading to be inaccurate. As far as the b&m gauge goes, they are all basically the same as far as I know. Autometer also has one but its probably made by the same company. Basically their a $5 crap gauge but because its for the automotive industry they screw you.

Edit: was just looking at your profile, I think you need to update that thing are you still on the stock t25 turbo? If so I would put that $$$ towards something else.

fuel injector clinic has a NOS liquid filled gauge for like 12 dollars. haha i just wanted to say NOS!.....

dont forget to tell her to buy the fuel rail fitting or youll end up waiting a few more days for it to arrive like me.

it would really help to update your mod list. im assuming your have an upgraded turbo and fuel pump if you want that. if not then your better off her buying you a 3" downpipe or prothane motor mounts. just saying something around the same prices range.

yeah, shame on me. I need to update that thing.

Rember you also need an install kit, or atleast the fuel rail fittings if you putting together you own kit

yeah, I didn't want to completely overwhelm her!! I'll take care of the fittings and mounting hardware.

Yeah, I'm still rocking the T-25. I'm trying to find somone to trade a 1g head/intake/tb for a 14b. No luck so far!

scottsee said:

Yeah, I'm still rocking the T-25. I'm trying to find somone to trade a 1g head/intake/tb for a 14b. No luck so far!

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Are you only planning on running a 14b? Are you sure you really need a fpr? An fpr is only required if you are using the 255 lph fuel pump. You can use the 190 pump without one and it will support 400 hp. Just don't want you wasting money that could be better put to use elsewhere

The Aeromotive unit works great with just one major flaw as I found out on my recent installation of it. The adjustment screw leaks pressure because it's not npt thread and will not seal itself, make sure you back out the adjustment screw/rod and apply thread sealant to it during the process of setting the base pressure. This is very important, boost and vacuum leaks aside, the regulator will will not be able to properly maintain 1:1 ratio. For those of you who have had this installed for a while, pressurize the intake and spray soapy water on the lock nut to make sure it isn't leaking.

oldman said:

The Aromotive unit works great with just one major flaw as I found out on my recent installation of it. The adjustment screw leaks pressure because it's not npt thread and will not seal itself, make sure you back out the adjustment screw/rod and apply thread sealant to it during the process of setting the base pressure. This is very important, boost and vacuum leaks aside, the regulator will will not be able to properly maintain 1:1 ratio. For those of you who have had this installed for a while, pressurize the intake and spray soapy water on the lock nut to make sure it isn't leaking.

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i will have to check mine. i just started the car up fri the 2nd (after setting up on jackstands for 11 months) and have been noticing that it does not pull down as much as i would expect. i set it at 43.5 with the vac hose off, and when i put the vac hose on it only pulls down to 39. i was under the impression that it should pull down 1psi for every 2" vac which at roughly 18 vac (according to boost gauge that is tied into the same line) i should be at 34-36psi. correct me if this is wrong.

jim

FORMONTOYA said:

i set it at 43.5 with the vac hose off, and when i put the vac hose on it only pulls down to 39. i was under the impression that it should pull down 1psi for every 2" vac which at roughly 18 vac (according to boost gauge that is tied into the same line) i should be at 34-36psi. correct me if this is wrong.

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That would be correct. I'm not ready to say that everyone of them will leak but with DSM90AWD having the same exact problem, both being brand new, I'm suspecting it to be a manufacturering issue and everyone should double check. BTW my old AEM fpr didn't leak, it came with npt threading.

thanks, i have been scratching my head trying to figure out why it was not pulling down as expected. i will definatly check this out tonight.


jim

FORMONTOYA said:

thanks, i have been scratching my head trying to figure out why it was not pulling down as expected. i will definatly check this out tonight.

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You're welcome. Anyone who read this and decides to check, please post back results. If there is a trend of it leaking, I'll make a sticky about this so everyone would know.

I know mine wasn't leaking enough to hear anything under a boost leak test, but I will check it when I get the car back in the spring . Just as a note one of my buddies with this fpr had a leak at the adjusting knob threads.

I wouldn't stress about Aeromotive air leakage. Direct from the Aeromotive fpr manual

"NOTE: Testing the enclosed regulator by applying air pressure or vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand-held pump will yield poor results, due to the slight air leakage through the adjustment screw threads. This minute leakage, which is typical of all adjustable fuel pressure regulators, does not, in any way, affect the performance of the regulator"


Scottee: Unless B&M makes a gauge i'm not aware of, the b&m gauge is not liquid filled. This Marshall gauge here is a cheap and effective liquid filled one http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?products_id=1596

daren_p said:

I know mine wasn't leaking enough to hear anything under a boost leak test, but I will check it when I get the car back in the spring .

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Can you spell AWD.

Just as a note one of my buddies with this fpr had a leak at the adjusting knob threads.

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Was it an Aeromotive unit as well? Apologies to scottsee for thread jacking but I think this is important and will be beneficial to you as well as everyone else who own this unit.

oldman said:

Can you spell AWD.


Was it an Aromotive unit as well? Apologies to scottsee for thread jacking but I think this is important and will be beneficial to you as well as everyone else who own this unit.

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Yes I can spell awd , They use a tonn of salt here in the winters & I hate rust Plus about 3" of ground clearance and ZR tires aren't the best in the snow

Yes we both have the aeromotive unit, 13109 I believe, the -6an one that eveyone uses. As posted above I read about the small leak that is possible around the adjusting threads and didn't bother to check it out.

ImportEvolution said:

NOTE: Testing the enclosed regulator by applying air pressure or vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand-held pump will yield poor results, due to the slight air leakage through the adjustment screw threads.

