ok the pictures are going to be posted in order...so when you see Picture 1...that is picture one and 2 is next one uploaded...here ya go...did it tonightHave a general idea of where you are going to place the unit…..I am putting it on my steering column on top of my turbo timerFirst off you need to find a place to pull all your hoses and connectors through. I found that he steering column boot works well. PICTURE 1You need to tee the boost pressure host for the unit fromt the fuel pressure solenoid which is here ( PICTURE2 So it looks like this PICTURE3 Then run the hose through the firewall to the back of the unit and don’t forget the filter included. This is how I put my boost controller...

Here is the simple install of a MAFT for blow-thru use. When using DSMlink the white and purple wire are not used. So cut them shorter and tape the ends off (I tucked the 2 wires under the MAFT when I mounted it to the firewall).All you need to do is plug the connector from the translator into the stock MAS plug, make sure the pink wire from the translator lines up with the red wire on the stock MAS plug.The other plug goes to the actual GM MAS.Pull your stock MAS plug from the stock location back to where it comes out of the main engine harness. Then point it towards the firewall. I am going to attach pics to show where to mount the MAFT and how to run the wires so they are all tucked away nicely.

To start an unmodified 5-speed 2nd generation (95-99) Eclipse, the clutch pedal must first be fully depressed. This is accomplished through the use of a “Clutch Pedal Position Switch” which lets the ECU know when this has happened. The pedal is depressed, the switch goes from a closed to an open position, and the car is able to start.This is but a small safety feature to ensure the engine is NOT started while in gear. However, most turbocharged Eclipses undoubtedly have a turbo timer installed. This means that most are in neutral when turned off and thus still in neutral when started again.This mod is going to re-wire this safety feature to a toggle switch that will add an extra security measure to your car against theft. We...

All right, many have asked this, and I've done it on my last 3 cars, two of which were dsms, a 95 2gnt, and a 99 gsx. So here ya go...Pick up (2) 20' lengths of 4-ga cable from your local stereo shop. The better the cable you get, the higher strand count and better conductivity. Color is your choice; I used stinger and lightning audio (silver and blue respectively). Also pick up a 4 or 8 pack of 4 ga ring terminals from your local stereo shop. The crimp on kind... be sure you have the tools to properly crimp these suckers on. Pick up either a circuit breaker or an ANL style fuse holder with the biggest fuse they have. I used a 200amp in my last car. It’s your choice, but pick up some new battery terminals as well. Some...

HKS Type 1 U.S Spec Turbo Timer InstallTo install this turbo timer you must splice into the main ignition harness. It's best to buy a wiring harness for the timer because it will make installation easier along with removal. I bought my harness for $15 from Slow Boy Racing. The timer must also be wired up to the parking brake switch since the parking brake has to be set for the timer to function. The HKS Type 1 also utilizes functions like speed and rpm display along with 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, 0-60mph, and 60ft estimates. To do this the timer needs a speed and RPM signal which can be retrieved by splicing into the ECU. After all that you ground it and hook everything up and you're good to go. I did this install on a 1990...

Fuel pump rewire kit available at DSMotorsport.1) First thing I did was, disconnecting the battery. 2) Then, position the new relay were you want it. I placed it at the bottom of the fuel tank cover plate, under the back seat. I secured it to one of the bolts. 3) Run the new power feed line (red cable) from the engine bay to the location of the new relay. Underneath the battery plate, there are cables going into the car. I went through the rubber booth. The wire will come from behind the carpet, under the glove compartment. Then I ran it under the bottom door trim all the way to the back. 4) Connect the new power feed line to the positive battery connection. 5) Cut the new power line, after making sure the right length. 6)...

We all know an EGT gauge is necessary when you start changing boost levels and fuel trims. It's one of the cheapest forms of insurance we've got. This little gauge allows us to measure the temperature of the exhaust gases leaving the engine via the exhaust manifold.Installation is pretty straight forward. You need to tap the exhaust manifold, screw in the probe, run the wiring inside the car, and wire up your gauge. I took some pics of the process below:Here's a shot of the exhaust manifold before we got started. We removed the heat shield and got marked our number 1 runner.

Looking around at various articles and posts, I see everyone pretty much has the wiring of relays and solenoids down.But nearly everyone of them has a very important part of an inductive load type circuit missing...the flyback protection diode.Even most companies seem to forget about these when mechanical switches are used(and they help a lot with reliabilty).When you energized a coil(such as the ones in relays or solenoids) current through the coil creates potential energy.When this current is switch off, this potential energy has to goes somewhere.When a mechanical (toggle or pushbutton type) or a pressure switch(such as a Hobbs) is used ,a pretty nasty arc is created across the switch contacts, which can degrade the contacts...

I got this off of www.2gnt.com , so full credit goes to them....:rolleyes:Introduction I am writing this Help file, to try and help all you people out there with SAFCs (Super Air Flow Converter from A’PEXi). I know how hard and frustrating it is trying to get help on something, and I hope that this answers most of your questions. This is all based on my experience, and what I have learned from others. If you have some comments to make, or some information tips to add, please feel free to submit them.Quick Background Information The SAFC is a computer that modifies the MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) signal to the PCM (a.k.a. ECU) of the car. This is really useful because it can "lie" to the car’s PCM about how...

