Assembly of the bottom end starts monday when I should receive my Clevite bearings. Wish me luck and for reference this is my first build, here's a price rundown so far.

Engine Machine Work: O’Reilly’s Machine Shop
Bore, Hone, Clean & Degrease, Deck - $170.49
Polish Crank, Machine Flywheel, Install ARP Rod Bolts, Machine Rods, Install 2g Pistons, Balance Rotating Assembly - $462
Valve Job, Surface, Hone/Install New Guides, Install SS Valves, Misc. Helicoils, Seals - $365.64

Bottom End Parts:
ITM 2g Pistons - $145.00
Mitsubishi Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - $42.00
ARP Rod Bolts - $45.00
ARP Head Studs - $20.00
Clevite 77 Rod Bearings - $21.00
Clevite 77 Main Bearings - $52.00
ITM Oil Pump Assembly - $149.95
New Water Pump - $29.50

Topend Parts:
Used Revised Lifters - $60
Stainless Steal Valves & Bronze Guides - $170
Exhaust Manifold Studs, Washers, Nuts - $20

Gaskets and Seals:
ITM Rear Main Seal - $6.09
Mitsu MLS Head Gasket - $73.29
Mitsu Timing Cover Gaskets - $6.97
Mitsu Timing Belt - $53.18
Mitsu Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley - $19.76
Mitsu Timing Belt Idler Pulley - $24.63
Mitsu Timing Belt Adjuster - $61.22
Mitsu (4)Oil Cooler Crush Washers - $5.40

Misc. Parts:
Prothane Motor Mounts - $79.98
(New)Centerforce DF Clutch Kit & Mitsu TOB- $260
JRC FMIC - $215
Intercooler Pipes, Couplers, T-Bolt Clamps - $160
Welding on Intercooler Pipes - $100
Newly Rebuild T04B V-Trim $500
Turbo Drain Kit $79

More

NOICE!!! Looks good Mike. I cant wait until its running.

####ing saweeet! How did you get arp headstuds for 20$!?!

Very nice keep us updated.

ITSME4G63 said:

####ing saweeet! How did you get arp headstuds for 20$!?!

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Local DSM'er on a local forum, decided he was gonna sell his car so he didnt need them anymore. He was talking about just giving them away, but I offered up $20 for him to drop them at my house. Done and done Theyre brand new too.

Bottom end is done Clearences on the bearings were all .002, (loose side of standard spec) Some of the top rings needed a touch of the file and all the rings are on the very tight side of standard spec. Enjoy

Why oh why did I not paint my block! Damnit that looks sweet! Where did you get that alternator bracket/setup? I have the crappy one where the bolt pushes itself out when you are tightening the belt.

Thanks I painted mine for the sole reason of it looking so rusty after I got it back from the machine shop. The Alt. bracket is the stock setup, everything is just clean, very very clean.

Mike,

NICE!!!!!!

Where did you purchase the rod and main bearings? I havent found them anywhere that cheap, maybe I just over looked them. I am as well starting a rebuild but the money is getting tight for me at the time being and I wanted to purchase a few parts now that are pretty cheap than when I get some money in hopeful with the next month I will just have may eagle rods to purchase.

This will also be my first motor build you are anyone else have any advice that they can share.

Bearings were bought from ExtremePsi.com, you buy $75 worth of stuff and get free shipping Get yourself a good manual with torque specs and detailed pictures and instructions. I have both, a chiltons and a mitsubishi service manual. If your on a budget like me get this things you absolutely need for the specific area your working on. Unlesss you find a hot deal on things you know your gonna buy anyways as I did, via lifters and head studs. Thanks and good luck

Looks sweet! What's the current status?

Omly thing I see that I would shy away from is these two parts:

ITM Oil Pump Assembly - $149.95: I'd be worried about it lasting...do you know anyone else using this oil pump?

New Water Pump - $29.50 What kind of a waterpump did you get?

Anyway, looks great, good luck with the whole deal!

How do you like your machine shop?

Havent heard of anyone running the "ITM" oil pump, but its the brand of pistons I went with so I hope all goes well with that. Water pump is brand new, bought at O'Reilly's with my friends discount. I like my machine shop, they're a little slow on getting my cylinder head done, but everything on my block was done and in spec when I assembled it. I should have the cylinder head back next week with new shiny SS valves and bronze guides. Dropin is happening sometime next week. Only thing I need to buy still is a new turbo, exhaust manifold studs, and a coupler.

Lookin good Mike. Looks like I'm selling my cobra and if that one dudes gsx is in decent shape, then I'll be buying it and starting a build on it. When you looked at it, how was the interior and such..and the outside, if you odnt mind me asking, you can pm me if you want that way I dont jack your thread.

Cody

Got the head back today at the price of $365.64. Machine shop did an excellent job, SS valves looked excellent. I bled the "revised" lifters and installed them, installed the cams, threw on the intake manifold. Loc-Tited the ARP's in, copper sprayed the Mitsu MLS headgasket and torqued that baby down. Pics turned out like crap, but I'll have more to come in the next few days when I drop the motor in.

looks great

I'm in the process of beginning my first engine rebuild and if you could, give me your personal opinion.

After having the machine shop do their work, do you suggest a first time engine builder have the shop install the internals [i.e., rods to crank, crank to block etc] or should I do them myself? I consider myself to be a very good mechanic and can definitely follow the shop manual closely.

any opinions? I'm just worried that i'm going to spend 3k on a built motor and reassemble it wrong

dude, i love your color choice on your block finally someone besides me went with the orange block

blcknspo0ln said:

looks great

I'm in the process of beginning my first engine rebuild and if you could, give me your personal opinion.

After having the machine shop do their work, do you suggest a first time engine builder have the shop install the internals [i.e., rods to crank, crank to block etc] or should I do them myself? I consider myself to be a very good mechanic and can definitely follow the shop manual closely.

any opinions? I'm just worried that i'm going to spend 3k on a built motor and reassemble it wrong

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This was also my first rebuild. If you have the extra money and no extra time let them do it. If your on a budget with spare time, do it yourself. A good torque wrench, set of feeler gauges, and some plasti-gauge and you can set everything up yourself. Read the manual time and time again.

peregrine said:

dude, i love your color choice on your block finally someone besides me went with the orange block

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My block is red not orange.

I dropped my motor in 2 days ago and the tranny, t-case, driveshaft, and exhaust went back on today. I'll have pics tomorrow.

Mike1992 said:

My block is red not orange.

I dropped my motor in 2 days ago and the tranny, t-case, driveshaft, and exhaust went back on today. I'll have pics tomorrow.

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eh. looks orange to me but im old still looks good though

Lookin good so far ... what turbo will that beast be running?

1fast97gsx said:

Lookin good so far ... what turbo will that beast be running?

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Most likely a sleeper 20g from FP. I'm on a budget. I called them a few weeks ago about how much it would cost to slip a 20g wheel into a TD05H style compressor cover, exactly like there 16g in with an oil cooled only center section for $429. This turbo will run me $480 without exhaust housing or wastegate actuator. I have a heavily ported 6cm exhaust housing waiting, with a fresh port job and I can get my buddies actuator cheap.

peregrine said:

dude, i love your color choice on your block finally someone besides me went with the orange block

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got the orange block too.. motor build looks really good.

I got everything that I had installed. Now I just need to come up with the money to get the new turbo and a few other things.

Looks good, keep up the good work.