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What results are they referring to, the ability to hold intake pressure or the ability to maintain 1:1 intake:fuel pressure? How will testing it in a running car vs. static testing yield better results in either case?

" This minute leakage, which is typical of all adjustable fuel pressure regulators, does not, in any way, affect the performance of the regulator"

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With all due respect, how can they possibly claim that a leak like that will not effect the proper functioning of the fpr "in any way"? My vacuum went from -19.5 inHG to just about -21 inHG before and after the leak, I wouldn't exactly call that a small leak. If you can hear it hiss during a pressure test it's not a small leak, it was definitely bubbling as much as my old leaky TB shaft seals. The statement about all FPRs will leak is not true, like I posted before, my AEM didn't leak at all. One thing I failed to do is to observe the intake and fuel pressure relations before and after the sealing. Jim, when you test for leaks, pressurize the fuel system using the fuel pump check connector at the same time you pressurize the intake, record the rising rate. If in fact you find it to be leaking, do the same after you fix the leak so we can get an idea how this leak affects the fpr, if any at all.

I'm not advocating that everyone should stop buying Aeromotive fpr, in fact, I like it better than my old AEM because the AEM unit would not hold any pressure in the system after the engine is turned off, I'm simply saying check it and apply thread sealant if it's leaking, it's a pretty easy fix really.

ImportEvolution said:

I wouldn't stress about Aeromotive air leakage. Direct from the Aeromotive fpr manual

"NOTE: Testing the enclosed regulator by applying air pressure or vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand-held pump will yield poor results, due to the slight air leakage through the adjustment screw threads. This minute leakage, which is typical of all adjustable fuel pressure regulators, does not, in any way, affect the performance of the regulator"

Click to expand...

oldman said:

Was it an Aromotive unit as well? Apologies to scottsee for thread jacking but I think this is important and will be beneficial to you as well as everyone else who own this unit.

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This to me indicates that Aeromotive is aware of said leak and the FPR still achieves its 1 to 1 ratio.

UncleBens said:

This to me indicates that Aeromotive is aware of said leak and the FPR still achieves its 1 to 1 ratio.

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Maybe and maybe not, I'm certainly not going to just take the manufacturer's word for it on something as important as a fpr. Even if what they're claiming is true, a leak is still a leak and it should be fixed, especially when it takes only 10 mins.

UncleBens said:

This to me indicates that Aeromotive is aware of said leak and the FPR still achieves its 1 to 1 ratio.

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Kinda like when Accufab said all their TB shaft failures were not the result of its poor design (they then redesign them and say it wasn't because the old design sucked) WTF

To add, both my boost inlet nipple and top adjustment screw leaked enough to draw attention to that area. I definitely felt a rush of air (i.e. not some pin hole bubble leak), and there is no way that a mechanical AFPR is going to get a 1:1 ratio setup like this.

Simple fix was to add a spot of teflon tape to seal the threads, which am suprised was not suggested by Aeromotive in the first place

I also had a leak on mine, so I just used a Oring so when its tightned down it seals. havent heard/ seen it leak since doing that while pressure testing. I also had to use a sealant on the vacuum port as well. I also have a in-car FP gauge so next time I start up my car I will remove the oring and take a before and after reading both at vacuum and boost since I am bling with the PHW Greddys.
http://home.comcast.net/~utspoolup/gauges1.JPG

I havent started the car for a few days so I guess its about time I go do it here soon. Too bad we got 6 inchs of snow the last few hours. SUCK BALLS with a quick spooling FWD. Thank god for the gutless $400 92 sundance beatermobile.

Now in regards to Scottsee's post. Make sure you take in concideration your gauge when mounting the FPR. I did not have the gauge on (or even have it, come think about it) when i mounted it and made the lines (which I used the earls pro 350 nylon coated line so it does not cut threw everything back there) so when I went to attached it and where I positioned everything, the gauge would hit that dam nut on the shock tower of a 2g, a quick drive to the local hose specialty shop and I had my 45* 1/8" NPT fitting to offset it. Also jegs sells some cheap liquid filled gauges with a few different face colors.
http://home.comcast.net/~utspoolup/FPR1.JPG

daren_p said:

Are you only planning on running a 14b? Are you sure you really need a fpr? An fpr is only required if you are using the 255 lph fuel pump. You can use the 190 pump without one and it will support 400 hp. Just don't want you wasting money that could be better put to use elsewhere

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I allready have the 255HP and rewire kit. I definitely need an Aeromotive 13109

i did the check last night and in fact did have the minutest (sp?) of leaks, i mean i had to sit there for a few seconds before the slightest bubble appeared. i went ahead and put some thread sealer on as suggested. i have dsmlink so i fired the pump to set base (43.5) and then ate some dinner. came back out after 30 min or so and started the car, no difference, it still only pulls down to 39 (when i expect to see 34-36) with 18" vac. i do know i have a leak with the tb gaskets as my upper pipe also replaces the tb elbow, but i would not expect it to cause this much grief as the tb is on the opposite end of the intake and my boost gage shows 18" vac and is tied into the same line as the fpr. also it makes no difference if i go through the fps or tap off the mani.

still scratching my head...

jim

another thing, my fpr does not hold pressure after being shut off. it will immediately drop to about 20psi when shut off and after about an hour it will be at 0psi. i thought that was something to do with my 255 pump. it does cause grief as the car need a few more spins to get the pressure up before it fires. any suggestions as to what to do would be greatly appreciated. i did not get a Chance to check the rate if rise as i did not get back on line until this morning to read replies.

jim