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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
My AEM C2DI decided it didn't want to work anymore. The C2DI was wired in without the factory Ignitor causing the car not to run when using the bypass plug. In order to fix this I decided to wire the Ignitor into the bypass plug.It was pretty simple if you know how to solder and crimp wires and what not.The C2DI uses a 12 PIN Deutsch connector with the following pin outs:Ign1 Input - White Ign2 Input - Green IgnOn +12v - Red Ign3 Input - Yellow Ign4 Input - Violet IgnOn +12v - Red + Coil 2 & 4 - Pink - Coil 4 - Gray - Coil 3 - Blue + Coil 1 & 3 - Tan - Coil 2 - Orange - Coil 1 - BrownThe Mitsubishi Ignitor (Power transistor) uses the following pin outs:OC2 - Blue/Black IB2 - Tan/Red GND - Black TACH...
Alright guys. Well it seems like this is a common problem for many DSMers. You get a nice aftermarket alarm, and of course you have your nice $200 turbo timer you decided to put on your pretty much stock DSM with t25 that is water and oil cooled so turbo timing is not even really necessary and vented BOV and open downpipe.You manage to install both correctly, but there is a problem. You can't arm your alarm while timing down because chaos happens after the countdown of the turbo timer. Also it even unlocks your doors after countdown. What is going on?!?I've helped installed several aftermarket alarms on a few 2Gs, and I always search for this one really old post from another forum. I'm installing another one today, and I had to...
This is a write up on how to wire in a AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor in a 2g and log it using dsmlink V3. Since V3 is installed on your car its possible to remove your MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor and in its place wire in a MAP sensor to log actual boost.If your still running the 2g intake manifold you'll also need to get the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter, which will let you mount the MAP sensor in place of the MDP. It can be purchased here --> RRE 2g MDP/MAP sensor adapter and to order it you need to call them, their online ordering system sucks but they do answer their phones.Heres what the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter looks like installed on a 2g intake manifold with a AEM MAP sensor mounted to it.With that being...
This is a write up on how to wire in a GM IAT (intake air temp) sensor in a 2g and logging it using dsmlink V3. If you want to make the switch to run a SD (speed density) setup but aren't sure how to wire in your IAT your in the right place. Since you'll also need to connect a MAP sensor to go SD you'll also want to read Wiring & Logging a AEM 3.5bar MAP Sensor if you haven't already.First you'll need to get a GM IAT sensor, harness, and a 3/8" NPT bung and have it welded into a UICP. ECMTuning sells it as a kit direct from their site, just click on this link. GM IAT sensor w/pigtail and 3/8 bungINSTALLATIONOnce you get the bung welded onto your UICP thread the sensor into it and tighten it down with a wrench, then...
Alright, i just wired my cd player in my car and i figured id let everyone know how to basically hard wire your cd player in your car. First off, take out your old stock radio and cut the connectors off from the car. Look at the connectors before you cut them off, you will see a few wires go to the same port in the connector, all of these wires after you cut them, tie them together with each other. These two sets are your front speakers. Your constant power from the car is a solid blue wire. Use a volt meter to find your power wires and if you cant find a ground, make your own. The Speaker Color Code as ive found in my 90 talon tsi is as follows: Black-Red stripe and White-Red stripe = Front Right Speaker. Yellow-Red stripe and...
This site helped me hook up every gauge I had. Even if you don't have an autometer gauge other brands are very similar. Just wanted to post this up for everyone it took me a while to come across it. Hope this helps. Auto Meter Instructions
1G N/T throttle bodies have a larger bore than 2G throttle bodies. The difficulty in swapping these into a 2G is that the 1G TB uses a 3-wire TPS with a separate idle switch, while the 2G uses a 4-wire TPS with the ECU performing the idle switch commands.The 1G electrical idle switch [edited for accuracy] senses when the throttle plate closes telling the ECU to increase the idle speed under certain engine loads, including AC on, but it also is used when the driver lifts off the throttle completely, preventing the engine from suddenly air starving and abruptly slowing down the car.The 2G has this function built into the TPS, taking the input from the 4th wire of the TPS and signaling the ECU to activate the ICS motor to compensate...
Noticed in the forums that this question comes up quite often. So, here's the wiring colors for both a 1g and 2g that you need for the following Turbo Timers:Greddy Blitz HKS ========1g Wire Colors and Location:12v - WHITE at Ignition Harness IGNITION - BLACK/WHITE at Ignition Harness ACCESSORY - BLUE/BLACK at Ignition Harness========2g Wire Colors and Location12v - WHITE at Ignition Harness IGNITION 1 - BLACK/WHITE at Ignition Harness IGNITION 2 - BLUE/BLACK at Ignition Harness ACCESSORY - BLUE at Ignition Harness========Now, for the Turbo Timer Wire Colors...Greddy:RED - 12v GREEN - Ignition BLUE - Accessory BLACK - GroundHKS:RED - 12v GREEN - Ignition 1 YELLOW - Ignition...
