2) run the line out the bottom of the trunk, over the rear axle, and to the front of the car. I used thicker wire tiers than what was provided, although im sure the ones provided would work, and i wire tied it to the fuel lines on the right side of the car all the way to the front. then i ran it up to the top. sorry, no pics of the line running to the front, but im sure you can find the fuel lines.

3) Mount the smart box. i used a block of wood, and put velcro sticky pads on the battery and block of wood and velcroed it to the battery. then i ran giant wire tiers around the block and battery to make sure it was on.

4) Tap the fuel rail for your fuel supply. i have a 99, so i have and used the test port on the end of the rail. just unscrew the cap, and using a shrader(sp?) valve remover(99 cents at autozone) remove the schrader valve in the test port. then screw on the longer of the 3 lines you have remaining on the testport. some people say fuel will leak out a lot, but i only had a tiny bit come out towards the end of while i was screwing it on. tighten all lines screwed on with a wrench. then run the nitrous line from the back(i assume you knew to use the 6ft line for that) and fuel line from the fuel rail, and run them to the smart box and hook them up to the fuel in and nitrous in ports. be sure the nitrous line goes to the nitrous port, and visa versa.

5) Tap your intake. this is fairly easy. just drill a 9/16 hole about 6 inches from the throttle body. mines a little closer so i could reach it to tighten it. my AEM CAI was to thin to use the threader provided. after you drill the hole, get all the shavings out of the intake, and put the nozzle in the hole and secure it with the bulk head.(little black bolt thing aroung the nozzle) then run the remaining 2 2ft lines from the nitrous and fuel out ports to the corresponding ports on the nozzle. this is where you put the jets to designate the shot you desire. start out with the smallest shot and work from there. the 55 shot uses the nitrous jet that has a 32 on the side, and a fuel jet that has a 17 on the side. make sure you make the nozzle sit at a low enough angle so that it doesnt hit the hood. i had a slight problem with it, just the line touching it, thus the electrical tape on the line.

6) Now for the fun part!! the wiring. this isnt all that bad, just a little intimidating, if you dont know what your doing. but remember, electrical tape any electrical connections. there are 3 wires coming out of the box, a red, a white, and a black. first the easy one. the black wire is the ground. just feed the black wire into a red stud ring that looks like it goes around the battery, clamp it down with some pliers, electrical tape it, and bolt it to a ground. i used the ground for the throttle plate.

7) the white wire. the white wire is the TPS(Throttle Postition Sensor) wire, which tells the smart box when you are at wide open throttle. there are 3 wires on the TPS, but the one i needed, and ive heard its the one for everyone, is the Red/Brown wire. you may want to use a volt meter to make sure. mine threw .6v at no throttle and around 4v at full throttle. good enough. i used the red crimper that came with it and crimped it on the red/brown wire, and then connected the white wire to it with a red male plug thats provided. once again, clamp it down with pliars, and electrical tape it.

8) Mount the arming switch. To do this you need to drill a 1/2 hole where ever you plan on mounting it. Then push the switch through, put the red arming cover on it, and screw on the metal ring.

please ignore my corroded pedels, im gonna get some new ones soon

9) The firewall. Unless you have a system, or something where there is a grommeted hole in your firewall, you will need to drill one like me. i drilled the hole, and ran both the red wire from the box, and a section of the extra red wire through the hole. i made a custom grommet out of a fuel line from an RC plane and some electrical tape. Using the plugs provided, find a combonation to connect the red wire from the box to the unfused end of the arming switch, and connect the fused wire of the arming switch to the extra red wire. clamp and electrical tape.

the hole i drilled is right to the right of the steering colum

10) Connect to the power source. use a red stud ring to connect the extra red wire to the battery. clamp and electrical tape the connection. connect it to the postitive + battery terminal.

11) calibrate your system. This is the only part of the instruction manual that is actually detailed. do what it says. turn the key to the on postition without starting it. they say push the button and the light should be red, but my light was red without pushing it. go to the drivers seat and push the gas pedal all the way down for 10 seconds. go back and the light should be flashing red to green to off. now its learned your voltage curve. now go back to the drivers seat, turn the key to off, then turn it back to the on position without starting the car. the light on the box should be a solid green now. the box is ready to go. if you press the gas all the way down, you should be able to hear the solonoids clicking when you hit WOT.

You are ready to go! go around and tighten all braided line connections with a wrench. make sure you tighten the lind to the nitrous bottle, because when i first opened my bottle, nitrous, and snow flakes, started popping out of the nozzle. a 1/4 of a turn of the screw on connection made the difference of a leak and no leak. now open your bottle, and go for a drive. when you find a clear spot with a high speed limit, arm your system. now start off slowly depressing the gas pedel, all the way to WOT. when you hit WOT, you should feel a mighty surge. this surge is quite less noticable with more people in your car. start out with the 55 shot, and if you feel comfortable, and crave more power, you can move it up from there.

good luck, PM me if you have any further questions

Happy Tuning,

Chris

just a little disclaimer, perform this at your own risk. nitrous can be lethal to the engine if used or installed wrong, and i am not responsible for anything that happens to your car. thanks