Air/Fuel gauge Connection1. Remove the driver's side access panel from the center console. There is one Phillips screw and one push-in plastic screw that holds the access panel on.2. There are four plastic connectors plugged into the ECU, directing a myriad of wires going to and returning from the control sensors and relays. Connector 1 has 26 terminals, connector 2 has 16 terminals, connector 3 has 12 terminals, and connector 4 has 22 terminals. The terminal numbers are shown below. (Look at the ECU with your head under the steering column, with your left ear pointing to the floor. The connectors are from left to right, connectors 1, 2, 3, and 4.)2G Turbo DSM ECU Terminal NumbersConnector 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12...

I'm new to writing tech articles, so I'll give this one my best shot. Mods: I'm not sure if this goes in the body mods forum, move it if you'd like). Onto the good stuff...Things you'll need:- Two 2'x4' boards of 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). You can use 5/8" too, but you might as well use the thicker density. Plus, the dimensions for this box come out perfect for the JL sub I was putting in.- Cheap carpet from home depot. I bought a 4'x6' sheet for $6. I only covered the top portion of the box, but I had enough left over to cover it all.- Elmers wood glue.- Silicone sealant (in the caulking bottle) as well as a caulking gun.- Staple Gun with staples.- Drill with 1 small bit and phillips head.- A...

The rear oxygen sensor on the exhaust for the 2Gs may look intimidating to remove/install, but in reality i actually quite easy. Take a look at this step-by-step guide.1.) jack up the car and get a huge wrench that will fit the oxygen sensor. PREP yourself. 2.) Remove the oxygen sensor. This may take A LOT of effort, but believe me, it comes off. Just sit there and apply a lot of force, pulsating help. 3.) You'll see the o2 wire runs up through the underbody and a little plastic thing will be there protecting it. Yank the plastic part off so that you should now see a hole underneath your car. 4.) Open your driver-side door. Roll the seat all the way back. Remove the driver-side SIDE CONSOLE plastic piece so that you can...

This test will help with a no start condition. There are several sensors that are responsible for supplying a complete circuit to allow battery voltage to make it to the coil pack. These sensors and electrical components are, but not limited to, Vehicle speed sensor, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, ASD Relay, PCM/ECU, and several other components.This is a portion of a test from the Chrysler Diagnostic Powertrain manual. It is not complete because some tests require the use of the mopar hand held diagnostic computer. I have added some steps where the condition created by the dealer computer can be recreated with it.Checking the coil: Disconnect plug wires one and four from the coil pack. Measure the...

This is a test to determine why the starter motor will not engage. This type of condition is called a no crank condition. It is different from a no start condition in that the starter motor does not engage the flywheel/torque convertor/flexplate at all. A no start condition means the starter engages and the crankshaft spins but the engine will not fire up and run.Does the starter make any noise when you attempt to start the vehicle? Also try and have someone else start the car and you hold/touch the starter to see if it is engaging. If you don't feel anything you may have either a bad ground or incomplete circuit from the battery to the starter. If the starter clicks then you may have a bad starter, starter solenoid or siezed...

This isn't DSM specific, but as DSMs are getting older, these problems are becoming more common.Difficulty Level(1-10, 1=easy): 5Required tools:test light multimeter (optional)1. Be sure the ignition lock is in the "OFF" position, all lights are off, and all doors are closed. Be sure that nothing is plugged into the lighter, drawing power.2. Remove the negative battery terminal (if your car has an underhood light, disconnect it).3a. Place the test light between the battery and the cable. The light should not illuminate. If it does, you have a draw somewhere. To test your connection, leave the test light hooked up, and open a door. The light should get very bright, this is normal. Or the meter should...

Keep in mind that this does not apply directly to DSMs but to modern cars in general. I figured since I haven't contributed much at all to this site I'd type this up for anyone about to do this theirselves.First of all, a bad alternator will show up during load tests as low voltage & a current output problem. even when the regulater is bypassed & full voltage is applied to the alternator field, charging voltage & current will not be up to specifications.Alternator removalBefore unbolting the alternator, disconnect the battery to prevent damage to parts if wires are shorted. Most alternators are attached to the front of the engine with two or three bolts. Loosen the bolts & remove the belt. Then remove the...

This article will cover the isntalling of the power meter. I won't get into the features just the install.The install is very simple. You need a power,ground,and you must tap into the vehicle speed sensor wire(after the governer if you have one). On a 2g this wire#86 on the ECU.Here are the pin-outs for the 1G and 2G's:http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-1G.html http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.htmlIt's just that simple.Another questions I get PM'd alot about is the drivetrain loss setting. I used 0 as it is shown in the manual for all turbo cars.A copy of the instruction manual can be found here: http://www.rs-competition.ru/blitz/pdf/Blitz_Powemeter_i-D_manual.pdf