INTRO I did the install with an Apex'i TT on a 95 Talon TSi so those with Greddy's, it should be similar.Follow Turbo Timer install as per instructions that came with the timer, if you cant do this part, call an alarm shop or someone else how to do this. Also READ THIS WHOLE ENTIRE THING AND MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND IT ALL AND COULD LOCATE EVERYTHING DECRIBED IN THIS ARTICLE BEFORE GOING DOWN THERE AND CUTTING UP WIRES AND SPLICING THINGS IN THE WRONG PLACES I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR STUPIDITYFun hacking part Most of this is from vFaq, so now on the driver side, under the fusebox down there and there should be a few relays and 3 or so harnesses.We are going to be playing with harnesses B-49 and B-66. If its easier...
Well, I apologize for the lack of pictures in this tutorial, but my digital camera was out of battery.This article is useful for those of us who feel we've already spent far too much money on a turbo timer itself, and don't want to tack on an additional $20 for a plug-n-play wiring harness. This article is for 2g dsm's, but 1g guys may also have luck with it.Your turbo timer (depending on the make and model; the one I used was the Apexi pen-style tt) should have three major wires connected to it: a 12v+ power source, an accessory power wire, and an ignition wire. First, identify these wires on your tt by reading the instruction booklet's diagrams (or if you have no choice, guess...red is typically 12v+, blue is usually acc...
Turbo Timer Hardwire Install Instructions on a 1GAFirst of all, I recommend the hardwire method of install over paying money for a harness, unless of course you absolutely hate wiring. This walkthrough will work for 90% of turbo timers out there, as they generally all use the same base wire color.What you will need:- Turbo Timer - Razor blade or exacto-knife - Scissors or wire-strippers - Electrical Tape - extra 18 gauge wire (aprox. 4 feet) - extra 22 gauge wire (aprox. 2 feet) - Zip Ties1. On the lower dash (under the steering wheel), pop off the square bolt covers and remove the 4 bolts holding the lower dash on. You don't have to do this next step, but its easier if you remove the hood release lever by...
I specified 1GB because I have an 8 pin ignition harness plug, while some have a 6 pin. Check your ignition harness wiring before you attempt this install, as I am not responsible if you damage yourself, your turbo timer, or your car. This install was performed on a '92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD using a Blitz FATT Type-X turbo timer.Tools needed:- Wire strippers/cutters/crimpers - Volt meter/power finder - 16 gauge wire - 16 gauge wire taps - 16 gauge wire crimp connectors - Phillips and flathead screwdriver - Electrical tape - Razor blade or scissorsDisassembly:1). Begin by removing the 4 screws holding the lower steering column on. Remove the lower steering column.2). Remove the 3 screws holding the upper...
This is a popular mod thats an old throw back to the muscle car days. There are many reasons to relocate the battery in your DSM. Moving the battery to the passenger side rear can help offset the weight of the driver for you road race guys. The main reason I chose to move the battery was to free up some space in the engine bay. The increased battery box size also allowd me to switch to an Optima Red Top battery. This increase in battery capacity allows me to crank that sucker at 20 degrees all day long.Here is the list of the parts that I used for the install: (All parts were purchased from Jegs)Optima Red Top Battery Group 34 753-9002-002 $179.99 Jegs Sealed Aluminum Battery...
Vehicle : 1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-RLED CONVERSION PART 1 "FROM SUPER BRIGHT LEDS"Reg bulbs194 = 270 MA x3 1156 = 2.10 Amps x6 1157 = 2.10 Amps x6 27mm Festoon 0.100 MA x326.31 Total Bulb AmpsL.E.D's194 = 160 MA x3 1156 15 SMD = 350 MA x2 1156 26 SMD = 470 MA x2 1156 3x2 = 260 MA x2 1157 26 SMD = 250 MA x6 27mm Festoon .055 MA x34.30 AmpsTHE REMOVED BULBS "BIG AMP DROP"BULBS ON THE LEFT VS LED'S ON THE RIGHT "PARKING LIGHTS"TWO BULBS AND FOUR LEDSALL BRAKE LED'sBOTH DOORS AND DOME GOT THEM TOOFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ARE EXTREMELY BRIGHTFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ONLY, NO FOGS!!!!!!!Invoice from Led Conversion Part 1Youtube video of my car after the install cause alot of people on a SQ...
