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Comfort and traction?

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Race94

20+ Year Contributor
1,151
0
Jan 6, 2003
Puerto_Rico
I want to get good comfort from my car since i ride it everyday and currently it is lowered with sportlines and illuminas in the front and the ride is bouncy and sucks.

I wouldn't mind going back to stock springs if it meant ride quality

I plan to put in either tokico blues up front ot KYB GR-2's in the front and AGX or illuminas in the back since the premise for adjustable shocks is soft front and hard rear.

I plan to put in the stock springs if i need to maintain ride quality, what other springs are available to offer good ride quality?
tein s-tech?
 
Sportlines are your problem. The blues are quite harsh so you wouldn't want those in the front if a "soft" setting is your goal. Stick w/ the adjustable illuminas and go w/ some prokits or comparable spring that doesn't slam the hell outta your car.
 
The "Blues" and the illuminas do ride like shit, I actually miss my old stock suspension. I hear the Eibach Pro Kit springs are best for our cars. But I think im gonna save up for some Tein Basics and those tein tech springs over the winter.
 
Race94 said:
I want to get good comfort from my car since i ride it everyday and currently it is lowered with sportlines and illuminas in the front and the ride is bouncy and sucks.

I wouldn't mind going back to stock springs if it meant ride quality

I plan to put in either tokico blues up front ot KYB GR-2's in the front and AGX or illuminas in the back since the premise for adjustable shocks is soft front and hard rear.

I plan to put in the stock springs if i need to maintain ride quality, what other springs are available to offer good ride quality?
tein s-tech?

If want traction, then get sticker and wider tires. If you want more comfort, then put your stock springs on your Illuminas.
If you want a lowered stance still, then thread the shock piston pushrod, and get two grade 8 bolts, and bolt those ontop of the shock tower on the pushrod, and use the lower bolt as a ride height lowering bolt, and top bolt as a locking bolt.
(If this doesn't make any sense to you, PM me. This is a method of controlling/adjusting the static ride height of the vehicle, by shortening the suspension travel on the shock pushrod.) This way, you can have a lowered ride without the harsh ride, and still not hit the bump-stops.
 
Should i keep my front illuminas and my rear GR-2's and put tein s-tech springs on?
Will those ride better than the sportlines wich lower more than advertised too.

SHould i put in the stock if i want comfort?
I mean the s-tech spring only lowers 1.3" but i don't know about spring rate or anything.

What do you guys think>?
 
UCSLugRacerX said:
If you want a lowered stance still, then thread the shock piston pushrod, and get two grade 8 bolts, and bolt those ontop of the shock tower on the pushrod, and use the lower bolt as a ride height lowering bolt, and top bolt as a locking bolt.
(If this doesn't make any sense to you, PM me. This is a method of controlling/adjusting the static ride height of the vehicle, by shortening the suspension travel on the shock pushrod.) This way, you can have a lowered ride without the harsh ride, and still not hit the bump-stops.

Are you actually suggesting that this guy lower his car by having the shock's piston head jammed up against the top of the inside of the shock? And if you are, then where, exactly, is all the extra shock shaft supposed to be ... sticking up through two holes that you'll next suggest that he cut in his hood?

To lower the car, you must shorten the springs or move the perch & hat farther apart. The hat can go no farther up. So the options are to move the perch down or get shorter springs. The idea that you can yank the car down using shock shafts that have topped out is one of the sillier ideas this week.

- Jtoby

ps. another error is that this crazy idea will make the ride more harsh because of the preload on the shocks ... a packed-down springs is effectively stiffer than a non-packed-down spring ... in autocrossing, this is associated with a guy named Daddio
 
It's been done before on ITA racecars. (Even on the TRD MR2 MK1 racecar.) Here's what else I left out of the description:
There are a couple of way of doing this. Although it requires a bit of fabrication.
The shock piston pushrod is further threaded, and two bolts and washer which are sitting between the top-hat, and the shock tower bracket.
Below the shock tower bracket, the shock pushrod is further threaded.

(Although not too much—so that the threads do not pass through the shock tube assembly, thus destroying the seals upon full compression or bottoming out. Although a bump stop with the same height (if not greater), as the length of the exposed threads, further reduces the tendency for the pushrod threads to enter past the shock seals.)

Below the shock tower bracket, two locking bolts (which lock toward each other), push snugly against the bottom of the shock tower bracket. Between the bottom two locking bolts and the shock tower bracket is the washer which pushed against the rubber grommets inside of the shock tower bracket assembly.

Yes, depending on the springs that is used, this increases the ramp-rate of the spring, (or rather amplifies a progressive spring.)

The shock tube assembly itself is not touched.
In order to lower the two top locking bolts, a spring compressor should be used, (because the spring will offer considerable resistance to compression.)

Now Jtoby, the problem with lowering a car with shortened springs, where the spring does not extend from the bottom of the shock, to the top of the shock, when the is at shock full rebound (or extension), is that upon a hard rebound proceeding bump-travel, is that the kinetic energy from the springs compression will shoot the shock piston pushrod upward PAST the limit of where the spring contacts BOTH the top and the bottom of the shock. (This can have disruptive effects to the chassis during steady state turning.)
Yes, this can be band-aided by the using shocks with a slower and more resistant rebound, but does not solve the problem.


Here is a crude diagram I whipped up.
 

Attachments

  • Shockidea2.bmp
    281.9 KB · Views: 319
Arg! Sorry for the lack of legibility of the words within the diagram.
 
jtmcinder said:
a packed-down springs is effectively stiffer than a non-packed-down spring ... in autocrossing, this is associated with a guy named Daddio

Any nobody uses "stiffer springs" because of ill-effects? People aim at making the compression rate stiffer ALL THE TIME.
Also, the method I mentioned allows for a gradual tuning of increased ramped spring rate.
And lose the insults Jtoby. It doesn't suit your name well. :rolleyes:
 
jtmcinder said:
The idea that you can yank the car down using shock shafts that have topped out is one of the sillier ideas this week.

Have you ever removed a stock spring from a shock before? Have you ever installed a stock spring onto an OEM replacement shock? A spring compressor is used. And when the spring compressor has the spring compressed at the needed position, the top locking bolt holds that spring in a compressed state. And NO I'm not "yanking the car down," but rather the method further compresses the spring.
(Perhaps more than 95% of cars require a spring compressor to install OEM springs. ALL of which use a top locking bolt to "yank the car down.")

And yes, somtimes the pushrod must be trimmed at the top, so as to not touch the hood. In the rear although, no trimming is needed.

-Andrew
 
RoasT BeeF said:
You may argue all you want, but dont come in here acting all high and mighty looking for a fight. Thats just childish.

Jtoby probably knows more than you anyway. ;)

Werd... Seems like you're always trying to "top" Jtoby or something... get's old quick man, give it a rest.
 
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