First is to make sure you have slack because the engine likes to move in all sorts of directions and wires expand and contract with temperature. Then I like to strip the wires about a half inch from the ends. Don’t twist them up yet! Get your other end and push the frayed ends into each other then twist them together! Oh and before this step put shrink tube on the wire. Or you can use electrical tape but it’s ugly and will unravel over time. After twisting them together, use your soldering iron to heat the wire ends up and add solder! Now cover with shrink tube and shrink it with heat. Now you have a proper good looking connection.
Just about every thread that you search will tell you to get bulb 74 for your little Toshiba V-2 sockets for your gauge cluster.This is not the correct bulb size. Do not waste your time buying the 74 bulb.A 74 bulb will fit VERY tightly into the socket, so tight that it will expand/swell the socket to the point that you can't even reinstall it back into the cluster. You could theoretically expand the hole in the gauge cluster or dremel the Toshiba V-2 socket so that there is less material, but why even bother with that when you can get the correct bulb in the first place.If you need to replace a gauge cluster bulb, make sure you purchase the 2723 bulb. This bulb fits perfectly into the Toshiba V-2 socket and installs just like the...
*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************This is the ENGINE CONTROL harness. If you want information on the ENGINE COMPARTMENT harness, see: The 1990 Engine COMPARTMENT Wiring Harness.As we all know, the 1990 model year had many quirks to it when compared to the later model 1Gs. Because this was a single (and the first) year of the Eclipse/Talon/Laser trio...
*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************Consider this part two of The 1990 Engine Control Wiring Harness; this article covers the remaining electrical connections in the 1990 2.0L engine compartment as well as the handful of connectors that run to the interior on the driver side. For reference, the main diagram below is as viewed from the front of the vehicle; the...
This is for those of you who are having problems with your tail lights after an Eclipse conversion.Due to the way the Talon's lighting was set-up from the factory, its is possible to have your tail lights illuminate just like the EDM Eclipses. This article will explain how to just that, as well as a slight alteration to the EDM lighting.Tools Necessary: Wire Cutters/Crimpers Butt Connectors Pliers Electrical Tape Phillips Screwdriver A pair (both sides) of harnesses from a 1G containing two dual-filament bulbs. A pair of 2G Talon tail light harnesses (a few people try to use the Eclipse harnesses which is where problems arise)Here is a diagram of the stock Talon harness:In case you are having problems...
This article is for the connector located on the radiator / condensor fan or for the harness side.For the unfortunate souls who find what a pain it is to disassemble, I am providing tips and cutaway pictures to see how the locks work, in case one can't afford messing up this connector. I used these connectors for a custom harness adpater to fit the 1G CAS into my 97 GSX engine harness.Although, I can't say for sure if all these style connectors are like this but, I pulled one off a 1996 Eclipse GS and another off a 1995 Talon TSI AWD.So here is the 4 pin connector. First remove the housing which keeps all the locks in place. I am talking about the pink plastic piece shown, take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry up on...
My starter went out on me. I had a good battery but the car would not crank at all. When I would tap the starter it would crank over a few times then stop. So I knew the starter was bad at that point.These pics were taken when Installing the new starter, but for the sake of the write up I will post pics so that it shows steps for removal.Tools Needed: 10mm socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, 2 or 3" Socket extension. Small hands and a colorful vocabulary are helpful but not necessary. :)The basic removal procedure is Remove the battery, battery box, and battery tray. remove the two 14mm mounting bolts from the transmission bell housing. Disconnect the electrical connections at the starter, and yank it out.Step one ...
Ever had your car parked somewhere with the top down, and it starts raining suddenly and you dont have your keys handy? Or just dont feel like going into the house to find the keys but you have to put the top up for the night?The convertible top motors and convertible ECU always get power from the battery. The only thing keeping it all from working without the key in the ignition is the top up/down button. When you take the key out the 12v power source to the top up/down button loses power so when you put the switch the signal never gets sent to the converible ECU. Solution: run a 12v "always on" aka battery power source to the switch, and you can put your top up or down with or without the key.A convenient "always on" power...
Finally got myself a 98 Spyder after way too many years of DSMs. One thing I love to play with is wiring.Spyder tops will only go up and down while the car is not moving. Some convertibles out there will let you do it at any speed, or some will have a regulator at a certain speed (below 15mph, for example). The day I bought the car I was lowering the top at a light, and the friggin thing turned green while I was in the middle of it and the top wouldnt move just from the car rolling foward when I got off the brake (hill). So that has to go.Also if you push the top open or close button, all 4 windows will go down (the convertible ECU always tries to roll all the windows down before it puts the top up or down). Now with this mod if...
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